New wet shaver and questions

Hi, so I am converting to wet shaving. I have all the essentials:

3 gillette razors (1964 flair tip ss, 1974(birth razor black handle ss, and a 1961 slim)....after getting one, i couldn't help myself!

Badger brush from whipped dog

Shaving soap/cream (co bigelow, cattie's bubbles, and taylor of bond street)

Musgo Real Lime Glyce Soap for pre-shave.

Questions:

I just started using the pre-shave soap and I think it's actually having the opposite effect i want...after using it, i'm getting razor burn something awful. I was to a point that i only had very mild burn on my neck, but the Mr Glow soap seems to be amplifying it. Anyone else experience this? I plan to quit using it and see if that is indeed the cause.

I have been focused on learning technique for about two weeks now...so i know i still have a lot to improve. I'm using the 64 ss (first one i got) and leaving the others aside until i've developed a solid technique.

My routine:

Hot shower (sometimes bath when i want to really relax).
Shave immediately after by:

1. i was washing with the glycerin soap first with a light rinse but i'm taking that out of the routine for above mentioned reasons.

2. Soak badger brush for a 1-2 min in hot tap water.

3. Load brush and lather in my lather bowl. (I think i'm getting a great lather. How do i know if it's too thick?)

4. Brush lather on in circular messaging motion for 1-2 min. Then level it out.

5. Shave wtg (again, the lather...sometimes I wonder if it's too thick as sometimes it feels like the razor doesn't want to push thru it well...more water in the lather?)

6. Rinse and re-lather

7. Shave xtg

8. Rinse re-lather

9. Shave atg except my lower neck..it gets a not quite wtg but not exactly xtg direction until my neck can handle atg

10. Rinse with cool/cold water

11. Rub alum block (should i rinse this off after 1-2 min? I've been leaving it on and apply aftershave (nivea sensitive skin balm) after 1-2 min.

Anything you think i can be doing differently to improve my shaving experience? I have never enjoyed shaving until doing it this way! I actually look forward to shaving!

Also, after every shave, i clean take out the razor and pat dry and gently brush the soap/cream off the razor with a toothbrush and hot water and then towel dry it and hang it up on the stand...is this over kill? I hate seeing the soapy scum stuff on the razor.

I thoroughly rinse my brush and brush it on a towel to help dry it...how often should i clean it and what is a good process to do this?

Sorry i wrote so much! Thanks for your guidance/assistance in making my wet shave experience the best it can be

Hello and welcome! I'm going to suggest a few videos by Mantic (Sharpologist has several videos). I also wrote a guide (see signature), if that helps.

You might be getting razor burn from doing 3 passes.

If you don't like glycerin soap, the alum probably isn't doing you any favors either. That's how it works with me, and I reason it is because my dermis has more than enough moisture in it already. Glycerin doesn't necessarily explode the tissue, but start picking at it with a sharp edge, and it splits more easily. Putting alum on in the end is like dry brining a plucked turkey. Keeping the moisture locked in isn't the problem; it's that this meat has living nerve endings.

Hello and welcome. Great to have you here. Be sure to use a shallow angle and low to no pressure. Also, two passes are enough. More passes = more opportunities for irritation.

I have watched several of mantics videos...very helpful.

I was getting good shaves (not perfect, but still good) with 3 passes before using the glycerin soap. It seems like the blade pulled more than glided after using the glycerin soap...even with a new blade. I will drop down to 2 passes but i'm also dropping the glycerin soap out of my routine altogether.

I was using the alum block before and i liked how it made my skin feel after the shave...kinda tightened it up sort of. I will continue to use it for now but i'll rinse it well with cold water after allowing it to be on my face a min or so.
I mAinly use a shallow angle. Sometimes i start too shallow even to where the blade isn't quite cutting. I slowly bring the handle down until i can feel/hear it cutting my whiskers.

Welcome to B&B! +1 leave it at 2 passes for now and I would suggest WTG only until you nail your technique. You'll feel a few rough patches but you'll be perfectly presentable for the day's business. +1 focus on ZERO pressure...in time you'll realize it's the key to a successful wet shave (it took me a couple months to figure this out).

