Winter Coat Questions

BooksMan · Nov 10, 2015

I bought an overcoat that goes down to mid-thigh. I have a medium/slim build but broad shoulders, and I wanted to get it tapered a bit. Is that something your average tailor can do?

Also, I really wanted to buy a full length over coat that was on sale but decided against it. I don't live in a large city or walk too much from my car. Is there a good reason for having a long over coat even if you don't live in, say, Chicago?

oc_in_fw · Nov 10, 2015

I don't see why a tailor couldn't taper it. Take in material is easy, adding is the tough part :001_smile

As to a long coat- they look good.

the_edski · Nov 10, 2015

Why'd you have to single out Chicago, huh? :tongue_sm

Doc4 · Nov 10, 2015

BooksMan said:
I bought an overcoat that goes down to mid-thigh. I have a medium/slim build but broad shoulders, and I wanted to get it tapered a bit. Is that something your average tailor can do?

Also, I really wanted to buy a full length over coat that was on sale but decided against it. I don't live in a large city or walk too much from my car. Is there a good reason for having a long over coat even if you don't live in, say, Chicago?

No matter where you live, a longer coat will give the same benefits of keeping you warmer from cold winds and drier from rain and puddle splashes &c. The extra length can be a bit of a PITA for some guys getting in and out of cars; others don't mind. The shorter coats tend to have a "mod 60's" vibe, and the longer ones tend to be more "40's/50's classic" vibe. Do you see yourself as Humphrey Bogart in film noir, or a 60's/70's mod ... Steeve McQueen &c.

See, even in Chigago they wore short coats for a while when it was "the fashion" to do so.

the_edski said:
Why'd you have to single out Chicago, huh?

Da Bears.

paintflinger · Nov 11, 2015

I've got a variety of longer length jackets/coats. As stated above, wearing it in the car can be annoying, but the longer lengths wear better in the weather and look better overall.

Edcculus · Nov 11, 2015

I don't own a long coat, as in knee length or longer. I have one that goes down to mid calf, and I can see much longer being slightly annoying in a car, but not too bad. One nice thing about my coat, is it has 2 sets of zippers. One closes an inner portion of the coat that goes down just to my waist. The outer portion is the long portion. That way, when you get in a car, you can just unzip the outer portion and not have all of that fabric bunch up (and still keep warm).

dpm802 · Nov 11, 2015

I've always disliked long and bulky coats ... If I'm just going from house to car, I will often carry the coat over my arm and toss it on the passenger seat. It tends to get in my way when I'm driving, so I'd rather shiver for a couple minutes while the car warms up instead of being constricted and uncomfortable for the whole ride.

No matter what the article of clothing, I always put function first and fashion second.

Edcculus · Nov 11, 2015

dpm802 said:
No matter what the article of clothing, I always put function first and fashion second.

Are you the inventor of the Slanket?????

BooksMan · Nov 12, 2015

Thanks for all of the responses. I went ahead and got the long coat. I'll be in Boston this January for a week, and it will be useful then.

NastyPirate · Nov 13, 2015

oc_in_fw said:
I don't see why a tailor couldn't taper it. Take in material is easy, adding is the tough part As to a long coat- they look good.

Actually, Owen, it is very difficult to taper a winter coat, suit coat, etc. The coat literally has to be deconstructed and re-cut.

With coats and jackets, the seam is in the middle of the back. Fabric would bunch if you try to trim it in. Shirts have a seam on the side, so it is no problem. I have my suits and coats made, and its the reason that we have a trial fit; if the sides not right they can be adjusted, as the coat is either pinned or loose-sewn at that point. Once the coat is finished sewn, no changes can be made unless you tear out all of the final stiching.

Mr Bob · Nov 15, 2015

NastyPirate said:
Actually, Owen, it is very difficult to taper a winter coat, suit coat, etc. The coat literally has to be deconstructed and re-cut.

With coats and jackets, the seam is in the middle of the back. Fabric would bunch if you try to trim it in. Shirts have a seam on the side, so it is no problem. I have my suits and coats made, and its the reason that we have a trial fit; if the sides not right they can be adjusted, as the coat is either pinned or loose-sewn at that point. Once the coat is finished sewn, no changes can be made unless you tear out all of the final stiching.

