My first resto. J A Henckels 16.

So I bought this off the bay for the price if a couple six-packs. was in semi rough condition, scales were warped, cracked, broken, and actually flimsy... They felt like semi stiff leather but I know they weren't. they had been warped to the point that they were touching the entire length of the backside. There were a few smaller chips on the blade that came out easily and quickly on my 650g diamond stone.

Any way, here are the pics of it in the condition I received it.








Puled it apart, and buffed the blade a bit to clean it up. looking at my firewood I noticed that I had a number of pieces that had in my opinion a very nice curved grain pattern. I took a few pieces to my shop and ripped them into 1/4 inch thick pieces and simply traced the original scales onto the new ripped blanks. For the finish I tried to use CA, but on one of the scales it just was NOT working with me... the other scale came out great, but the one side... I sanded it off probably 3 different times to restart it and it just never looked good. So I went and tried Tung Oil... Learned a lot and discovered that instead of actual Tung Oil I ws using Tung Oil Finish... Oh well. this is all basically an experiment for me at this point. The Pivot hole in the blade was kinda largeish and I found that a brass rod 3/32 was the perfect fit. a few 2.5mm stainless steel washers from my RC Car parts box and this is what I ended up with....



For a wedge I used a piece of oak so that it would be a touch lighter than the scales for contrast.



I need to do a little more peening on the pins, but I dont have a ball peen hammer... Im using a small hammer that my son had... its pretty small as far as claw hammers go, but freaking huge as far as this project goes... I am also thinking that the pins and washers are to large around... Looks a little awkward. The blade has to be gueded into the scales a touch or it hits one of the scale about 1/2 inch from the tip of the blade. I have no clue how to fix that or if it even can be fixed. if anyone has advise for me please let me know.

I already have another SR to work on next, a larger Sheffield that is going to get black canvas micarta scales with a red translucent wedge... But before I tackle that one I would love to sort this one out 100% first.

Thanks for looking.

Now Im heading back to my cage...

Looks pretty good. Hope my first is as nice.

Nice job . Lots of fun isn't it?
Don't worry about having a ball peen hammer. I don't use one and most like my pinning.
As far as off center blades it could be tension introduced when pinning, a slight twist to the scales or they're not flexing evenly, an off ground shaft, a bent hinge pin. Some can be worked out by adjusting the pinning depending on the severity and how tight the pinning currently is.
One other thing is you state the scales are 1/4 inch. They don't appear that thick but that would be quite heavy for wood which doesn't allow the scales to flex properly. This could lead to some issues as well. 1/8" would be more in line.

also. Most pinning is 1/16 th rod with #0 washers. If you're trying to fit a pin to the size of the hole in the shaft this too could be the reason for the blade hitting the scales. And with a pin 3/32 is why the washers look large to you. Don't worry about the size of the hole in the shaft. Some are crazy big. Some will try to fill them and redrill it or use hollow brass rods to make them smaller. There is no real reason for doing this and at times will lead to problems like you're experiencing if the hole isn't absolutely perpendicular to the center line of the blade. Some slack there can be a good thing. It will allow the blade to center itself based on the surfaces of the shaft against the scales rather than tryin to pivot around the pin . If the pin hole is off trouble will arise.

I ripped the wood to 1/4 to begin with. then after judicious working on my belt sander I thinned them to about 1/8. I should have been more clear about that. I cant really use my table saw to rip a piece of uneven shaped fire wood into 1/8 inch pieces.

Ok, I think I may just unpin the thing and re-pin with 1/16 brass rod. I will fill the holes in the scales currently with epoxy and re-drill them after it dries. I thought I needed to match the pin to the pivot hole in the tangs diameter so the blade didn't wiggle back and forth. but I guess if its pinned nice and tight with the thrust washers inside that wouldn't be an issue...

So... Back to the drawing board with this razor I guess. And yes. It is fun. I meddle with all sorts of things both wood and metal and do enjoy it.

Glad to know it is enjoyable for you. Simple as they may seem with so few parts there are certain glitches to consider. I do hope you don't take my comments as being critical . I only offer them as points to consider when building razors. A thing here a detail there can add up.

For or the first time out, you did a fine job. And I didn't think the scales looked near 1/4". Not sure of the size of your beginning stock but I'm sure you know by squaring at least one , but preferably two faces you can control cuts more easily.
I'm looking forward to your next one !

Look man, Ive browsed your site many many times. any and all comments, critiques or advise you give me is very much appreciated. Im thankful that you would take the time to help me out here.

I ended up unpinning the blade and took out the washers I had put in it. went through my RC Car parts box again and found some thinner/smaller washers and used my norton stone and thinned them even more. re worked the pin holes in the scales a touch and re-pinned it. thing closes centered now. looked at the washers I had used inside it a little closer and noticed that one was thickier in one side than the other which may have been knocking the blade off center.

as to the wood ripping... well it was a piece of wood cut for my fireplace so about 15 inches by 6 by 10. wedge shaped. I basically messed around getting a couple edges squared and then started taking out strips. thinnest that I could set my fence was 1/4. the saw I was using is a huge industrial unit and not really designed to work on small pieces. One whole side of the table is on rollers and is set up to hold an entire sheet of plywood while allowing one person to slide it through the blade... not really designed to do small delicate cuts. I was counting myself lucky to be able to get 1/4 inch pieces out of it honestly.

Im happy where this razor is at now, and already planning out my next attempt. Just waiting for my scale material to show up in the mail...

That's very nice work. Complete transformation. Congrats.

schollianmj said:

Look man, Ive browsed your site many many times. any and all comments, critiques or advise you give me is very much appreciated. Im thankful that you would take the time to help me out here.

I ended up unpinning the blade and took out the washers I had put in it. went through my RC Car parts box again and found some thinner/smaller washers and used my norton stone and thinned them even more. re worked the pin holes in the scales a touch and re-pinned it. thing closes centered now. looked at the washers I had used inside it a little closer and noticed that one was thickier in one side than the other which may have been knocking the blade off center.

as to the wood ripping... well it was a piece of wood cut for my fireplace so about 15 inches by 6 by 10. wedge shaped. I basically messed around getting a couple edges squared and then started taking out strips. thinnest that I could set my fence was 1/4. the saw I was using is a huge industrial unit and not really designed to work on small pieces. One whole side of the table is on rollers and is set up to hold an entire sheet of plywood while allowing one person to slide it through the blade... not really designed to do small delicate cuts. I was counting myself lucky to be able to get 1/4 inch pieces out of it honestly.

Im happy where this razor is at now, and already planning out my next attempt. Just waiting for my scale material to show up in the mail...

Click to expand...

Ah! So glad to hear all of the above . Being a woodworker I'm familiar with panel saws.
Need anything ( washers?) let me know. Now get back to playing! That's what I'm doing as we speak.
BTW. Shim washers aren't really necessary. And as you've seen if you do use them be sure they're the same thickness and rather wide. The only time I'll use them is if I have a really nice decoration on the shaft or usually on triple pin razors such as DD's. If it's on a razor where they won't be seen I lean towards poly or plastics. Brass and bronze are quite a ways apart on the galvanic scale so I don't like to use them if possible. Break down enough razors and you'll see the reasons why.
But on restorations such as DD Satins where they can be seen I'll stick to the original style to keep it original looking. Let's face it . They'll most likely be babied anyway with little chance of water finding its way in there. And oiling isn't a great option for me as the washers tend to reduce friction to the point the blade swivels almost too easily. Oil makes it worse.