What's new

Feedback on routine

Hey everyone!

I just registered with B&B, after having lurked around here unregistered for about a week. Amazingly enough, I didn't discover the full extent of this site until recently. Previously I thought it only contained the odd review. It looks awesome!

This summer I bought a double-edged safety razor, and made the transition from cartridge shaving. I made quick improvements the first weeks, but then the development stagnated, and for a long time I would get semi-good shaves, though not BBS. I’ve since mixed up different methods, tried some different blades, but especially the neck area and the jawline has given me quite a headache (as it has for many, I’ve gathered). I kept getting razor burns on the neck. I’ve since transitioned to (a slightly modified version of) Kyle’s pre-shave routine, and the 4-pass shave. Now I get a closer shave, but I’m still having some problems with the neck area and a stinging sensation in the post-shave routine, and razor burns now and then.

So I though that I could post my routine here, and hopefully get some feedback and tips on what to change and how to improve. I’ve listed the different phases separately with a list of gear and products at the start. Hopefully this makes it easy to read.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.



PRE-SHAVE ROUTINE
This is a slightly modified version of Kyle’s pre-shave routine which I read here at B&B. I see that he avoids showering or washing his face in advance of the shave, but I’m not giving up my morning shower, so I’ve added a pre-shave oil to compensate for the loss of natural oils when washing my face and showering.

Product list
Baxter of California Daily Face Wash
D.R. Harris Marlborough Shave Soap
Truefitt & Hill Ultimate Comfort Pre Shave Oil
Mühle Black Fibre


1. I start of washing my face in hot water. I then apply the face wash, which I rub in and then rinse with water.
2. I get into the shower, wash my body and hair, while now and then showering my face in the hot water. Before I get out I make sure I shower my face for about 15-20 seconds. When I dry off, I keep my face wet.
3. I now lather up and start Kyle’s routine. I soak my brush in hot water, shake it a couple of times and squeeze out the excess water. I proceed soaking the soap in hot water as well, and swirl my brush in the soap for up to 10 seconds, before applying it to my face.
4. I rub the soap with my fingers for 2-3 minutes.
5. I soak a towel with hot water, get rid of the excess water and apply it to my face. I leave it here for about 2 minutes, before washing off the rest of the soap.
6. I apply a few drops of the pre shave oil to my face.


THE SHAVE
This is based on the 4-pass shave routine by guenron. It is especially during the horizontal passes on the neck I feel the most discomfort. The first horizontal pass is going ATG on my right side (on my left side it grows slightly different, and I’m not having as many problems on this side. The horizontal pass on this side is more in between ATG and XTG), and the second goes WTG. I also have problems with creating flat surfaces to shave, since my jawline is well defined, making the rest of the neck pretty arced. So I can’t be certain I have especially good shaving angle at this point. How can I train this?

I’m also uncertain about the lather, since I don’t have that much to compare it with. I feel I get a thick lather that covers my face, but it sometimes dries up during a pass. Other times it can be a bit see-through at the end of the paintbrush-strokes, but most of the time I feel it is good.

I’ve mostly used the Astra-blades. The Feather-blades I didn’t like very much, as I found them to harsh on the skin. I’ve only tried one Derby-blade, and first impression is worse than Astra-blades, although I’m going to give it a chance. I just bought a sample pack, so I have the Astra Superior Stainless, a couple of different Shark-blades (Super Stainless and Super Chrome) and Dorco New Platinum ST-301.

Product list
Mühle Rytmo
Mühle Black Fibre
Astra Superior Platinum / Feather Hi-Stainless / Derby Extra Super Stainless
D.R. Harris Marlborough Shave Soap

1. I start with lathering up. I use the same lather that was created for the pre-shave routine, which has been standing on the shelf while doing the rest of my prep. When lathering I do circular motions over my face, with just enough pressure to make the brush hairs fold out. I then finish with paintbrush-strokes over my face to evenly distribute the lather.
2. I start with a N-S pass of the whole face, following guenron's procedure. The razor is run through hot water before the pass.
3. I wash off my face with hot water, and re-lather.
4. I continue with the first of the two diagonal passes on my cheeks (going from top of ear to bottom of chin), and the horizontal pass on the neck area (going from the outside in towards the middle). The razor is run through hot water before the pass.
5. I wash off my face with hot water, and re-lather.
6. I continue with the second of the two diagonal passes on my cheeks (going from bottom of chin up to top of ear), and the horizontal pass on the neck area (going from the middle out towards the outside). The razor is run through hot water before the pass.
7. I wash off my face with hot water, and re-lather. This time I squeeze out the rest of the lather after first having applied a thin layer, and use my fingers to distribute.
8. I finish with a S-N pass of the whole face. The razor is run through hot water before the pass.


POST-SHAVE ROUTINE
This has been constructed from reading around on different websites about skin care products, and watching videos by geofatboy and mantic59 on YouTube. I have an oily T-zone, but rather normal skin aside from that. After going over to the 4-pass shave, this procedure has been more uncomfortable, since the alum block, after shave and moisturizer stings more than it used to (before I could apply the after shave and moisturizer without feeling any stinging sensation).