I agree that getting fit for made to order is a good way to go. But that's not an option for many buyers. It is not difficult to make minor alterations to an overcoat. Any decent quality off the rack overcoat can be fit like it was made to order. It will not need to be re-cut unless the chest or shoulders need taking in, or you're taking the waist/taper more than a couple of inches (at which point the arm holes, shoulder or chest might start to look goofy, or pocket location becomes an issue). It's no more difficult to take it in a bit than minor alterations to a suit jacket.

A good seamstress or tailor will be able to take it in a bit and recommend other changes that might be needed, like moving the buttons. The end result should be a well fitting overcoat. A less than good seamstress or tailor will make you regret having the work done.

NastyPirate · Nov 15, 2015

Mr Bob said:
I agree that getting fit for made to order is a good way to go. But that's not an option for many buyers. It is not difficult to make minor alterations to an overcoat. Any decent quality off the rack overcoat can be fit like it was made to order. It will not need to be re-cut unless the chest or shoulders need taking in, or you're taking the waist/taper more than a couple of inches (at which point the arm holes, shoulder or chest might start to look goofy, or pocket location becomes an issue). It's no more difficult to take it in a bit than minor alterations to a suit jacket.

A good seamstress or tailor will be able to take it in a bit and recommend other changes that might be needed, like moving the buttons. The end result should be a well fitting overcoat. A less than good seamstress or tailor will make you regret having the work done.

We'll have to agree to disagree..ANY clothing that is taken in or modified in some manner is going to change other parts of the clothing. There is X amount of cloth (and in the case of a winter coat, the lining and filler) and taking something out will pull or drop another part of the garment in some way. Change the drape of one part of the coat (the side), you change something else unintentionally (the drape of the chest or the back or the shoulders).

While I understand that everyone has a budget, a winter coat should be purchased so that it fits without anything needing to be done to it.

BooksMan · Nov 24, 2015

Just got my coat back from the tailor's. I think they did an excellent job. It fits well and looks great. I understand your point, NastyPirate. If I had the money to have a tailor-made coat (or suit, jacket, etc) I would go that way; but going the middle way with having off-the-shelf items tailored is a very practical and solid second if you've got a good tailor to work with.

dpm802 · Nov 24, 2015

BooksMan said:
Just got my coat back from the tailor's. I think they did an excellent job. It fits well and looks great. I understand your point, NastyPirate. If I had the money to have a tailor-made coat (or suit, jacket, etc) I would go that way; but going the middle way with having off-the-shelf items tailored is a very practical and solid second if you've got a good tailor to work with.

Are there any good bespoke tailor shops in the United States?

I dream about flying off to Saville Row and handing them a blank check to make me a complete set of clothes from scratch ... but its just a dream. In the meantime, I buy stuff off the rack and have to settle for clothes that kinda, sorta fit.

There is one company in NYC that will hand-sew shirts to your measurements ... www.nattyshirts.com ... but this is a mail-order operation only. While the actual shirt is sewn by hand, they do so from a catalog of fabrics and designs, so its only semi-custom. I'd rather find a tailor that will take my measurements first-hand and be able to talk to me and discuss exactly, precisely what I want.

NastyPirate · Nov 24, 2015

dpm802 said:
Are there any good bespoke tailor shops in the United States?

There are tons of tailors, but only four Master Tailors in the U.S. They are the true Savile Row quality guys. Mine is one of the four and in the States now, but emigrated from the U.K. after proving himself on Savile. He won the Golden Shears award there. P.M. me if you are ever seriously interested, and I will forward you.

For shirts, these guys excel. They carry more cloth than anyone in the world. My best luck with shirts are with them, but have 1 made for fit so that you can tell them how to make the others. Best to use one of their reps that visit cities on a regular basis, rather than ordering off the web.

http://www.mytailor.com/OrderToday.aspx

Kazeryu · Dec 2, 2015

oc_in_fw said:
I don't see why a tailor couldn't taper it. Take in material is easy, adding is the tough part As to a long coat- they look good.

There's only so much you can take in from the sides before you have to completely re-do the sleeves.

Edited to Add: My comment applies to any shirt or coat. There are other considerations such as drape and embellishments which another poster already mentioned.

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Winter Coat Questions

BooksMan

oc_in_fw

Fridays are Fishtastic!

the_edski

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather

paintflinger

Edcculus

dpm802

Edcculus

BooksMan

NastyPirate

Mr Bob

NastyPirate

BooksMan

dpm802

NastyPirate

Kazeryu

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