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First Straight & Straight Restore - Is this a good candidate?

Here's a razor I found that has been waiting for the right time to get some attention.
I'm new to straights and know little-to-nothing about them. Opinions and first-hand info on this manufacturer would be very helpful.

Does this look like a worthwhile restoration candidate?
The blade is tarnished with minimal rust, no chips, and the scales look fine, bone possibly...?

Before I spent much time on this I wanted to share some photos and get opinions.
Thanks.


GEORGE WOSTENHOLM & SON
Successors to George Wostenholm
Sheffield England

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I popped a pin and spent 10 minutes with some 600 grit on this.
Hoping it will help bring clarity to any responses.

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You are correct, those are bone scales.

The side of the blade with the logo on the tang doesn't look too bad - some pitting, nothing greaseless cutting/polishing compounds on a sisal wheel shouldn't be able to handle.

The other side look like it MIGHT be a little worrisome though. Hard to say without a picture that is a little closer and in better focus - bit the pitting on that side looks to be much deeper - which, for a perfect mirror finish, would mean a lot more work with the and, more importantly, removal of a lot more metal. That could end up significantly altering both the width and characteristics of the blade - especially since it looks like there is a thick patch of pitting right along the edge at the first 4-6mm of the blade.

Might not be as bad as it looks though... may just be the slightly unfocused photo.

That said, you have a few options:

  1. You could just polish it up a little by hand with some Maas or Flitz polish, put in some new scales, hone it, and use it as is.
  2. Restore it with greaseless compounds to a mirror finish that still has black/pitting spots present - e.g. a clean looking blade that still has original patina to it
  3. Restore it back to a complete mirror finish and accept the fact that that much cutting with the compounds may result in a blade that is less wide (e.g. a 6/8 blade instead of an 13/16 or whatever it may currently be)

It's a common a very common brand, so you won't be 'destroying' rare, high value blade if the restore goes wrong. By the same token, if it comes out fantastic it won't be worth hundreds of $, so you'll have to decide if it's still means enough to you for the time/money of a full-out restoration.

Whichever way you go, it should deliver some great shaves.
 
As a first step I would give that blade a two day soak in evaporust. Will remove the existing rust and put a stop to what is going on inside the pits. Then break out the sandpaper and go to town.
 
Great info - thank you both.
Right now a project is welcome and it doesn't have to be worth anything when I'm done.
Just hoping to enter the straight arena at a slow pace with a minimal budget.
 
I would go for option #2. Looks like a lot of tedious work to get to a total mirror finish, plus for me, with a razor that has acquired this much character, I think it is best to leave some for posterity.

Good luck with the project.

You are correct, those are bone scales.

The side of the blade with the logo on the tang doesn't look too bad - some pitting, nothing greaseless cutting/polishing compounds on a sisal wheel shouldn't be able to handle.

The other side look like it MIGHT be a little worrisome though. Hard to say without a picture that is a little closer and in better focus - bit the pitting on that side looks to be much deeper - which, for a perfect mirror finish, would mean a lot more work with the and, more importantly, removal of a lot more metal. That could end up significantly altering both the width and characteristics of the blade - especially since it looks like there is a thick patch of pitting right along the edge at the first 4-6mm of the blade.

Might not be as bad as it looks though... may just be the slightly unfocused photo.

That said, you have a few options:

  1. You could just polish it up a little by hand with some Maas or Flitz polish, put in some new scales, hone it, and use it as is.
  2. Restore it with greaseless compounds to a mirror finish that still has black/pitting spots present - e.g. a clean looking blade that still has original patina to it
  3. Restore it back to a complete mirror finish and accept the fact that that much cutting with the compounds may result in a blade that is less wide (e.g. a 6/8 blade instead of an 13/16 or whatever it may currently be)

It's a common a very common brand, so you won't be 'destroying' rare, high value blade if the restore goes wrong. By the same token, if it comes out fantastic it won't be worth hundreds of $, so you'll have to decide if it's still means enough to you for the time/money of a full-out restoration.

Whichever way you go, it should deliver some great shaves.
 
A good trick to clean up the black rust is to get some 0000 steel wool and non-abrasive polish (MASS or Blue Magic comes to mind). Tear off a 1" chunk of the steel wool and dp it in the polish. Go at the blade and handle. With a little elbow grease this will remove 99% of the black rust. This works especially well for getting the black out of the pitting.

Let us know which route you chose and how it turns out.
 
A good trick to clean up the black rust is to get some 0000 steel wool and non-abrasive polish (MASS or Blue Magic comes to mind). Tear off a 1" chunk of the steel wool and dp it in the polish. Go at the blade and handle. With a little elbow grease this will remove 99% of the black rust. This works especially well for getting the black out of the pitting.

Let us know which route you chose and how it turns out.

I have the steel wool, will try and source some polish this week.
Thanks for the tip - :thumbup1:
 
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