Just started but unsure

Blade angle, no pressure, having a good blade and a good lather for slickness... those are the keys that are repeated over and over, and for a good reason.

Blade angle: the guard and the head of the razor are what should make contact with the skin, the blade should technically never really touch or scrape against the skin, it's about getting to the point that the blade cuts the hair that sticks out without pulling the hair or skin. NOTE: from what I've read on here, there's a LOT of razors that appear to be weak in this area and they leave too much of the blade sticking out. I know that I have razors that doesn't hold the blade as well as it should and it's like the blade can feel like a guitar string if it gets caught.



No pressure: you should be able to let the weight of the razor do the work, if there's pulling, either the angle is off or the blade isn't sharp enough.

Good blade: you shouldn't even feel like you're cutting anything, it should feel like you're just removing the lather with a razor that doesn't have a blade in it. If the blade you're using has never felt like this, try another one, try to see if it's the blade or your technique that's the issue, even for a new person, the blade should feel comfortable even for a bit of the shave. (Astro SP is a standard recommendation for an overall good blade on average)

Good lather: it is NOT about how thick and fluffy you can make foam, lather is not foam, it's the creaminess that you want, a good lather will make the razor slide like soft butter on a hot pan, like a skate on wet ice, it should be wet without being drippy, it should make the hairs soft and easy to cut. It should be thick enough but not so that it gums up the blade/razor and it should rinse off instantly under water... it's main job is to make your razor glide by providing a slick layer on your skin that doesn't prevent the blade from cutting at the edge of the skin's surface. If you aren't getting this from the soap you're using, try another one. (Proraso is highly recommended)

I always looked at those commercials where the guy would slide the razor across the face super fast and have a perfect trail across his face... and I'd wince, believing that it was impossibly to do that... and with a cartridge it was impossible (a bit of growth and the razor would be clogged near instantly), but with a DE, it took a while but now, I can shave with such speed that I'd probably scare most (like I used to be).

The only time I get any irritation now... bad blade that I pushed one shave too many.

I took the advice of using the top of the guard and rotate my angle down slowly until it just glides as opposed to trying use the blade as the contact point. This felt more like I wasn't using a blade at all. I wasnt very consistent with this angle but thats probably confidence and learning a new technique. I experimented with my technique dividing my neck in half (left/right). I now can notice the technique difference. one side is nice, not BBS but no irritation, the other is a little irritated.

THANKS FOR THE HELP. I'm feeling good with this information and progress.

I am using a butterfly style DE and it opened/ came loose a little and i paid the price with a small cut.

Using a persona blue lab blade in a Parker 92R... tho I bought a merkur 34C and feel like thats more of the place to start.

I feel like there is a lot of blade exposure with my parker making me have to use an angle where the handle is close to perpendicular to my face than parallel.

Im using the red Proraso cream and I like it.

Again thanks for the help guys. Very encouraging.

I've been using a Parker 96R for years... I tend to just have the habit to loosen the doors when I rinse, then tighten right away and continue the shave.

I've never had a loose blade accident probably due to this.

As the Parkers TTO are the same heads and only different handles, I've compared mine to my Gillette and the blade gap and such I've found to be better with the Parker, as the Gillette does let the blade stick out a fraction more that gives that guitar string ting if it sticks.

One other big difference is the Gillette has a much more pronounced head, so it's a lot rounder, but it's again, lead me to have more trouble to have a good shave compared to the Parker.

I can't compare to the 3 piece razors as I just have no interest in non-TTO razors, but overall, each razor type will have a difference, and it really comes down to what works for you.

Personally, I can't see anything that could beat my Parker at this point, I find that the blade gap, shape, etc. is absolutely perfect, at least for me.

My personal technique does involve the buffing method, so I really can shave very quickly, get a BBS (or near) every time, and the only time I get irritation is due to a blade that I overused. Even after I'm done (if done right away) if I notice I missed something I can easily dry shave the section without issues. That's how important the angle is. (Compared the years of cartridge shaving that even under the best of circumstances I'd get irritation).

Dols said:

I took the advice of using the top of the guard and rotate my angle down slowly until it just glides as opposed to trying use the blade as the contact point. This felt more like I wasn't using a blade at all. I wasnt very consistent with this angle but thats probably confidence and learning a new technique. I experimented with my technique dividing my neck in half (left/right). I now can notice the technique difference. one side is nice, not BBS but no irritation, the other is a little irritated.

THANKS FOR THE HELP. I'm feeling good with this information and progress.

I am using a butterfly style DE and it opened/ came loose a little and i paid the price with a small cut.

Using a persona blue lab blade in a Parker 92R... tho I bought a merkur 34C and feel like thats more of the place to start.

I feel like there is a lot of blade exposure with my parker making me have to use an angle where the handle is close to perpendicular to my face than parallel.

Im using the red Proraso cream and I like it.

Again thanks for the help guys. Very encouraging.

Click to expand...

I love the Proraso red too.

Shaved last night and really focused on using no pressure, not going over the skin without lather, and made sure my blade angle was good. I used the advice given to me to start with the head and move down slowly towards the blade to ensure the angle is correct. I found it either told me I wasnt using enough of an angle or just right. I had such a great shave. My best one yet.

I did have a little issue with irritation and a nick on my moustache area but I feel that was an issue with not enough later during my XTG pass and probably my pressure on this pass. I've never had an issue with this area before so im not concerned.

I'm just having to remind myself to break old habit and form new habits with repetition. I'm making progress.

The red proraso leaves no slickness and im looking forward to trying some new soaps.

Dols said:

Shaved last night and really focused on using no pressure, not going over the skin without lather, and made sure my blade angle was good. I used the advice given to me to start with the head and move down slowly towards the blade to ensure the angle is correct. I found it either told me I wasnt using enough of an angle or just right. I had such a great shave. My best one yet.

I did have a little issue with irritation and a nick on my moustache area but I feel that was an issue with not enough later during my XTG pass and probably my pressure on this pass. I've never had an issue with this area before so im not concerned.

I'm just having to remind myself to break old habit and form new habits with repetition. I'm making progress.

The red proraso leaves no slickness and im looking forward to trying some new soaps.

Click to expand...

The mustache area is somewhat sensitive. .use more precise technique.

Welcome! Like anything... it takes time.

Welcome. With practice you will learn the grain of your beard, something I had never paid attention to before wet shaving...