Welcome to B&B.

DE shaving is different from cartridge shaving in that you must be sure you are not putting any pressure on the blade. Let the weight of the razor do the work for you. I use two fingers and my thumb to hold the razor with another finger resting on the tip of the handle. This results in holding the razor very lightly with no pressure on the razor. You want to hold the razor as lightly as you can without it falling from your hand. Take a look at the wiki. Also this post may help you. Finally, for blade angle, look here.

What you do after you shave can make a big difference in how fast your skin heals. First I take a wash cloth dipped in cold water and apply it to my face. Next I apply a splash of Thayers Rose Petal or Lavender WH. Thayers also makes an unscented WH. All are alcohol free and do not sting when going on but provide soothing relief. However, any WH will work. I then use a skin moisturizer or ASB to provide relief. There are a number of good products out there such as Nivea, Neutrogena, T&H, GFT, and others. Another good one that is not meant only for shaving but does an excellent job is CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion. Also, at night I put on a moisturizer – usually CeraVe – and that hastens the healing process and prepares my face for the next day’s shave.

You didn't write too much; The detail is very helpful. From your posts you are doing everything right and you have excellent shave gear. I suggest you keep going while watching angle and pressure (as mentioned) and you will see progress with experience in your techique. Allowing healing is always a good idea and trying 2 passes might reduce irritation.

+3 on WTG to start. Don't proceed to additional passes until you have a WTG shave without irritation. Videos on lather can help explain it better. If the lather is too thick it is the opposite of slick & wet shaving become dry shaving with irritation. Focus on blade angle & no pressure as mentioned above before moving on.

Welcome to the forum !!

Welcome to B&B!

BSAGuy said:

Hello and welcome. Great to have you here. Be sure to use a shallow angle and low to no pressure. Also, two passes are enough. More passes = more opportunities for irritation.

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+1 for this and much of the other posts.

In addition to this, I'd give you the best advice ever. Keep it simple! Change one factor at a time. Seems like you're already doing that by concentrating on your superspeed technique. I recommend doing this also with software.

My understanding of pre-shave soaps is that you're supposed to leave it on once you apply. And as far as application, you rub the puck directly on your face. No rinsing!

Good luck and have fun with it, don't overthink things.

Hello, welcome to B&B. We encourage questions. I agree with previous posts to help you.

coyotewhisper said:

Hello, welcome to B&B. We encourage questions. I agree with previous posts to help you.

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Exactly and welcome!

Ok, so i shaved tonight (i shave at night so i can relax and take my time and enjoy the whole process) without pre-shave soap. I just took a hot relaxing bath and washed my face with just hot water.

I used my 64 ss with persona blade with catie's bubbles soap. I tried using a little more h2o in my soap lather. The shave went better. I did 2 passes wtg, and xrg (except my neck, that was wtg only). The face is ccs but my neck not so much. I did take it extra easy on my neck since it had bad burn from the haves when i used the glycerin pre-shave. I'll probably hit it xtg next time since my neck should be healed up. I didn't have any noticeable burn tonight, though my neck isn't near as close as i'd like. But i know that will improve!

I'd definitely rinse the alum off after a minute at most. It's done its job by then. If you have sensitive skin at all, the astringent qualities could also cause irritation.
Any nicks or weepers you sort out with a styptic pencil, the tip of which you dab in some water first, before touching your face with it.

The way the grain of my neck goes, XTG on my neck is still too much. I do a pass from north to south and another about 45 degrees from that. Keep taking it slow and easy and make sure your lather is good before you even try to shave.

I've not had any wheepers...well i've gotten one once but it was minute and the cold water rinse did fine.

I try hard to use no pressure. The SS is pretty dang light and it seems hard to not have some pressure when shaving especially the neck...but i'm trying!

abragus said:

The way the grain of my neck goes, XTG on my neck is still too much. I do a pass from north to south and another about 45 degrees from that. Keep taking it slow and easy and make sure your lather is good before you even try to shave.

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Top half of my neck grows down and at an angle towards the ears.

Bottom half is almost sideways towards the ears. My neck is pretty symmetrical so at least it's consistent!