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A Little Advice Please.

So, I've been going at the DE shave for about 7 months now. I'd like to think my technique has improved significantly and am realistic enough to realize it has a ways to go before I settle on something "I call my own". That being said, I'm looking for some advice on either a new razor or technique to help move the process along. Trial and error can be an uncomfortable process. My beard is coarse, and thick enough to make an ape jealous, but it comes with a sensitivity, especially on the neck. I have tried to do my homework and read as many threads and forums as I could find on the subject of DE shaving.

My current regiment includes Taylor of Old Bond pre-shave oil and shave cream. I typically use a Muehle R89. I do the typical three pass shave (which turns into 5 or 6 passes in some areas) and some of the j-hooking, diagonal strokes, and buffing in the neck and chin areas. I've tried long strokes, short, overlapping, slow, medium... etc. For most days I have settled on slow and short and seem to get the best results. The irritation of constantly going over the same areas tends to produce more razor burn and weapers than I would prefer (though it should be noted I tended to get the same with cartridges as well). I try to make it a point to use no pressure, but sometimes it takes a little on some of the rough spots.

Now the point... I was thinking perhaps the R89 is too mild. I tried a R41 but the close blade to skin contact seems to make the razor burn way worse with far more weapers.... though it does shave incredibly close. I was thinking perhaps a Merkur slant (opinion seems to be a matter of preference... kind of a love/hate) or wondered if anybody had any experience with something like the Executive Shave Braveheart. I don't mind spending some money, but I have to keep it in reason... a $200 Feather or ATT probably isn't in the foreseeable future. I am open to other suggestions. Or maybe it still is technique?

As a last note, i continue to try new razor blade combinations and shaving products... some with more success than others. I do get DFS and BBS results, just with a lot of irritation. I have found that nobody I know seems to share my fascination with shaving so I thought I would turn to the experts. Thanks.
 
I am familiar with the R89 if only because it is the same as my "go to" R106, but with a different handle. I too tried the R41 but it did not buy me anything. I probably do the same 6 or so passes for BBS in some areas but have been lucky to avoid severe irritation or razor burn.
Some others I have tried are the long-handle Perfecto from Amazon, the Turkish YUMA (cheap travel DE), and a few Weishis. Though I keep going back to the R106, I did get marginally better results with a Merkur long-handle 39C. It is under $40 now and worth trying. I too have used TOBS with pre-shave (AoS). Eventually I tried Arko lathered in a vintage mug, and that has been my mainstay. I won't say if such a slick soap is better or worse for everybody, just that it has its own slickness that may help bring different results with the same or less effort for some people.
I do not see what you do for blades or lathering. I've found Perma-Sharp and PolSilver SI to be good balance between sharpness and smoothness. Face lathering can cause irritation with a rough brush; I either mug-lather or bowl-lather.
 

captp

Pretty Pink Fairy Princess.
First off Welcome to B&B. Good to have you here

For well under $100 you can get a Merkur Futur which goes from a fairly mild setting of 3 to an almost fear inducing 6+. I use mine at about 5 to 5.5 with no problem. You can eventually dial in your preference and also make adjustments for different blades.
 
If you want to try an aggressive razor but not spend a lot, get the Matador Toro Mastiff (aggressive version).
It has very good build quality and shaves great. The handle alone is worth what they want for the entire razor.
 
Welcome to the club. Glad to have you aboard. My favorite DE razor is the ATT S1 slant. It is very comfortable and efficient to use, but is pretty expensive. You might also read up on some of the SE and Injector threads to learn about excellent razors that would probably suit you very well, but are inexpensive.
 
Hello and welcome. Great to have you here on B&B. Wander on over to the Hall of Fame and introduce yourself.
 
Try concentrating on your lather more, that got me over the hump as far as shave quality and irritation. I found a open comb razor is more comfortable and efficient for my face. Keep at it, you'll find a solution.
 
This was in response to Alex2363... thought I replied with quote... guess not.

