Schick injector spring doesn't lock

I'm not sure why it doesn't seem to lock, I have a 1937 patent, Type E (I think) Schick Injector with non-seamed bakelite handle, but the spring does not seem to close all the way, why? I just got it yesterday, so I don't know much about them, but it seems where it is set lets the lower part of what holds the blade in place hang down, I think this is for cleaning it only?but when I bring the spring around to close it, I see one side of the clip/retainer has a bevel to it like it shoudl click in from that side, but I can not get it to go. what would be causing this?

Also, as a side question, is Brass-o safe to use for cleaning this? Or is something else preferable?

STOP! I would NOT use Brass-o!!

On the spring issue...can you post a picture? It would be useful to see the details of the spring and tabs etc.

Do not use Brasso (or any abrasive cleaner/polish) unless your goal is to strip the gold plating right off.

The later E's were not designed to have the spring opened at all, and doing so can destroy the spring tension. However, as Shiloh mentioned, we need pictures - otherwise we're just speculating.

--Bob

ok noted on Brasso, I was waiting for input so I never used anything.
Here's some pics.

You're right in that the notch in the spring should be centered on the little tab. That will lock the spring tightly in place. Not sure how to get it there without manhandling it (not recommended). I hope someone else more knowledgeable provides a solution!

Thanks, yeah I got it used, and it probably got sold because someone did that and couldn't get it back in place! But I am examining this further, it could be that the tab is slightly bent, in the first picture, assuming, it should be aligned with the top being exactly 12 oclock, it appears to be slightly bent closer to 11:30 or so. Does this make sense? Does it look like that to anyone else?

That is one of the later E types that is designed not to be opened at all. Try using a small screwdriver to carefully bump the spring over the tab so that tab is centered in the notch in the spring. Try not to lift the spring more than you absolutely have to. You've got nothing to lose. If the guard rattles after you do this it means that the spring has been damaged.

--Bob

Here is a picture of a couple of E types. The one on the left is the type that is designed to be opened for cleaning, the one on the right should not be opened and is how your razor is supposed to look.



--Bob

Does that same "not supposed to open" rule apply to my G Type? The spring and notch look like this E Type

Yes, it does, only the very early e types opened for cleaning.

+ 1 on the above....That looks like its well Goosed...There are many getting sold like this just now unfortunately...

Billy

Thanks guys, I am going to try it. I have had an overly extreme level of stress this week, and when things can settle down, I will try it. Even then, I will probably try to clean it first. So Brasso is out, just soap and water? or is there anything that will remove the corrosion without damaging the finish?

Before you try to clean it I'd see if moving the spring works. I hate to say it but the odds of it being able to be fixed are very low so no point putting time or effort into cleaning it in advance. If there is a rattle when you finish it means that you don't have enough tension in the spring to keep the blade firmly clamped in place. Shaving with a loose blade is likely to be an experience you would want to forget. Best not to have it in the first place.

If by chance it works then a long soak in hot water with liquid dish soap and some scrubbing with a toothbrush will get a lot off. Some people would not recommend this but I have used toothpaste on these after my initial cleaning without damaging them. Best to not scrub the heads hard with toothpaste as it is an abrasive. Just scrub gently as you don't want to wear off the gold plating.

Karl

If only it was a spring made of spring steel. But as I recall, it's just a piece of bent brass (is it really? I'm not near my junk pile o' razors to double check). As mentioned, you can lift it over back onto the key into the notch using a small screw driver. If it's loose - there is a good chance that it won't be loose - take a small hammer and tap tap tap the spring at the high point till you get back some tension. May work or it may not. It just wasn't meant to be moved.

If it doesn't work, then take a big hammer. you know what to do next.

-jim

These are indeed sprung...They are springs and the locating tab can be damaged as well...These were designed to have a blade permanently in place and or a factory blank...An injector that has been stored empty can weaken the spring cause it was designed to be under permanent tension...The heads are also an integral part of that set up and can be damaged as well if out of alignment...But as you say you may get away with it if you are lucky...You will need a lot of luck though...

Billy

My 2 cents is in line with Jim's - I'd clean it (Scrubbing Bubbles & old toothbrush should work fine, toothpick on the joints). As someone said, lift just enough to move it. Do not be discouraged if it rattles a bit without a blade injected. Put a blade in, if it ain't falling apart, shave. repeat. But don't take it apart again. And maybe I'm wrong, but don't think that you can scrub the gold off a brass razor head.

Edit: Another great tool for cleaning a Schick is dental floss, slipped in between all those close joints it will find stuff that nothing else will

thanks guys things have improved here, not so stressed, actually kinda bored tonight, so I did it. I tried first a really small jewelery style screwdriver but it couldn't really move the spring. so I tried something quite a bit larger and it was able to move it just enough and I can't detect any rattling. so Im pretty happy. but no blades, so I will be ordering some right away (I'll check a store first but I've never noticed them and I always ramble through the shaving gear. I didn't open it myself I got it that way, but I'll be sure to never open it, and if I ever trade it or sell it I'll be sure to send some important notes with it. Thank you all very much for the help.

garyg said:

And maybe I'm wrong, but don't think that you can scrub the gold off a brass razor head.

Click to expand...

It's gold plated brass - extremely thin gold plating, which will scrub off with almost no effort at all if any sort of abrasive cleaner or polish is used.

The brass underneath is a different color and will tarnish if not kept polished.

--Bob

magu2k said:

thanks guys things have improved here, not so stressed, actually kinda bored tonight, so I did it. I tried first a really small jewelery style screwdriver but it couldn't really move the spring. so I tried something quite a bit larger and it was able to move it just enough and I can't detect any rattling. so Im pretty happy. but no blades, so I will be ordering some right away (I'll check a store first but I've never noticed them and I always ramble through the shaving gear. I didn't open it myself I got it that way, but I'll be sure to never open it, and if I ever trade it or sell it I'll be sure to send some important notes with it. Thank you all very much for the help.

Click to expand...

Congratulations! The real test will be when you put a blade in and shave. I would insert one blade. And then insert a second blade to shave with, sacrificing the first blade, because sometimes inserting a blade with the razor head empty will damage the blade.

Also be aware this early 1937 Type E has a well earned reputation of being a highly aggressive razor. So be careful. It's not a mild Gillette Tech.