Thoughts on Pre-Shave

OK, I am a recovering engineer, so bear with me. Remember anything worth thinking about is worth over-thinking (especially on B&B!).

I'm a little puzzled about pre-shave treatments. I have read about all sorts of lotions and potions being used for this, and even applying same between passes. Some recommend leaving a substantial amount on the face before applying lather from shaving soap/cream, essentially mixing them together

If this is done to provide additional lubrication: If one has a good-performing soap/cream, why is this needed?

If done to hydrate/soften the beard: is it really necessary, if one just uses [gasp] a lot of water to do that? After a hot shower and shampoo, it seems to me that one's face/beard are very well hydrated.

Back in the days when I used a Mach3 (may it rest in peace) and shaving was a chore, I just washed my face, rinsed and left it wet, and applied the lather and shaved.

Then, enter B&B...and all the aspects of "traditional" shaving. And suddenly aware of the rituals of this activity -- and sub-rituals like "pre-shaves" -- I jumped right in.

I really didn't want to apply another complex unknown substance to my facial skin before scraping it with a blade. So, after some (over)thought, I opted to use Noxzema, something that's been around for years, and with which I was familiar -- and liked!

Then I saw that someone posted a video of a barber just lathering up the shavee with the shaving soap to be used and applying a hot towel, then wiping any residue and then lathering and shaving as usual. That led me to this: I wash my face and re-lather with that soap (Tom's of Maine Sensitive Natural Beauty Bar Soap with Soothing Chamomile) and leave that lather on for a while.

Both of these methods employ massaging the substance into the beard, and then applying a hot wet towel. When I am ready to lather up with shave soap, there really is no visible residue.

My observations: Both of my methods are pleasant (gotta love a hot towel!), and don't seem to interfere with the shaving soap. But I don't notice any discernible difference between them as regards performance. Since most/all of the pre-shave substance is essentially removed/dissolved/transmogrified by the hot wet towel, I wonder what lubricating effect the substance has...I can't honestly say I notice any change in performance of the shaving soaps I use.

My conclusions: I will continue with my (hot wet towel with Noxzema or Tom's) pre-shave treatment, simply because it has become a pleasant part of my shaving ritual (and...I do like the fragrance of Noxzema!), and it has no negative effects.

I recognize this is surely a YMMV issue, so I expect/welcome personal opinions on this. But my (recovering engineer) mind would be interested in some scientific/logical input as well.

Thoughts?

This is my current focus as well. The oil is for people like me, who have oily skin. It's at LEAST an oil cleanse, cleaning the cheese out from the follicle so hair can be easily extracted: more exposed to the brush's hydration and the blade's cut. I think that best justifies the hot cloth.

I watch barbers, too. They take it up a notch by working it into an emulsion, and I think that's where the hydrating power lies. I'm still not going to buy a special pre-shave, but I've taken to working in a pinch of baking soda with a splash of water.

The appropriate cleansing differs with skin type. I like cetaphil, and it doesn't require heat to do the trick. Noxzema is a bit harsh for me, but it sure works. Glycerin soap is for dry skin. It hydrates me too deep, swelling the dermis painfully.

I used to use AOS and badger preshave oils but have gotten away from them, mostly because of how they gunked up my brush. on straight razor days, I use the proraso menthol preshave stuff, and I've never straight razor shaved without some kind of preshave, so I couldn't tell you how it goes without it. What I can tell you is that for me, there seems to be a psychological element to it. When I started DE shaving, I was really afraid of cutting myself, and it just felt like the oil was another layer of protection. now, with my SR shaves that menthol stuff, (sorry, don't know what color the container is,) makes me feel like I'm getting a small layer of protection, but I can see myself moving away from it someday.
P.S., I'm glad you over think things as an engineer. I have a degree in pure mathematics, and I'd be lying if I told you that I don't think of my shaving angle in terms of Frenet frames some times while I shave.

You have acknowledged your tendancy to over-think stuff, so that is good. It's the first step to recovery! Always remember that this is only shaving. No lives nor anyones' sacred honor are at stake.

All I can say is I bought Proraso pre-shave cream when I started. Seemed to make sense to me. I used it a few times and it did not make any difference in the shave for me. I wish now I had saved that $13.50 or spent it on something else.

Others here really like this product or use Noxzema or various pre-shave oils and swear by them.

To each his own and YMMV.

I'm just staring to settle into a routine that works for me (finally). Here's my YMMV input.