So far I'm still in the trial phase. I got a slew of sample packs and am basically working my way through them. I'm actually OCD enough that I'm keeping a log of how each Make and Model fares. It seems the blades with a moderate sharpness seem to work the best. For example, the Crystal and Personna blades did a decent enough job while the Feather, while it cut easily, was so abrasive it took days to recover. Any duller than say a Derby (a relative "sharpness" scale of course) and it catches way to much and goes the opposite for irritation. The Muehle Rasurkultur was akin to waxing my face with a razor. I've gone through about 10 brands now and I have a bunch more. I have Astras, Wilkinsons, Gillettes, in the immediate line up.
 
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Try concentrating on your lather more, that got me over the hump as far as shave quality and irritation. I found a open comb razor is more comfortable and efficient for my face. Keep at it, you'll find a solution.

I'll admit, my lather is somewhat lacking. I use an Edwin Jager Fine Badger Hair brush and one of the hand thrown lather bowls from West Coast Shave. I will pay more attention to it and see if I can get consistent results.
 
Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements "Symmetry" open comb razor- $29. Nice weight and knurling on this razor. Then, try face lathering. I used to pooh pooh the face lathering comments and suggestions until I actually tried and worked on it. I've been getting a lot less irritation since. I think because the lather really gets up into the spaces between your whiskers as you whip it up, thereby providing more protection on the first pass. The only thing is it'll just take a little practice to get the consistency right with a different method. Welcome and best of luck.
 
It might also help to dial back on the passes. First eliminate irritation. Then work on getting your shaves closer.
 
Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements "Symmetry" open comb razor- $29. Nice weight and knurling on this razor. Then, try face lathering. I used to pooh pooh the face lathering comments and suggestions until I actually tried and worked on it. I've been getting a lot less irritation since. I think because the lather really gets up into the spaces between your whiskers as you whip it up, thereby providing more protection on the first pass. The only thing is it'll just take a little practice to get the consistency right with a different method. Welcome and best of luck.

Looked up the Phoenix Artisan site... Looks like a great razor, especially for the price. Reviews were solid positive. Never heard of them before, so thanks a lot for the suggestion. I definitely will be trying it. Looks like I will be working the lathering technique as well... hopefully the combination will be a home run.

Thanks to you and everyone else.
 
I would say try an adjustable razor that way you can tune the aggressiveness to what you need. I would also say to be sure your lathers are slick and cushioning to make sure that you get the most protection during a shave. For me lather is one of the most important parts of an irritation free shave. My recommendation is a Gillette Slim adjustable or maybe a Merkur Progress, but I have never tried a Progress.

Welcome to B&B!
 

luvmysuper

My elbows leak
Staff member
Don't spend the money on another razor till you can shave with the one you have without irritation.
The R89 is an absolutely fine razor, and while not touted as an aggressive beast, it certainly isn't in the mild camp either.
I think we are too quick to suggest someone just starting out jump to a "more aggressive" razor when the problem is seldom the razor.

Don't get me wrong, if you want another razor, or want a change, or like the styling of something else, that's fine. But going to a more aggressive razor to end irritation makes as much sense to me as buying a tank instead of a Chevy because you keep denting the door on the shopping cart rack.

The fact that you are getting irritation could result from several different things, but the last possibility would be the razor you are using.
Blades certainly are a factor and you have to find some that work well for you. Lather is a big issue, and we have several pictorials and tutorials here that can help in that department.

The biggest issue is angle and pressure. Make sure that you have the right angle down. There is a wide variety of angles possible where you can still cut the hair, but do irritation to the skin at the same time.

Check this page out and make sure you have angle down pat.

http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Blade_Angle

Two of the most important pics are these
Both of these will result in getting the hair cut off your face, but 5 will result in a lot of irritation as the blade scrapes your skin.
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You may want to try a King Cobra or a Cobra Classic with a Feather Professional blade. You will require less passes and thus have less irritation. This razor is not nearly as blood thirsty as the R41 despite being very efficient.
 
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