Product list
Osma Alum Block
Baxter of California Herbal Mint Toner
Portland General Store Whiskey After Shave Splash
Baxter of California Oil Free Moisturizer

1. I wash off the rest of the shaving soap with cold water.
2. I then wet the alum block, and run it over my face. I leave this on for 30-60 seconds, while cleaning my brush, before I wash it off with cold water.
3. I dry off my skin, and apply the herbal mint toner using a cotton pad. I leave this and let it air dry for 30-60 seconds, while cleaning off the soap bowl and safety razor.
4. I shake the after shave bottle, and apply 4-5 drops to my face. I let this air dry for about 30-60 seconds.
4. I finally apply the moisturizer.
 
Hello and welcome. B&B is a great forum full of friendly, helpful shavers. You will learn a lot here.

Your routine looks pretty good to me. It is much more elaborate than what I do, but if it works for you, that's great. You did not say how your results are, so hard for us to know where you may have any holes on your routine.
 
Welcome to B&B. I too have a hard time going horizontal on my neck because I can't make a flat surface and when I tried anyway, I would get razor burn. This is what I did - I stopped shaving in that direction. I go pretty much straight N to S on the first pass, then S to N on the second. If I do a third pass which is very rare on my neck I will go NE to SW just so it is at a slightly different angle. No more razor burn on the neck. It worked for me, maybe it could for you.

Again, welcome to B&B, enjoy the journey.
 
Hello and welcome. B&B is a great forum full of friendly, helpful shavers. You will learn a lot here.

Your routine looks pretty good to me. It is much more elaborate than what I do, but if it works for you, that's great. You did not say how your results are, so hard for us to know where you may have any holes on your routine.

Thanks! The results are better now than before, though still not BBS on the neck or the jawline (also on the sides of my mouth, but that's not really a focus at the moment). But I'm left with a more stinging sensation on the skin (today's shave was actually quite horrible, almost excruciating pain when applying after shave splash). The razor burn doesn't seem to be correlated to to the stinging, as I can get a shave with almost no stining sensation, but lots of razor burn, or the other way around.

Welcome to B&B. I too have a hard time going horizontal on my neck because I can't make a flat surface and when I tried anyway, I would get razor burn. This is what I did - I stopped shaving in that direction. I go pretty much straight N to S on the first pass, then S to N on the second. If I do a third pass which is very rare on my neck I will go NE to SW just so it is at a slightly different angle. No more razor burn on the neck. It worked for me, maybe it could for you.

Again, welcome to B&B, enjoy the journey.
I would go for 2 to 3 pass as you get better. ..
Thanks! I'll try a two pass shave tomorrow, and see what how my results will be.


Welcome aboard, are you an engineer by chance, no offense!

Hehe, studying for a nanoscale engineering degree, yeah ;)
 
Thanks! The results are better now than before, though still not BBS on the neck or the jawline (also on the sides of my mouth, but that's not really a focus at the moment). But I'm left with a more stinging sensation on the skin (today's shave was actually quite horrible, almost excruciating pain when applying after shave splash). The razor burn doesn't seem to be correlated to to the stinging, as I can get a shave with almost no stining sensation, but lots of razor burn, or the other way around.



Thanks! I'll try a two pass shave tomorrow, and see what how my results will be.




Hehe, studying for a nanoscale engineering degree, yeah ;)

keep us updated.
 
Tried a two pass shave today. A lot less close (though I can walk out of my house), but still very painful aftershave treatment. I'm thinking of giving it a couple of days rest, before giving the Derby blade another chance. If it persists, I will go back to my Astras and see if it's still horrible.
 
Tried a two pass shave today. A lot less close (though I can walk out of my house), but still very painful aftershave treatment. I'm thinking of giving it a couple of days rest, before giving the Derby blade another chance. If it persists, I will go back to my Astras and see if it's still horrible.

Your skin is still getting used to the sharp blade. .. would pass on the after shave and use a cold towel instead. The cold would relieve the irritation which stems from the inflammation of the top layer skin.
 
Your skin is still getting used to the sharp blade. .. would pass on the after shave and use a cold towel instead. The cold would relieve the irritation which stems from the inflammation of the top layer skin.

Hm, but I haven't really had any problems (for months) with this until now. How long will it typically take before the skin is used to it? I'm starting to suspect the Derby blades aren't for me. Even though I was going to keep from shaving for a couple of days, I have to do a shave now in an hour or so. I'll use an Astra-blade, and see if that's better. If it is, I will give Derby one more chance before blacklisting.

Anyone have any experience with the Mühle Rytmo btw? Is it aggresive / mild in comparison to others? Could I benefit from trying another razor?

EDIT: To make it clear, the recent discomfort in the after-shave routine has come after trying out new shave regimes, which I've done because I wanted a closer shave. Previously, I didn't have any discomfort from the aftershave routine.
 