• Water / long shower - This alone really isn't enough for my coarse hair. It works fine when I'm shaving every other day, but my hair is way too stiff on 24 hours of growth to get a comfortable shave without additional prep.

• Oils - They definitely helped with nicks and weepers, but didn't soften the hairs, or provide any additional glide during the shave itself. I discontinued these because I have oily skin and battle folliculitis. The dermatologist said to stay away from them.

• Pre-Shave Lather - I actually tried this yesterday. I showered in the morning, but waited until late afternoon to shave. I didn't want to take another shower, so I did a single hot towel for about 5 minutes. Then lathered up and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Rinsed it off and relathered to go about my shave. It didn't seem to provide any improvement for me over a shower alone.

• Noxzema - It definitely seemed to soften the hair well, but it was counterproductive for the nicks and weepers. It seemed to dry my face out a little too much. In hard water, it also leaves more residue on the tools. And I don't like the way it can conflict with the scents of my soaps.
• Corn Husker's Lotion / Glycerine Soap - Corn Husker's lotion is primarily glycerin and water, so in theory, it should be equivalent to some of the glycerin pre-shave soaps. I tend to get the same results using this as I do with the oils, except that my dermatologist approves of the CHL. The exception is that if I leave it on for about 10 minutes before shaving, it seems to soften the hair a little as well. It protects well by hydrating the skin, but doesn't make the shave noticeably better unless I let it work for quite a while prior to shaving.
• Softening Hair conditioner. I'm a head shaver, so recently I started experimenting with the addition of a softening hair conditioner in the shower as an added pre-shave step. It needs to be softening, not strengthening from what I've read. I've had very good results with this. This seems to do a much better job than anything else I've tried in softening the hairs.

My routine now is
-Hot shower
-Benzoyl Peroxide wash while in shower
-Softening Conditioner while in shower (leave in for 3 minutes)
-Cold Rinse
-Corn Husker's Lotion, rub in well
-Build lather, wet hair, and lather up and shave.

Opinions are all over the map about pre-shaves, and I'm not different. I use pre-shave oil (currently using Pacific Shaving Company, one of my favorites). There is an old thread somewhere in the ether about exactly what pre-shave oil does. If I remember correctly, I think it may have been written by a dermatologist, or one of the responders was one. What it said in a nutshell is, the oil is absorbed into the skin and "locks" moisture to the skin. It doesn't provide a protective barrier, as some people say, and it doesn't interfere with lather, as others say. What it does do is make the skin less likely to get cut, which is due to the moisturization. That doesn't mean you can't get cut, you still can.

While the jury is out on whether any of it is true or not, I do know that I get a closer, more comfortable shave, with less (or no) irritation when I use pre-shave oil. I've also used pre-shave soap with good results. I do shave after I shower, and I prep my face with plenty of hot water and wash with an activated charcoal soap (I have fairly oily skin and am prone to breakouts, even though I'm in my 50's). So, the pre-shave may indeed be overkill, but I think it works for me!

Been there, done that, gave it up as useless.

I wash my face vigorously with my hand, hot water and Ivory soap. When I'm lathered up, at about 45-60 seconds, I put blade to face and start my WTG pass. Rinse, apply canned goo (Foamy) and make my second pass. Rinse, apply canned goo, and go ATG. Since my hairs seem to go in all directions, I rinse, apply canned goo, and make a 4th pass, trying to angle it to go ATG on the remaining hairs.

I live in the desert. My hair on my head gets dry. If all I did was rinse it, it wouldn't hydrate very well. But if I add a little shampoo and rub, the hair on my head goes limp in seconds. I don't understand why I would put ANY oil on my face first, since I want to get rid of oil and let the water soften the hair before shaving.

And yes, I think most pre-shave rituals are there to comfort the shaver, not to help prepare the face for shaving.

All I do is splash hot water on my face

SocalRick said:

Opinions are all over the map about pre-shaves, and I'm not different. I use pre-shave oil (currently using Pacific Shaving Company, one of my favorites). There is an old thread somewhere in the ether about exactly what pre-shave oil does. If I remember correctly, I think it may have been written by a dermatologist, or one of the responders was one. What it said in a nutshell is, the oil is absorbed into the skin and "locks" moisture to the skin. It doesn't provide a protective barrier, as some people say, and it doesn't interfere with lather, as others say. What it does do is make the skin less likely to get cut, which is due to the moisturization. That doesn't mean you can't get cut, you still can.

