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PIF: "Ol' Splitback" a Slash McCoy GD

joamo

joamo

I'm in, I would love to have one of your razors:thumbup:
I currently shave with a Crabtree & Evelyn 5/8, a couple of Klas Tornblom's, a few Wosty's and a fair number of other razors.
 
Heespharm

Heespharm

Not in but HEEELLLLLLO SLASH! Was just telling bill your lapping film is what got me honing... Now I use jnats but still had a lapping film origin
 
ouch

ouch

Stjynnkii membörd dummpsjterd
Thanks for the great offer, Slash. Good luck to the eventual winner.
 
tonzo

tonzo

Very cool,thanks! Im in.i started on a sholderless gd from vorpal last December, got a billy t a few months later.i have two vintages i picked up last month but now im at a point were none are shave ready,my moneys going into my car that doesn't like to run. im next in line for the wreck pass around but till then my merkur 180 is called off the bench .
 
weizemanner

weizemanner

I have a modest collection of straights, but I have never shaved with a straight razor honed by someone else. I would be very curious to compare another member's hone with mine and my shavettes.

Straight RazorsC.V. Heljestrand (Eskilstuna, Sweden)
  • MK 31
  • MK 31
  • BK 41 fabriqué en suède (first razor)
  • Dannemora-Gjutstal - modified, shank is smaller, crude jimps, maker marks removed.
Frederick Reynolds (Sheffield, England)
  • Extra Hollow Ground
Griffon Cutlery Works (Germany)
  • Griffon xx 67
H. Boker & Co (Solingen, Germany)
  • King Cutter
J.A. Henckels Twinworks (Solingen, Germany)
  • 401 "Platinum"
Joseph Smith & Sons (Sheffield, England)
  • Celebrated Razor 3415 (6.5/8 wedge)
JR Torrey Razor Co (Worcester, Mass. USA)
  • barber notch
  • 258
Klas Tornblom (Eskilstuna, Sweden)
  • 4/8 (Extremely hollow ground thin blade)
Wade & Butcher (Sheffield, England)
  • Hollow Ground, Horn scales, Dome washers late 1800's?

Shavettes
Feather
  • Artist Club RG Folding
Sally's
  • Magic Shavette
  • weck/fromm
 
Seraphim

Seraphim

You managed to escape the Bermuda Triangle?

I figured it was either that, or you were doing battle with a giant Kraken at sea, marooned on an island with a cyclops, or your ship had been swallowed by an enormous whirlpool.
 
Michael Spotts

Michael Spotts

I'm in. I have 1 GD that is okay but ugly and needs some love. A JR Torrey Razor Co that I picked up for $1 at a flea market that I've been trying to get an edge on. Seeing as I only have lapping film ATM I need to spend some time with it. I have some other blades but none are set in scales or have any kind of edge on them. I don't have the time, materials or tools to get them finished. So I'll hold on to them until that changes. Having a straight with a proper edge would help.
 
Slash McCoy

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Michael Spotts said:
I'm in. I have 1 GD that is okay but ugly and needs some love. A JR Torrey Razor Co that I picked up for $1 at a flea market that I've been trying to get an edge on. Seeing as I only have lapping film ATM I need to spend some time with it. I have some other blades but none are set in scales or have any kind of edge on them. I don't have the time, materials or tools to get them finished. So I'll hold on to them until that changes. Having a straight with a proper edge would help.
Click to expand...

A Torrey for a buck is a great find, unless it is thoroughly hosed. But straights from the wild generally need a complete bevel reset. Instead of film, try some wet/dry sandpaper. Start with 600 grit. Home Depot or Auto Zone. Then hit it with 1000 and then 2000. You can use a pane of glass cut to the right dimensions, or a polished marble edge tile. Anything that is really, really flat, and I don't mean just eyeball flat, but real flat. No ceramic tile, for instance. I like to use just a light spray of spray adhesive to stick the sandpaper to the plate. Film works fine with just water to stick it, but sandpaper works better glued on. Acetone will remove glue residue. Cheap nail polish remover is just acetone. Or you can buy it by the quart at home depot. I suggest using the burr method of setting the bevel, as in my youtube video. It is easy to nail it on the first attempt. Once the bevel is set and verified, then go to your films. You will have that Torrey shaving like Sweeny Todd in no time. You can take it in stages. One evening, set the bevel on 600 grit. Another evening, spend 10 minutes progressing through 2000 grit paper. The next free time you have, hit the 9u or 5u film. Then some evening, do 3u and 1u. Finally, finish over pico-paper and then strop. Don't have to sit down and commit to a couple of hours in a session.

