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Dulling to sharpen?

Would running the blade on glass flatten out any micro roughness on the edge?

So now I need a razor, a stone/film a vacuum cleaner. Boy this rabbit hole is deep!

I'm not sure what you call micro-roughness, but if you re-set the bevel correctly then there shouldn't be anything more to it. There's no reason why running the edge on glass would fix anything about the roughness of the shave.

And yeah the toughest part is getting the right lady to push the vacuum cleaner (now I'll go hide this post from my gf). ;)
 
well.... woodworkers use a vacuum to remove dust while cutting to make smoother cuts, what if we were to use a vacuum to remove swarf while honing, air molecules are smaller than water molecules, so should make a finer edge..... hhhmmmmmmm........
 
I've seen pictures with the edge is very rough. I don't know if this is micro chipping that you all are talking about.
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
Just Turn the bag up and hold it to your mouth. And if you spill any just use seraphims vacuum cleaner
 
I've seen pictures with the edge is very rough. I don't know if this is micro chipping that you all are talking about.

Well, in that case I'd just work on setting the bevel until these chips, microchips, or Pringles disappear (should be fast if we're dealing with Pringles)

When its all nice & uniform, then you can step up to the next grit/nagura/film or whatever!
 
But Seraphim, how else will I know if my edge is being sharpened? Er....I mean my floor is being cleaned? Mew, mew, mew....

That's right!

Be sure to make a mess first of all!
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If your wife complains, tell her "Seraphim said I should!"

Dull that razor first before to try and make it sharp!

Before walking out the door in the morning, be sure to take 5 steps backwards first...you never can be too careful! You want to ensure that you know that you wanted to head out the front door, not just that you happened to go out that way. You may want to make it 7 backwards steps just to be clear on the matter.
 
Would running the blade on glass flatten out any micro roughness on the edge?

So now I need a razor, a stone/film a vacuum cleaner. Boy this rabbit hole is deep!
Most likely not.
But because you need to take out more metal now to get back to a bevel, your chances of having micro-dents are lesser.

Now, I maintain my stance on just using magnification to check for serration and not dulling the blade, unless you also want to scratch your hone with a nail before you lap it.
 
Most likely not.
But because you need to take out more metal now to get back to a bevel, your chances of having micro-dents are lesser.

Now, I maintain my stance on just using magnification to check for serration and not dulling the blade, unless you also want to scratch your hone with a nail before you lap it.

Ooohh! Now why didn't I think of that!?
 
Lol another thread that Craig is using for his own personal enjoyment. I wonder what his psychiatrist says about this type of behavior?
Either way I don't think he's getting good advice as his problem seems to be rather persistent.

$psychiatrist-snoopy.jpg

Maybe someone here can help him with his impulses to act out? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acting_out
 
Whoah now!


You tell me which is more crazy:

Advocating making something duller when you are trying to sharpen it?

Or

Pointing out to your fellow man that they should question why they do the things they do?






Rubbing a razor on a $300 rock from Japan is a bit nuts.

Rubbing a razor on the edge of a glass just because?
This way madness lay....

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Are those like really small potato chips? I like potato chips, but I prefer the larger ones. The crumbs tend to make a mess.

The crumbs should more correctly be referred to as "potato chip slurry" and are integral to the act of enjoying a bag of chips.
 
Well, at the risk of saying anything ontopic.... :)

The usual reasons to 'knock the edge off' a razor before honing are to know that the edge you have later in the honing cycle is the one you put there and also to know that you have established an edge across the entire razor.

Just a an example, let's say you start off with a razor that is sharp but not shaving well (not sharp enough, dull or damaged portions of the edge, etc.). Let's also suppose the razor has a slight smile to it, which many razors do. So you could hone 3/4 of the razor and not quite reach all the way to the heal or toe and not realize it. If you dull the edge first, it is much more obvious that you have not yet reached all parts of the razor yet.

Another reason is so that you know the new bevel you are establishing is your bevel, set at the angle you are making; a lot of razors are abused and incorrectly honed and so the 'bevel' really is not a bevel at all but just a mish- mash of previous edge abuse someone left behind.

Marking the edge of the razor with a felt tipped marker and using an eye loupe or a microscope works for me but some people prefer to dull the edge instead- whatever works best for you is the best way to hone IMO.

And specifically regarding GD's, my own experience with them is that you will have set the bevel 2 or 3 or 19 times over before even establishing anything like a honing plane between the razor's edge and the spine. I think GD's are the reason 240 grit diamond exists.... often lots 'o metal has to be removed from both the edge as well as the spine of a GD to find the razor under there. :)

Brian

I got some stones and a factory stock GD. I have read about running the blade to dull the edge before starting. So should I just start honing with the stock edge or dull it so I have a set starting point?
 
Well, Craig, since you only hone the same thing over and over perhaps it's hard to see why some people like doing it. No free thought allowed. You must hone by prescription only and only on film and....
 
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