So, I have a balsa strop from Whipped Dog that I use occasionally to refresh my edges. What I want to know is this . . . how do I go about reloading the CrOx on each side? Just sprinkle the powder on each side and rub it in? Make a paste? Don't need to reload it just yet, but thinking ahead.
Reloading a balsa strop.
- Thread starter Orville
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Either way works. Since CrOx is so cheap I would prefer the dry rub. With a paste there is a temptation to put too much. You don't want a layer on the balsa. You want the crystals to be embedded in the balsa. This gives a much finer edge, though it does demand a lot more strokes of the razor. Don't do this around anything you don't want to stain green, such as light colored cloth upholstered furniture.
I use diamond paste, myself. I have 4 grrades, 1u, .5u, .25u, and .1u. Generally I just use the .1u unless the edge seems to be going north on me. My balsa strops are 12" long and 4" wide. I like the real estate. Before initial application, I lap my balsa on sandpaper, and sometimes before a re-load, too. It doesn't do much good if it isn't flat.
I use diamond paste, myself. I have 4 grrades, 1u, .5u, .25u, and .1u. Generally I just use the .1u unless the edge seems to be going north on me. My balsa strops are 12" long and 4" wide. I like the real estate. Before initial application, I lap my balsa on sandpaper, and sometimes before a re-load, too. It doesn't do much good if it isn't flat.
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Yeah . . . was going to do it under the car port later today. No worries about overloading, as there is only a small amount of spare crox provided. Thanks.
Sand as needed. Place a small amount of olive oil and a small amount of pigment on a saucer. Blend them with a craft or Popsicle stick. Apply this to the balsa (or sanded leather) with the pad of the thumb. Wash thumb and saucer off thoroughly afterwards, taking care to remove any pigment from beneath the thumbnail. Let balsa dry in open air overnight.
Dip the tips of the bristles of a small, clean paint brush in the dry powder and spread on the balsa with the brush tip. Works like a charm and very little mess if you are careful.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
When you are ready to reload, you might consider a bigger piece of balsa. It's not $100/oz finest Oriental patio stone, after all. Go to Hobby Lobby or elsewhere and get a 4 x 36 plank of balsa, maybe 1/4" thick but thinner is fine. Glue it to a hardwood board. (of course this means you can only use one side of it) or a piece of heavy glass or a marble tile, whatever. You want to keep the balsa from warping from changes in humidity or age, which is why you glue it to a hard backing. Then lap it nice and flat on some 220 grit paper. finish on 400 if you like, but its not really necessary. Flatness is necessary, and large area is HIGHTLY desireable. A 36" piece will give you three nice strops. Later you could invest in some diamond paste, maybe. Its what I use, and once I hone a blade, I never have to re-hone again. Ever. At most, I might have to hit the 1u balsa or .5u balsa and progress to my regular .1u balsa, when the edge startts to fade a bit.
It's good that you waited the extra hour.....until it really needed it. J/K