TAP plastics sells 1/8" thick acrylic sheet that makes dandy scales. Its what I normally use. You get a lot of scales out of just $20 worth of acrylic. www.microfasteners.com for size 0 bolts and nuts and washers, for temporary pinning, and Hobby Lobby for 1/16" brass rod and the same washers for permanent, or just peen the threaded end of the microfastener bolt. Dont need any special tools. Sandpaper, thats it, and maybe a coping saw. A drill is nice, for drilling, but you can just tape a drill bit and twirl it with your fingers. Coarse sandpaper is great for shaping acrylic scales. finer paper for polishing, maybe even your used lapping film. I like to final finish with a rag wheel in a dremel, with a little diamond paste. anyhow, scales can be really easy, and super cheap. But having all those blades without scales is a perfect opportunity to polish them up nice, first.

Tell ya what, when I go "eeny meanie miney mo" fir the PIF and if you aren't "mo", I will still send you a cut pair of scales and a wedge. You will need to do final shaping and smoothing of the scales which being acrylic will be pretty easy, and taper the wedge, which you can easily do just by rubbing it on sandpaper laid flat on a surface, putting pressure toward the round end. The whole idea is to spread the scales apart, so you can figure that out. I'll even throw in a set of pinning parts. You supply the spoon for whacking the pin head. If your name comes out of the hat, I will still send you the scale kit along with the razor, so you can fix up one of your orphan blades. Just post your progress and your final results, as an example to other relative newbies what they too can accomplish.

Ol' Splitback has the same acrylic scales, by the way. Just so you can see how decently they can come out.
 
Michael Spotts

Michael Spotts

Slash McCoy said:
A Torrey for a buck is a great find, unless it is thoroughly hosed. But straights from the wild generally need a complete bevel reset. Instead of film, try some wet/dry sandpaper. Start with 600 grit. Home Depot or Auto Zone. Then hit it with 1000 and then 2000. You can use a pane of glass cut to the right dimensions, or a polished marble edge tile. Anything that is really, really flat, and I don't mean just eyeball flat, but real flat. No ceramic tile, for instance. I like to use just a light spray of spray adhesive to stick the sandpaper to the plate. Film works fine with just water to stick it, but sandpaper works better glued on. Acetone will remove glue residue. Cheap nail polish remover is just acetone. Or you can buy it by the quart at home depot. I suggest using the burr method of setting the bevel, as in my youtube video. It is easy to nail it on the first attempt. Once the bevel is set and verified, then go to your films. You will have that Torrey shaving like Sweeny Todd in no time. You can take it in stages. One evening, set the bevel on 600 grit. Another evening, spend 10 minutes progressing through 2000 grit paper. The next free time you have, hit the 9u or 5u film. Then some evening, do 3u and 1u. Finally, finish over pico-paper and then strop. Don't have to sit down and commit to a couple of hours in a session.

TAP plastics sells 1/8" thick acrylic sheet that makes dandy scales. Its what I normally use. You get a lot of scales out of just $20 worth of acrylic. www.microfasteners.com for size 0 bolts and nuts and washers, for temporary pinning, and Hobby Lobby for 1/16" brass rod and the same washers for permanent, or just peen the threaded end of the microfastener bolt. Dont need any special tools. Sandpaper, thats it, and maybe a coping saw. A drill is nice, for drilling, but you can just tape a drill bit and twirl it with your fingers. Coarse sandpaper is great for shaping acrylic scales. finer paper for polishing, maybe even your used lapping film. I like to final finish with a rag wheel in a dremel, with a little diamond paste. anyhow, scales can be really easy, and super cheap. But having all those blades without scales is a perfect opportunity to polish them up nice, first.

Tell ya what, when I go "eeny meanie miney mo" fir the PIF and if you aren't "mo", I will still send you a cut pair of scales and a wedge. You will need to do final shaping and smoothing of the scales which being acrylic will be pretty easy, and taper the wedge, which you can easily do just by rubbing it on sandpaper laid flat on a surface, putting pressure toward the round end. The whole idea is to spread the scales apart, so you can figure that out. I'll even throw in a set of pinning parts. You supply the spoon for whacking the pin head. If your name comes out of the hat, I will still send you the scale kit along with the razor, so you can fix up one of your orphan blades. Just post your progress and your final results, as an example to other relative newbies what they too can accomplish.

Ol' Splitback has the same acrylic scales, by the way. Just so you can see how decently they can come out.
Click to expand...
Well thank you good sir. I tend to over complicate things. I will post my progress and may even PIF the finished piece. It's getting time for me to give back and well I'll do my best and hope it comes out.
 
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