Woodturnerscatalog razor and brush kits

Has anyone used these? I would love to give them a try. How is the quality?

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/58/6203/Artisan-Classic-Safety-Razor-Kit
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/58/5937/Artisan-Premium-Badger-Shaving-Brush-Kit

Never tried them but the razor kit looks great. I like the looks of it over other kits I've seen. I wonder if the threading is the type that'll fit old Gillette heads and stuff.

I haven't tried these yet. Woodturning is a my go-to hobby (pens, segmented bowls). I'll need to do some research before I buy the brush kit. I'm not sure how the wood handle will hold up to water/lather. I'll have to figure out what finish to use. I don't think simple friction polish (use this on my bowls) will work. I don't want to learn the hard way and ruin a nice piece of Cocobolo.

G2No said:

I haven't tried these yet. Woodturning is a my go-to hobby (pens, segmented bowls). I'll need to do some research before I buy the brush kit. I'm not sure how the wood handle will hold up to water/lather. I'll have to figure out what finish to use. I don't think simple friction polish (use this on my bowls) will work. I don't want to learn the hard way and ruin a nice piece of Cocobolo.

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That's the worry I have with wooden shaving items. You will need to choose a very waterproof finish. I'm thinking it would be best to go for an acrylized wood, as the acrylic will make the wood impervious to oils and generally more resistant to moisture, but it will still need a good finish.

I remember a while back, I saw some stabilized Bloodwood on eBay, and wondered what on earth someone would want it for. Now I kind of wish I could find stabilized curly Maple without any dyes. Lol.

FWIW, I've always used friction polishes for my pens, but a lot of woodturners use CA glue finishes. Those may work nicely if you also seal up the end grain.

I'd use CA glue without hesitation. It'd certainly hold
up to water better than anything else I can think of.

I stick with water resistant woods instead of trying to seal them. Like Bocote...

Very nice bberg! I couldn't find any information on the DE head in the Woodturner's Catalog. Any idea on the DE head's manufacturer?

bberg100 said:

I stick with water resistant woods instead of trying to seal them. Like Bocote...

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I wonder if it would be possible to find a cut of Lignum Vitae that was very attractive, in terms of aesthetic? Lignum Vitae was used to make blocks for marine applications, in the olden days. Very water resistant.

Well, I know zip about woodworking but for those prices I'll give them a shot. For giggles.... But that brush stand, i really like.

looks like good stuff.for the price you cant go far wrong.im going to get the brushstand after christmas to replace one i got from swmbo years ago and is losing its plating.

Mahogany is excellent at resisting water. Many ships masts back in the day were Cuban Mahogany. I believe many high-end pleasure boats have been made from mahogany as well. Honduran Mahogany (I believe the proper name is Big Leaf Mahogany) is readily available and widely used in the guitar industry, although I have heard tales of rising prices and dwindling availability. Although, guitar necks and backs/sides require much larger pieces of raw wood than a brush handle or razor handle.

Most of the time you don't have crazy figuring in mahogany, but I bet it'd make a really nice understated handle and resist rot about as well as any wood could.

PalmettoMan said:

Well, I know zip about woodworking but for those prices I'll give them a shot. For giggles.... But that brush stand, i really like.

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The prices really aren't too bad. Keep in mind that it's only hardware. If you have a lathe and some woodworking experience, your materials cost to make a handle is $1-$10, depending on what you make it out of. If you are paying someone to do it for you, the labor could get pricey. I see finished razors going for $100-ish on eBay/Etsy. Sets go for $150-$300.

G2No said:

Very nice bberg! I couldn't find any information on the DE head in the Woodturner's Catalog. Any idea on the DE head's manufacturer?

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I get mine from The Golden Nib. They are a Parker head and are very nice.

TropicalHotDogNight said:

I wonder if it would be possible to find a cut of Lignum Vitae that was very attractive, in terms of aesthetic? Lignum Vitae was used to make blocks for marine applications, in the olden days. Very water resistant.

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Yep.

bberg100 said:

View attachment 530041

Yep.

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That looks great! At first glance, it passes for Pau Ferro, Canary or even Cherry.

Yeh, I figured that in. I have enough tools and can borrow shop time from friends. It could take me a weekend or two. Then again maybe just a six pack to the right friend.

PalmettoMan said:

Yeh, I figured that in. I have enough tools and can borrow shop time from friends. It could take me a weekend or two. Then again maybe just a six pack to the right friend.

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One of the advantages of woodturning is instant gratification. It doesn't take long to turn small objects if you have some basic skills. I can knock out a pen in about 45 minutes. It's different than other woodworking projects (furniture), which can take many weekends.

Interesting link and new to me. Thanks for posting.

A woodworking friend suggested I use an epoxy finish for a wooden handle. System 3 epoxy applied with a foam brush, and sanded/buffed to a high gloss. Does that sound right? Anyone here with experience?

Tried epoxy, it softened and hazed when I buffed it. Course it was hardware store grade, might have to try System 3 or another good brand. I frequently use several thin coats of CA, wet sanded and buffed to a wet look finish on stoppers, pens, etc. My hesitation with any finish on shaving items is at some point a crack or chip will let water in and the finish will start to peel. I know lots of folks use a finish and the piece looks great, maybe for decades, with proper care, but I prefer a no worry approach.