I don't know about the OP but I have found that some are almost falling off by themselves. Others need a lot of coaxing. With the really stuck ones I use a heat gun. Sometimes it works. But I always scan the old label in to make a new one in the event that the old one has to be destroyed.
VIntage wood soap bowl restoration and partial tutorial.
- Thread starter Pinan
- Start date
Beautiful! I might have to try this. Thanks!
Great work, the finished product is fantastic!
I have a few wood bowls which need to be restored, some have clear coating on them (which I'll lightly sand with 800 thru 1200 grid) some are raw wood.
Question, has anyone tried using Howard Butcher Block Conditioner to coat them, instead of Tung Oil?
The BB conditioner has food grade penetrating mineral oil and natural bees waxes in it, which protects the wood from moisture and bacteria build up, it's also used to coat wooden salad bowls. I picked up a 12oz bottle at Home Depot and barely used it on my BB table, so instead of letting the bottle sit for years, I wanted to see if it would work for this application for a duration of a puck or will I be wasting my time?
Also, on this subject, will it work on a wooden shave brush handle?
I have a few wood bowls which need to be restored, some have clear coating on them (which I'll lightly sand with 800 thru 1200 grid) some are raw wood.
Question, has anyone tried using Howard Butcher Block Conditioner to coat them, instead of Tung Oil?
The BB conditioner has food grade penetrating mineral oil and natural bees waxes in it, which protects the wood from moisture and bacteria build up, it's also used to coat wooden salad bowls. I picked up a 12oz bottle at Home Depot and barely used it on my BB table, so instead of letting the bottle sit for years, I wanted to see if it would work for this application for a duration of a puck or will I be wasting my time?
Also, on this subject, will it work on a wooden shave brush handle?
Bravo Sir well done !!
They look great. Job well done.
These are gorgeous. Love this!
- Thread starter
- #28
Thank you everyone. I appreciate your comments! 
Regarding the removal of stickers: Some of them I could simply peal off very slowly, due to the aged glue. The very old Yardley's (green label) were either very easy, or very difficult because they are so thin. On most of them I just get the label itself wet and slowly remove them with a tiny putty type knife, used to open tablet cases.
The newer Yardley's (white labels) used thicker paper, but stronger glue, so......could also go either way.
Non Yardley's were mostly easy to remove. I don't soak the tops though nor steam them as some can warp very easily and can be impossible to true-up again.
I too scan all of mine before removal like skeezixx mentioned above and I've hunted the internet for good clean close-ups of others. Several of them I had to fix/recreate in Photoshop due to tears and missing pieces. I will post some of these examples when I can. Those are LOTS of work, but rewarding.
I have about 40 of these bowls, mostly with new soaps inside. I will say that most of them lather very well and make for great shaves!
Regarding the removal of stickers: Some of them I could simply peal off very slowly, due to the aged glue. The very old Yardley's (green label) were either very easy, or very difficult because they are so thin. On most of them I just get the label itself wet and slowly remove them with a tiny putty type knife, used to open tablet cases.
The newer Yardley's (white labels) used thicker paper, but stronger glue, so......could also go either way.
Non Yardley's were mostly easy to remove. I don't soak the tops though nor steam them as some can warp very easily and can be impossible to true-up again.
I too scan all of mine before removal like skeezixx mentioned above and I've hunted the internet for good clean close-ups of others. Several of them I had to fix/recreate in Photoshop due to tears and missing pieces. I will post some of these examples when I can. Those are LOTS of work, but rewarding.
I have about 40 of these bowls, mostly with new soaps inside. I will say that most of them lather very well and make for great shaves!
WOW! Very cool indeed!!! 
I used Penetrol by Flood on any wood products I restore. I put a coat on and before it dries, I put a second, then a third. After the third coat dries, depending on the finish I might sand it again depending on the the feel. If it needs more protection after that, I'll mix it at least 50/50 with polyurethane.
The Penetrol soaks into the wood better than anything I have ever used, and won't peel or flake later.
I learned this technique while doing wood working and ships and boats which are exposed the the harshest environments that can be thrown at wood. If you try this I doubt you will be sorry.
The Penetrol soaks into the wood better than anything I have ever used, and won't peel or flake later.
I learned this technique while doing wood working and ships and boats which are exposed the the harshest environments that can be thrown at wood. If you try this I doubt you will be sorry.
- Thread starter
- #31
Tips are always welcome. Thank you, Shawnboy.
FYI. The Formby's soaks through the bowls immediately too. If I do the inside only, it is already seeping through to the outside. It just goes right through the grain. That stops after the 2nd or 3rd coat. Even the hardwood bowls, which I prefer.
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I will give Formby's a try on my next project. I'm always willing to try something new and the way your finished projects look, I can't / won't argue the results.
Absolutely lovely restoration work - Well done.
- Thread starter
- #35
As promised, here are four labels that I restored in Photoshop. This is painstaking, pixel by pixel work, but they look so much better it's worth it.
The College Club was very thin, and had been taped onto the bowl when new. Although already in poor shape, removing it tore it up more. The Woodbury label popped off easily.
Both took over 2 hours each (yeah, I know) to fix. There may be a faster way, but I don't know what it is. Too much detail for shortcuts. All were scanned, fixed, then printed on Avery 8164 shipping labels.
At any rate, I hope you enjoy.
Both bowls are fully restored and in rotation. The soap in each was unused.
The College Club was very thin, and had been taped onto the bowl when new. Although already in poor shape, removing it tore it up more. The Woodbury label popped off easily.
Both took over 2 hours each (yeah, I know) to fix. There may be a faster way, but I don't know what it is. Too much detail for shortcuts. All were scanned, fixed, then printed on Avery 8164 shipping labels.
At any rate, I hope you enjoy.
Both bowls are fully restored and in rotation. The soap in each was unused.
this makes me want a new wooden bowl amazing
Great looking pieces here. Thank you for sharing!
If you really do want a new bowl, I saw some on the ACE ebay store while ordering knot over the last weekend. I was tempted to buy one.
Fantastic work on the labels!
Wonderful work, but, now I don't like my bowls as much as I used to 
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