Michelle has already addressed this very well, but I thought I'd add my two cents.
I agree with you entirely that some vetivers smell really good and others are gag-worthy. I have tried vetivers that ran the gamut from actually almost floral, to grassy/green, to grassy/earthy, to earthy/dirt, to earthy/smoky, to pretty much straight-up smoke. The Salter cream you mentioned is the worst one, IMO. Smells like a swamp fire to me.
Differences are based quite a bit on what type of vetiver and the soil/rainfall/etc conditions where it is grown and how it is processed, along with other added scents, as Michelle said.
Having said all that, I have also discovered that different noses perceive scents differently. I have tried two quality vetiver shaving soaps that I thought smelled kind of smoky. When I asked my wife and my son to smell them, they disagreed. The first of these was B&M's Vetiver, Heather, and Clary Sage, which to my nose had a floral top over a campfire bottom, but to the other members of my family smelled like a nice floral scent. Even when I told them to think about smoke and smell it again, they could not detect the smoke at all. I found this baffling. Recently I received a sample of another quality soap scented mostly with vetiver. To my nose it was quite smoky, but to my wife and son, it did not smell like smoke. If I asked them to concentrate hard on smoke, they admitted perhaps a touch of smoke. This was in a scent that smelled MOSTLY like smoke to me.
So I submit to you that, while it is certainly true that there is a wide variety of scents that are called "vetiver," it appears that there is also a wide variety of ways in which the human nose interprets said smells. Maybe your sense of smell and mine are fairly closely aligned.
Thanks to you, and Michelle, for your responses.
The next question on my mind is which vetivers I would like, and which I would dislike. I am intrigued by CRSW and Mike's vetivers, but at this point, trying either sounds like a gamble. Are there any good vetiver soaps that are similar to Fine Fresh Vetiver aftershave, and not similar to Cyril R. Salter?
@Claudel Xerxes and others:
Barrister & Mann has announced that it will have no more production runs of their Vetyver Santal, so you may want to stock up.
They're having a one-day sale on 12/16. More info here: http://us7.campaign-archive2.com/?u=2f5c007ccabd7876e48860c02&id=6b089640d4
Henri et Victoria bergamot-vetiver.
I like the soap performance, one of the best. The smell is a little tame on this soap but I like it a lot.
Marc
I have PannaCrema Vetiver and I'm pretty happy with it.
You have to try ttffc-fougere,spring fern,henry et victoria-fougere and beaver woodright-philips fougere!The 6 I own and use listed by fragerance preference:
Saponificio Varesino: Aromatic Fern
Martin De Candre Fougere
Wholly Kaw: Fougère Bouquet
WSP Rustic Shaving Soap: Fougere Noire
Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements - Deja Fouger The Obsessive Soap Perfectionist (OSP): Fougere
No particular order:
Guerlain Jicky EDT
Yves Saint Laurent Jazz
Houbigant Fougère Royale
L'Occitane Vétiver is one of my favorites as well. Unfortunately it is discontinued. I am holding my last 100 spritz from the bottle for special times.