So im wanting to get a naniwa 12k to help maintain my edges. I know that it needs lapped before use and i thought about getting a norton lapping stone but they seem to be thought of in a poor light along with the naniwa lapping stones as well. I read where people are using wet dry sand paper on a flat surface but apparently for the 12k there was some of the media getting into the stone itself from doing this? I am about at my wits end over this and need some help! All i want to do is maintain my edges that are on my razors. What should i use to lap the naniwa 12k? I see that dmt 325 are popular but dont really know what they are..
For the love of all that is holy help me.
- Thread starter rammerjammer24
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Dmt 325 it's a diamond coated plate that's flat... I'd use that
Hmm, I'm hoping that somebody who knows more than I chimes in here.
I have used my DMT 600 on mine to lap it. It worked fine.
The 325 probably makes much quicker work of it
I have used my DMT 600 on mine to lap it. It worked fine.
The 325 probably makes much quicker work of it
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- #4
can someone link the correct one? its really confusing with their product line
My local ace hardware actually carries the dmts. That's where I got mine. maybe you can find one locally. There isa chat on the packaging. I believe the 325 might be blue?
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- #6
Also once i use the 325 what else needs to be done to the naniwa 12k? Anything? Or does it need something to smooth?
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- #7
i have an ace hardware locally i may swing in and check on that. Thanks
I don't think you need to do anything else after lapping it. I would suggest lapping it under running water to carry off the slough
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- #9
Ok i just read somwhere that it wasnt done just after the 325
I also use a DMT 325. It works very well as a lapping stone.
The DMT 325 is called the C or Coarse by them. For lapping a naniwa you'd probably want the 8" model.
http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8C-Dia-S...ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416810607&sr=1-3
XX is 120
XC is 220
C is 325
F is 600
EF is 1200
EE is 8000
There's a 4000 too, but I don't know the designation for it, Maybe XF?
That said, I'd suspect the issues with grit from wet/dry being lodged in a Naniwa 12k are vastly exaggerated. I've lapped hundreds of stones with wet/dry, and it's not a problem. Wash the stone well under running water, and wipe it with your fingers, a towel, a soft brush, etc. I've never had a problem with any stone capturing grit from the wet/dry. If you're not going to need the DMT for anything after leveling your Naniwa, I think it'd be a waste of money to buy it.
Lapping it with the 325 is for leveling it. Many stones such as hard arkansas and others are hard and resistant to wear enough that people want to polish the surface well beyond 325 grit. With synthetics such as the Naniwa's this is unnecessary. They wear quickly enough that the surface will polish itself quickly with use. Truth be told, you may not even need to level it. Sometimes they arrive plenty level. Others they don't. I definitely wouldn't invest in the DMT plate for this project until the Naniwa arrives. A lot of people make bold statements about what's necessary and what you need to do in order to hone and seem to be excellent at wasting people's money, but less skilled at what they're giving advice on.
http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8C-Dia-S...ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416810607&sr=1-3
XX is 120
XC is 220
C is 325
F is 600
EF is 1200
EE is 8000
There's a 4000 too, but I don't know the designation for it, Maybe XF?
That said, I'd suspect the issues with grit from wet/dry being lodged in a Naniwa 12k are vastly exaggerated. I've lapped hundreds of stones with wet/dry, and it's not a problem. Wash the stone well under running water, and wipe it with your fingers, a towel, a soft brush, etc. I've never had a problem with any stone capturing grit from the wet/dry. If you're not going to need the DMT for anything after leveling your Naniwa, I think it'd be a waste of money to buy it.
Lapping it with the 325 is for leveling it. Many stones such as hard arkansas and others are hard and resistant to wear enough that people want to polish the surface well beyond 325 grit. With synthetics such as the Naniwa's this is unnecessary. They wear quickly enough that the surface will polish itself quickly with use. Truth be told, you may not even need to level it. Sometimes they arrive plenty level. Others they don't. I definitely wouldn't invest in the DMT plate for this project until the Naniwa arrives. A lot of people make bold statements about what's necessary and what you need to do in order to hone and seem to be excellent at wasting people's money, but less skilled at what they're giving advice on.
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Why are Norton lapping stones considered poor? I have one ordered with my Naniwa stones and am now worried I made a mistake
The worry that some have, is that the Norton stone will not be perfectly flat from new (quality control issue) or because its a stone, it will wear 'out of flat' over time. The latter is more likely. Most prefer diamond plates because the surface does not wear away. If you aren't honing hundreds of blades, you will be fine with the Naniwas and Norton. Check the stones when you get them with a straight edge. Lap them if nesessary and keep on keeping on.
Thanks for the info. My parcel is at the post office. Will definitely check as soon as get home from work.
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- #15
I won't be honing hundreds of razors just maintaining what I have. How would I use w/d? I've read about putting the paper on thick glass but could I not go buy a price if tile and either use water underneath or tape to mame it stick then dras my grid and do it like that? Also what kind of paper should I use as far as grit and what kind?
I have a 12" floor tile that I checked at Home Dept for flatness with their levels & squares.
If it's a smooth top tile: the wet-dry will adhere to the tile pretty well once it's wet. I went with 320 grit but, in retrospect considering how non-flat my Naniwa was, I should have used lower grit.
If it's a smooth top tile: the wet-dry will adhere to the tile pretty well once it's wet. I went with 320 grit but, in retrospect considering how non-flat my Naniwa was, I should have used lower grit.
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- #17
How long did it take? Have any issues or advice as this is probably what I'll do
Draw out your grid on the surface in pencil and have at 'er. It took more than anticipated on the 8k stone but the 10k was ok. Take your time.
I drew the grid on a couple times since it washes off with all the water. Mine were both high in the center while a buddy's was the opposite on his 10k
I drew the grid on a couple times since it washes off with all the water. Mine were both high in the center while a buddy's was the opposite on his 10k
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- Thread starter
- #19
Just make sure even pressure and rock on huh?
After the grid is removed, put another scribble on the stone. If the stone is flat the second scribble will be gone in just a few strokes.
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