Last edited:
First off, if you're doing N-S and diagonal \ horizontal passes, you you're setting yourself up for pain. FOLLOW THE GRAIN OF YOUR BEARD, not arbitrary compass points.

Secondly, lose 90% of the crap you're doing. Lather. Let it sit on your face a couple minutes. With the grain pass. Relather, XTG pass. Rinse. Apply some sort of aftershave. Shower before or after, your choice. Done!
 
My post-shave routine includes a cold water rinse followed by an alum block. I let that remain for a few minutes than follow with another cold water rinse. An after shave product that I find very soothing is Neutrogena Triple Protection Men's Face Lotion. It has a decent but not overpowering scent. Plus it has SPF 20 sunscreen. It does a great job with soothing irritation. It can be found in drug stores, grocery stores, Wal-Mart, Target, etc.
 
Welcome to the B & B forum! Lots of shavers here with years of experience they are willing to share. I know you will enjoy the free exchange of information!
 
If you're getting burn on the neck it's mostly likely from too much pressure, bad angle, bad lather, or atg passes. Mapping your beard is essential for determining how to set up your passes. The general rule of thumb is wtg, xtg, atg; which removes more of the hair each pass. Depending on your beard, you may find that your wtg pass is s-n, e-w, or diagonal. For the jawline, try tilting your chin down instead of up. Also, stretching can cause irritation for some when shaving on the neck.
Welcome, and sorry for the book!
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
First off, if you're doing N-S and diagonal \ horizontal passes, you you're setting yourself up for pain. FOLLOW THE GRAIN OF YOUR BEARD, not arbitrary compass points.

Secondly, lose 90% of the crap you're doing. Lather. Let it sit on your face a couple minutes. With the grain pass. Relather, XTG pass. Rinse. Apply some sort of aftershave. Shower before or after, your choice. Done!


Big +1 Welcome to B&B Thug Life! :)


1. Knock off the pre shave wash. The shave soap will clean your face while you lather, It's soap!

2. Knock off the pre shave oil. Letting the lather sit on your face a couple of minutes as GWYM advised is enough pre shave. And won't clog your skin.

3. Knock off the Kyle's Routine. Nothing wrong with Kyle's routine, if you are just starting cold at the sink. But why do it after a long hot shower? way over doing it imo.

4.Knock off the 4-pass shaves. You are new. Shave like it. one pass with the grain, no pressure, do not try to be smooth. Just reduce the beard on the first pass. It really is about reduction shaving. If you feel daring? do a second pass xtg or atg, AND THEN STOP!

5. Knock off the Derby blades. People either love em or hate em, there are no in-betweens. Since your newbie technique and lack of experience won't let you know which camp you fall in? Knock off the Derby's and go back to them much later.

6. Your stinging? Could it be just from trying to get too close of a shave? You don't have to have skin irritation or redness to experience stings at the hair follicle, from just shaving too close when your skin has not adjusted to this way of shaving. Let no one tell you different.

7. Your post shave. Rinse your final pass lather from your face with warm water not cold. this will clear your skin of soap residue not trap it. Then rinse with cold. While wet, use your alum block, lightly, don't over do it! Let it set 15-30 seconds not 30-60. your newbie skin is getting mineral burns. Rinse again with cold water. Pat dry. Use your herbal toner with pad. It will clear any alum salt residue. I do the same as you with Witch Hazel. After it dries, splash on some aftershave. Make sure it is a aftershave with some soothing properties, not just scent & alcohol.

8. Keep it basic. Keep it simple, especially while learning. Your face will thank you instead of fight you. Remember, do not try and find BBS. When your ready, BBS will find you.
 
Great advice from all!

I started on the Derby and tried Feathers but now use the Astras - balances between sharpness, smoothness and longevity for me.

Don't worry about bbs and especially not a daily 4-pass. Sure some chaps can do it, but if it's not working for you................ I've not been shaving very long and daily I do 1x XTG on the cheeks and 1x WTG 1X XTG on the neck - DFS which is no different from a BBS unless you run againsts the grain. Oddly enough, only my wife and I rub my face and we both prefer a DFS and a happy Effy to a BBS and an irritated Effy!

I'm still playing with my pre-shave. I just wash with water a cloth, rehydrate while I get stuff ready for breakfast and while I mix the lather up. I used to use a pre-shave oil, which I might well try again to see how it goes.

I also shave with only cold water, like a fair few of the chaps on here. For us, it really helps to reduce irritation.

Welcome, and enjoy the blade.
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
Not sure I understand this.

Let me help you. The OP asked for people's advice. I am a person. I gave him my advice. Maybe, you should just give him your advice also, instead of trying to critique mine. Whatcha think?

I don't think the OP is dealing with such subtleties.

You're right, you didn't think. Let's let the OP decide what subtleties he is dealing with.
He knows himself better than you or I, agreed?


I could not have said it better!

No, I'm positive you think you could... ;)
 
Top Bottom