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An open letter to those who are about to restore an old razor

M

mtnredhed

Take every steel wire wheel you own, paying particular attention to anything that might fit a Dremel or like tool, and place in a heavy steel box. Cover in oxalic acid, lock, and bury box and key in a clay lined pit.

This has been a public service announcement on behalf of the, "Razors are not lawnmower blades" council of Northern California.

Oh, and don't use a freaking framing hammer to "tighten" pivot pins against your plumbing vise (but that's a different group)

thank you for your time.

This is not directed (knowingly) at any regular, but rather to the novice who would stumble upon this.
 
alpster

alpster

I have worn out many Dremel wire wheels restoring dozens & Dozens of razors and have never had any trouble. I dont know how to get rust out jimps with any other tool.
 
M

mtnredhed

alpster said:
I have worn out many Dremel wire wheels restoring dozens & Dozens of razors and have never had any trouble. I don't know how to get rust out jimps with any other tool.
Click to expand...
If you only used it in the jimps it wouldn't too bad. Picture running it down the hollow from heel to toe leaving deep scratches.

I submit the following into evidence:
$MK3_5534.jpg$MK3_5535.jpg

Framing hammer:
$MK3_5532.jpg$MK3_5533.jpg
 
Slash McCoy

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
I gave up on the dremel when doing Gold Dollars. I use a belt sander and 60 grit, now. And a big spoon for peening.
 
alpster

alpster

mtnredhed said:
If you only used it in the jimps it wouldn't too bad. Picture running it down the hollow from heel to toe leaving deep scratches.

I submit the following into evidence:
View attachment 615575View attachment 615576

Framing hammer:
View attachment 615577View attachment 615578
Click to expand...

You need softer wire wheels. The wheels I use give a satin polish to the blade. You haven't ruined anything, you're just not finished yet. Start by hand with 320 grit sandpaper and follow it with 500, then 1000 and 2000. That blade will be beautiful. There's not a speck of rust on it. Good luck.
 
Slash McCoy

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
What he said. All abrasives leave scratches. They are removed by finer abrasives, that leave finer scratches. And so it goes. Steel is smoothed and polished by scratching it. That's the ugly truth.
 
M

mtnredhed

All of which I understand. I've done a fair bit of auto body work. The problem is that they've left unnecessarily deep scratches by using too hard a wheel. In order to eliminate them, I'd have to remove a lot of metal (I didn't create this mess ). A softer metal wire such as bronze or one of the newer abrasive fiber wheels would of removed the corrosion but not left you with scratches far deeper then the material you needed to remove. In fact I would only use a wire wheel when removing salt pitting that I intended to lead or putty over.
 
HolmerJ

HolmerJ

mtnredhed said:
All of which I understand. I've done a fair bit of auto body work. The problem is that they've left unnecessarily deep scratches by using too hard a wheel. In order to eliminate them, I'd have to remove a lot of metal (I didn't create this mess ). A softer metal wire such as bronze or one of the newer abrasive fiber wheels would of removed the corrosion but not left you with scratches far deeper then the material you needed to remove. In fact I would only use a wire wheel when removing salt pitting that I intended to lead or putty over.
Click to expand...

Can you lead or Tig Weld rust pits on razors? You'd have to do like a Nickle Plate or Chrome Plate afterword's wouldn't you?
 
jlindy

jlindy

HolmerJ said:
Can you lead or Tig Weld rust pits on razors? You'd have to do like a Nickle Plate or Chrome Plate afterword's wouldn't you?
Click to expand...

Um... No. The heat from welding will ruin the temper of the steel. And a straight razors blade is thin enough that you'd just be blowing holes in it with the welder anyway. The best, way to deal with pitting is a bit of sandpaper and a big can of elbow grease.
 
M

mtnredhed

HolmerJ said:
Can you lead or Tig Weld rust pits on razors? You'd have to do like a Nickle Plate or Chrome Plate afterword's wouldn't you?
Click to expand...
TIG/MIG and even braze would remove the temper. Once you get near 350F (for O1), the steel starts to change and lose hardness. Even aggressive buffing near thin edges could get you there. Re heat treating is really out of the question.
 
HolmerJ

HolmerJ

mtnredhed said:
TIG/MIG and even braze would remove the temper. Once you get near 350F (for O1), the steel starts to change and lose hardness. Even aggressive buffing near thin edges could get you there. Re heat treating is really out of the question.
Click to expand...

Ahhh. Thanks and sorry for the dumb question.
 
G

GimbalLocker

This is also why no Chef ever lets his knife anywhere near a dishwasher. My Wusthof chefs knife is also hollow ground, and only gets washed by hand by me.
 
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