Whats the best way to keep away rust? other than running tissues through it?
- Thread starter Benjamin
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Tissue paper, air dry the. Keep in silica embedded sleeve... And don't get the pivot wet if you can
A couple of minutes under a hair dryer (WARM setting/LOW fan).....THEN air-dry in a cool place....store with silica-gel packet(s)....
Close shaves should SOOTHE ya...NOT SCARE ya!!
Close shaves should SOOTHE ya...NOT SCARE ya!!
I use silicon sleeves and try not to get the scales/pivot wet, I succeed 99.9% of the time. If you do get the pivot wet then TP and a hairdryer should get the job done, need to dry really well, water gets inside the pivot hole and that takes time to dry.
Post shave I rinse the blade is as hot a water as comes out of the tap (edge down/toe down) then strop on a cotton t-shirt, the shirt dries the blade, the heat from the tap water makes any little dropplets left dry almost instantly.
Post shave I rinse the blade is as hot a water as comes out of the tap (edge down/toe down) then strop on a cotton t-shirt, the shirt dries the blade, the heat from the tap water makes any little dropplets left dry almost instantly.
I've given up. No matter what I do, there is rust. I don't care any longer. When the rust gets to bothering me I get help having the rust properly removed. Doc is on speed dial . . . .
My razors get wet - everywhere - regularly. I have zero rust issues.
Heating the blade under really hot running water before wiping it down with bounty PT works well.
I oil the pivots regularly. I don't use tissue because it leaves ittle bits of fiberous dust behind sometimes. Same for cotton towels. Bounty doesn't seem to do that, dunno why but that's what I see.
For longer term storage, I oil the blades, clean them off and re-oil regularly and those boxes have a piece of VCI paper in them.
Heating the blade under really hot running water before wiping it down with bounty PT works well.
I oil the pivots regularly. I don't use tissue because it leaves ittle bits of fiberous dust behind sometimes. Same for cotton towels. Bounty doesn't seem to do that, dunno why but that's what I see.
For longer term storage, I oil the blades, clean them off and re-oil regularly and those boxes have a piece of VCI paper in them.
I dry as good as I can with a cotton T Shirt then a quick dip into ISP Alcohol to displace and evaporate any remaining water, air dry for about 30 minutes and then a drop of mineral oil into the pivot pin area. Keeps everything running smooth and clean for me. YMMV.
I air dry in the bedroom for the next day
Same with me, before razor goes back in box. Zero issues.
Lol is cotton dust in the pivots a big problem ? I've never seen this be a problem
Yes you can oil your blade too that helps... Just be careful with bone or ivory as oil can seep in the scales... Also mineral oil has water in it no mater how pure and can lead to oxidation if it isn't cleaned off and reapplied regularly
Alfredo Never Sleeps.
I'm a straight shaving slob, not a starship captain!
I read somewhere to take one of those small cloths that are used for cleaning your glasses with and put about three or four drops of mineral oil on it. Then use the cloth to wipe your razor with after you dry it off. I add another few drops to the cloth about once a week or so.
Ever since I started doing this I've had zero rust issues.
Ever since I started doing this I've had zero rust issues.
When shaving, dry hands when using, rinse blade, no water into pivot & scales, easy to do, why immerse razor in water, after shaving first dry blade with towel, then stop well, both linen, and leather side, this helps dry the blade, then I air dry for a bit while cleaning my shave bowl, brush, and surrounding shaving area, oil carefully (mineral oil) blade, tang, (and pivot just for precaution), and store away. I store my razors in a dry environment (clothes closet), in flat wear (silver wear box), with a few packets of silica thrown in, no problems here.
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I think we are all gonna get the pivot wet from time to time despite our best efforts. My solution is to first try not to and when that fails blow the pivot out with a can of compressed air. The kind they use to clean computer keyboards. Then once every few months I put a drop of sentry solutions tuff glide in both sides of the pivot, work it back and forth, and then blow out the excess. It dries bone dry, but it always there protecting the pivot from rust.
Cotton dust, well - dust in general can wick moisture out of the air, and it'll draw that moisture right through a layer of oil to the stee and that can/will cause it to rust.
While I haven't had a razor rust from this, probably because I clean off and re-oil razors periodically - I have handled many cast iron pots/pans that rusted because the previous owner oiled them but then let them get dirty. I have 7-8 hanging in the kitchen and they all get taken down, cleaned off, dried and reoiled regulary.
I've also seen it happen on firearms and tools. So - when I am storing ferrous metals long term - I start with the surface being as 'dust free' as possible. Dust gets on everything eventually, so regular maintainence is SOP.
Dust in the pivot? That wasn't my point, was talking about the blade in general.
Mineral oil on ivory and bone is fine.
I wonder if it's worthwhile to put a dab of synthetic grease around the pivot when re-pinning (assuming the scale material isn't something that will absorb the grease). Something like Mobil1 or even Lubriplate 130A should stay where it's put and keep moisture out indefinitely.
Mineral oil doesn't harm bone or ivory but I've seen personally where it absorbs into the scales and creates a look similar to oil on paper where it takes a slight translucence... And it cannot be removed sometimes even if you soak the scales in naphtha...
Users make your own decisions but just saying I've seen it... Ivory and bone should have a white color without being too dry
Edit here's a pic where someone did it on srp
See how the tip is translucent and darker?
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