Tough Whiskers and Aftershave

[rashkov]

Hi everybody,

I have joined in on this excellent hobby because I was disenchanted after my electric broke, and I proceeded to try another electric as well as a Mach 3 Turbo. Both of those did terrible things to my face, so I decided that I have sensitive skin. I actually got something working with a Sensor Excel (two blade cartridges), but decided by this point that double-edge looked like fun so I gave it a go.

I have been shaving for several weeks now. My equipment is Merkur HD, Derby Extras, C&E Finest Badger Brush, and Taylor of Old Bond Street shaving cream (hypoallergenic). I have not had much trouble with my technique after the first couple of shaves -- I rarely cut myself and irritation is usually minimal or acceptable.

My problem is that I can't get a close shave. I have tried three-pass, four-pass (WTG, ATG, ATG in reverse, XTG), and more, but I can not seem to get a consistently good shave. The closest results are when I really take the time soften my whiskers with a lather massage and some steaming, but this only worked a couple of times. I am certain that my whiskers are very tough, so I recently ordered some feather blades.

I have a question about after-shave. My current procedure is to do a once-over with a styptic pencil (optionally), a splash of cold water, and then I go into my skin-care regimen: mild cleanser, wait several minutes to try, benzoyl peroxide (to promote clear skin, it creates a very unfavorable environment for bacteria), wait to dry, and finally moisturizer. Does anyone see any problem with me doing this instead of after-shave? Please let me know your thoughts. I need to keep this regimen, so it has to stay.

[rafikz]

I wouldn't use a cleanser and BP right after shaving

[rashkov]

rafiks: I would do it before, but the BP has to stay on all day. If I shave after putting on BP, then it would get washed off.

Also, as an addendum to my post: I think the most troublesome part is how the Derbys "pull" on my whiskers when I shave. This gives me a very unpleasant shave. I feel that the feather blades will fix this up. By the way, my lather seems to be good -- I get the merengue "hills", and the lather "shines."

I just looked up blade buffing, and that got me to watch Mantic's advanced techniques video again. I think that these techniques can do a lot for me to get those stubborn small patches that won't be removed with traditional passes (WTG, ACT, or XTG).

[Shave Cat]

I see nothing wrong with your regimen as long as the moisturizer does its job. Dried out skin and whiskers are the enemies of a good shave. I found out that the hard way. I had read that applying witch hazel as an aftershave splash was soothing. So, I incorrectly began applying witch hazel liberally to my face and neck throughout the day. Comfortable shaves became a thing of the past. What I didn't realize was that most witch hazel products contain 14% alcohol and are astringents. Astringents close the pores, reducing the production of natural skin oils. According to Thayers (a producer of witch hazel products) witch hazel containing alcohol should be used sparingly, and then only once a day. My face and neck had become so dehydrated that it seemed that no amount of prep helped.

As long as your face and neck aren't becoming dried out, I don't think you'll need any additional aftershave products. I'm certainly no expert, that's my opinion though.

-Clarke

[morijinal]

How is your blade angle?

For the longest time I was getting non-irritating yet horribly scruffy shaves. Turns out my angle was too steep! That 'cutting sound' I was hearing was my bar running over my whiskers.

One day I greatly reduced my angle.

I was once proud that I had been staving off nicks and razor burn. At that point I had to relearn how to shave with my new angle. I got nicks. I got razor burn. I got a close shave.

Not to scare you, but if are going for a close shave you are going to do a little damage while learning.

[rashkov]

Shave Cat: I think you've diagnosed it. I rarely put moisturizer on it, so there's no doubt that my skin is overly dry. It also can't help when I go over it with alum!

morijinal: I just shaved and paid very close attention to the blade angle -- thanks for the tip -- this has helped me to narrow it down to the dry skin.