Hart 6/8 & 7/8

I know there are plenty of Hart threads, but I posted this here bc:

a. I am most familiar with you guys.
b. The honing of diff sizes will push my decision.
c. A new Hart thread is never a bad thing!

I've always wanted a Hart razor, but couldn't justify the cost (even with the discount for signing up with their email list). But after some experience, i've decided that I just prefer shaving and honing on larger blades. And my want to own a Hart has stood the test of time, which means it won't be an impulse buy right? haha.

I don't know much about angles, but remember reading somewhere that the 6/8 and 7/8 have diff angles. Will that be something to consider? Or is it negligible?

I think the honers in this subform probably have a more objective view when it comes to shaves, so which do you prefer for honing? Shaving?

Thanks in advance

I have a early gen 6/8s satin square point i dont use often. I wasnt aware that the 7/8s didnt have similar relative geometry when they introduced it. Id be curious to know if the bevel angles are diff from the factory.

I could swear I read that somewhere, let me see if I can find it again.

I should probably address the question, if the spines are the same width, the 7/8s would be slightly wider bevel and smaller edge angle.

I dont think it would make much difference in the end result that would be a fatal flaw. Both could be addressed with either tape or final finishing to preclude edge issues

Go with whatever size you prefer. There are no flaws or differences in the honing or shaving that will be prohibitive with either choice in my view.

Jon, I would use the one layer of tape that they do.

David, I've never shaved or honed with a 7/8, I have 6/8s- maybe time to spice it up.

As was stated, if the spine width of both razors are identical, then the 7/8" blade would have a more acute angle. The bevel width would depend on the grind, but everything else being equal, one would expect the bevel to be wider on the wider blade due to more acuteness. As an example, if the 6/8" blade had a spine width of 0.22, the resulting bevel angle would be 9.21 DPS or about 18.4 degrees inclusive. The 7/8"lade would be 7.88 DPS and 15.77 degrees inclusive if the spine width were identical.

Question is, are the spine widths identical?

I have 6/8 and 7/8 Hart blades and hone both identically. I use one layer of tape because I do not enjoy the look of hone wear. I just checked with my dial caliper and 6/8 and 7/8 were 0.205 wide across the spine. I do have a 7/8 damascus Hart that is different (0.250) but they did not make the blank for that razor.

I have had three Hart razors, two 6/8th's and one 7/8th's. Honed all without tape and preferred the 6/8th's size and feel that I get just a little better edges on the 6/8th's Harts. I sold the 7/8th's, just liked the feel of the slightly smaller blade. I'm still not a fan of there scales, but really like the blades.

Thanks all.

So does bevel acuteness levels affect how easily it will hone up or keep an edge?

Everything else being equal, an angle that is more acute will be sharper, cut more efficiently, and be weaker and more prone to damage than a more obtuse angle. Given the same grind and blade thickness, the more acute angle will have a wider bevel, which might be more difficult to hone than a thinner one due to the necessity to remove more steel to the apex in order to get it sharp the entire length of the blade.

It is difficult to say what the optimal bevel angle is on a razor, because the hardness and temper of the steel comes into play here. I think it is generally accepted that less than 20 degrees inclusive is better than a bevel angle that is greater than 20 degrees, but there are individual exceptions I have read about where razors shaved well that hade bevel angles over 20 degrees inclusive. With bevel angles less than 16 or 15 degrees inclusive, I would be keeping an eye on edge damage as I would think that these edges would be more prone to damage due to less steel behind it. I am certain there are examples of 15 degree inclusive edges that have given up to 100 shaves on it with no problems. As stated, hardness and temper of the steel come into play. I am certain that there are many people who prefer either end of the spectrum, and each will have their own valid reasons for their preference such as improved sharpness, or improved edge retention. But, make no mistake that if you repeatedly hone a razor using tape on the spine, each honing will result in a more obtuse bevel angle than the previous honing due to protecting the spine and not reducing spine width at each honing. This issue will take a pretty long while (repeated honing) before adversely effecting performance, but eventually it will.

Thanks a lot McVey, and all.

Def found my answer.

Ok, I did it!!

After having my cart and discount ready to go for mos, and then X'ing out- bc.. well 250$ for a razor? I finally pulled the trigger. Maybe it has something to do with the wife being out of town, maybe not.

I opted for the free shipping, so who knows how long that will take.

Chose the 7/8. I will shave with it until it tugs, and then send it out for a honing, probably without tape. If minimal spine wear can be done.

Have many of of you guys converted the tape bevel to a no tape bevel?

Congrats! Nice score!

Free shipping! I mean, how could you NOT buy it then!

Thanks

I know right!

And guess what, their free shipping turned out to be 3 day USPS priority. I'll get to shave with it before my three day stretch!

isi07734 said:

Chose the 7/8. I will shave with it until it tugs, and then send it out for a honing, probably without tape. If minimal spine wear can be done.

Have many of of you guys converted the tape bevel to a no tape bevel?

Click to expand...

IIRC none of my 3 Harts were what I would call "shave ready" out of the box. I mean they shaved, it was just uncomfortable. I ended up resetting the bevels and honing with two layers of tape. One to mitigate hone wear and the other for the secondary bevel during Unicot.

isi07734 said:

Chose the 7/8. I will shave with it until it tugs, and then send it out for a honing, probably without tape. If minimal spine wear can be done.

Have many of of you guys converted the tape bevel to a no tape bevel?

Click to expand...

I've done it a few times, not too bad on the hone wear.

We'll see if I get lucky with the edge today! If I can refresh it back with film i'll have to send it out. My skills aren't enough to set a brand hew Hart bevel without making something uneven or wrecking the spine.

Noel, will you continue using tape on your Harts?



Posted same time as you Doc, and haha, why does that no surprise me

Your edge on my 1st 3 straights was what put me into the deep hole

Well,

It def wasn't as sharp or smooth as I was hoping. I'll pick up some tape, and try touching it up- and if that doesn't work ill send it out for a bevel and up job. The question will be, if it needs a new bevel should I tape or not? Without my ruining it by over honing, I'm not too concerned with spine wear... but I read they used tape to make a smaller bevel, which I read is a good thing..