While the jury is out on whether any of it is true or not, I do know that I get a closer, more comfortable shave, with less (or no) irritation when I use pre-shave oil. I've also used pre-shave soap with good results. I do shave after I shower, and I prep my face with plenty of hot water and wash with an activated charcoal soap (I have fairly oily skin and am prone to breakouts, even though I'm in my 50's). So, the pre-shave may indeed be overkill, but I think it works for me!

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Yes, I wrote a post about that some time ago.

The theory of pre-shave oil is to give your skin an added layer of protection before applying a shaving soap or cream lather. Also, it acts as a lubricant and helps the razor glide over your skin. Additional benefits of pre-shave oil are that it moisturizes the skin and protects your skin from razor burn or irritation. Pre-shave oil is one of those things that is an individual thing. As you may find out some on B&B think it is a waste of time and others think it helped them get a better shave. Some say it clogs their razor and ruins brushes. I have one brush that is more than 20 years old and has never been ruined by pre shave oil. Further, I have never had any razors clog up with the oil.

My advice is if you think you need it, try it and judge for yourself.

I had been shaving for many years before I tried pre shave oil. My oldest son gave me a gift basket from T&H and one of the items in the basket was their pre shave oil. I tried it and liked it. I felt it made my shave smoother. I bought it one more time and then tried my own recipe and used that for a while. Now I use is on rare occasions usually when I am shaving a second time because of an unexpected evening engagement.

One thing I have noticed, however, is that the soap I currently use (Neutrogena Men Invigorating Face Wash) makes my face feel the same as if I had used a pre shave oil. My face becomes smoother than if I use regular soap and water.

PMT said:

All I do is splash hot water on my face

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+1. Although I use cold water. I'm old and crusty, but i will repeat my opinion about pre shave products. I have no use for these products and the whole discussion is a bunch of Cr#p. I have observed that, as our members develop sound shaving technique, the need for pre shave products vanish. Just use water and then lather properly.

Gus

I use Proraso pre-shave, White and Green. I feel they make a difference and help me achieve a closer more comfortable shave...

With regards to pre-shave oil, I've recently obtained a few small bottles of pure oils. Tried Almond oil today, which worked very well... Having said that, feel it's an idea to add some context here; my routine is as follows
hot shower - door closed to keep steam in - face scrub - conditioner on hair & beard - rinse well - out of shower, dry everywhere except face - rub on PSO - hot towel on face - put brush and lather bowl into v hot water - remove excess water from brush - lather cream in bowl - apply lather - shave.
using PSO on a wet face seems to create for me (ymmv) a barrier to kind of seal water in, further softening whiskers

I think preshave products soften my beard more than the shower alone does, but it is fairly subjective. I like oils the best, but I think some of that is just that I like the scent of Stirling Lime preshave oil.

Pre-shave for me is a wash.

Everyone is going to have a different "routine". Some of us are lucky in that we can do just about anything and still come out with a nice comfortable close shave. Others need a little more prep to get there.

Bottom line.....

If it works for you. It is the right thing to do.

turtle said:

Everyone is going to have a different "routine". Some of us are lucky in that we can do just about anything and still come out with a nice comfortable close shave. Others need a little more prep to get there.

Bottom line.....

If it works for you. It is the right thing to do.

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Agreed...I'm not a oil user. But Ymmv.

I've been a long time Noxzema Cleansing Cream pre-shave user. Recently I began substituting this product in place of it. I rub a small amount into my wet whiskers, brush lather my favorite soap or cream overtop. I complete my first pass, rinse in cold water and repeat the process. Great results an without the Noxzema smell to masks the fragrances of your shaving soaps.

http://www.neutrogena.com/product/neutrogena+men-+sensitive+skin+shave+cream.do?sortby=ourPicks

The old school barber manuals say you want use a soap with alkaline properties to wash away the oils and strip away the hard outer surface of the hair a bit and help the hair to stand up to be whacked clean by the blade. I use a warm wash cloth and a little Noxema to clean and hydrate my face (prefer to shave before shower) rinse with warm water, face lather and hit that first pass. The brush and cleansing / warming action help prepare for the perfect shave. You can just wash your face with Ivory and cold water and get a similar effect before lathering the warm shave soap. Apparently the alkalinity is the key...softening agents like hair conditioner make the whisker bend down, softened, and are counter-indicated, as the blade hits it sideways and not as cleanly as it would with the whisker standing up.

i really like proraso sensitive skin pre shave cream. It feels good on the face and i find it helps with the shave