calling all veteran vintage DE owners for help! shimming?

stoof2010 · Oct 22, 2014

So i have a 48-51 tech (no codes) and a 48-51 superspeed (no codes and spelled "package" not "pkg").
Im not positive on tge dates but thats what ive been told.
Any way my question is about shimming.
Do i need to and whatd the best way to do so. Perhaps why its needed if so.
Thanks!!!
And i know the ones i have are common, but havent had much luck with finding a new or fatboy or slim :-(.
Thanks all!!!

KQY61 · Oct 22, 2014

Hi,

No, you do not need to shim. Your razors were designed for thin blades. It is the Old Type Gillette razors with the two pins to hold the blade in place which benefit from a shim. The original three hole Gillette blades were thicker than what we use today. So, the cutting edge was a tad further up off the bottom plate than we see using a modern blade.

A modern blade with the ground edges cut off placed between the bottom plate and an uncut modern blade corrects this. I had years of overly irritating shaves with my Grandfather's Old Type before I started using a shim. It is much better with one. Now, some say two shims is better still, but I prefer one.

In any case, you don't need a shim. I have never tried one in a Tech or a Superspeed, so I will let others that have tried it speak to how well it may or may not work out....

Stan

97Widerider · Oct 22, 2014

I have two pre 1945 Techs (identified by triangular holes) that I shim. You do not need to shim though. I don't think they were designed to be shimmed but shimming does work. I chose to shim to make it a little more aggressive. I took some tin snips and cut the cutting edges (not ends) off 2 older blades. I put the cutting blade into the head first then the two shims stacked right on top. Be sure that when you place the base plate on that and tighten that the shims have not misaligned themselves. Google razor shimming, there is a lot of tutorials and pics showing you how to do it.

nemo · Oct 22, 2014

97Widerider said:
I put the cutting blade into the head first then the two shims stacked right on top. Be sure that when you place the base plate on that and tighten that the shims have not misaligned themselves.

You'd probably get better results with the shims under the blade, raising the blade gap from the safety bar to get a more aggressive shave. Or did I read that wrong?

I personally think a sharp blade in a Tech or Super Speed will provide a good shave if your technique is right on. As Stan points out, on an earlier design it helps.

nuclearblast · Oct 22, 2014

nemo said:
You'd probably get better results with the shims under the blade

What if the cap is upside down when he's loading the razor? :tongue_sm

97Widerider · Oct 22, 2014

I was loading it from an upside down perspective so when flipped back upright, the shims would be under the blade. I have heard a sharp blade like a feather is the idea method for a Tech but I have 100 Derby's to go through myself. Maybe the Derby's will work better in my Ugly NEW .

nemo · Oct 22, 2014

nuclearblast said:
What if the cap is upside down when he's loading the razor?

Then when the shims are correctly installed, they will be "under the cutting edge". I just thought I would clarify where they ought to be used.

:thumbup1:

nuclearblast · Oct 22, 2014

nemo said:
Then when the shims are correctly installed, they will be "under the cutting edge". I just thought I would clarify where they ought to be used.

Of course, it's always good to clarify these things.

@ OP:

I agree with the Gents that posted so far, no need to shim a Tech or a Super Speed. Finding the right angle is more important IMO.
Focus on that and you'll be fine. :thumbsup:

EDIT: Of course, if you want to shim then shim away ... nothing wrong with that either.

davidsilva · Oct 22, 2014

nuclearblast said:
...Finding the right angle is more important IMO. Focus on that and you'll be fine.

I can't count the number of times I've read that since I started, but it has only recently really sunk into my thick skull. Most of my razors have a preferred angle, I get best results when I start with basics and drop the handle until I hear pinging. Otherwise I can't seem to remember the best angle for each of my razors, and guessing doesn't always work well...

On shimming: the angle gets me BBS if it's right. How many passes is another story - I sometimes shim a milder razor to make it more efficient ( 1 shim Sheraton ) - and sometimes to tempt fate ( 1 shim 2013 R41 ).

tclobaugh · Oct 22, 2014

Shim the Beast?!? That is living in the edge indeed

davidsilva · Oct 22, 2014

That was before I tried Aimsport Labs Hurricane top cap for the R41. No longer need a shim, it's like a smooth 2011 R41.

AnthonyD · Oct 22, 2014

KQY61 said:
No, you do not need to shim. Your razors were designed for thin blades. It is the Old Type Gillette razors with the two pins to hold the blade in place which benefit from a shim. The original three hole Gillette blades were thicker than what we use today. So, the cutting edge was a tad further up off the bottom plate than we see using a modern blade.
Stan

I have heard that said many times on the forum before, but I recently found some NOS Gillette blades for the Old Type and I have looked really closely and I do not see any difference in the way the blade sits. It is still right on top of the comb with no gap. Have you put some of the original blades in your Old Type and noticed a difference? Mine is a single-ring from 1920 and the blades that I have date to around 1920 as well, and there is definitely not any visible difference between the modern blade and the original in mine, though the original blades are somewhat thicker.

To the OP's question. The Gillette twist to open razor's are not really good candidates for shimming, although it can be done. The Tech would be a lot better candidate for shimming than the SS. You can just cut off the sharp edges of an old used blade then stack it beneath the cutting blade to increase the blade gap.

nemo · Oct 23, 2014

AnthonyD said:
... I have looked really closely and I do not see any difference in the way the blade sits. It is still right on top of the comb with no gap.

Look even closer, get a jeweler's loupe or take a sharp close-up pic.

There is a measurable gap -- there has to be, otherwise you'd be cutting stripes of stubble.

nuclearblast · Oct 23, 2014

nemo said:
Look even closer, get a jeweler's loupe or take a sharp close-up pic.

There is a measurable gap -- there has to be, otherwise you'd be cutting stripes of stubble.

+1

All razors have blade gap, and the Old Type is no exception.

And here it is, shimmed and close shave mode as per Gillette instructions (well not the shimming part :lol:

)

BSAGuy · Oct 23, 2014

No need t shim the newer Gillettes. Some guys shim the pre-WWII models (Tech excepted) on the theory that the early blades were thicker then modern blades. This is true, but I have never felt the need to shim my Olds or News. Just my 2 cents and YMMV.

01HDFXD · Oct 23, 2014

Both are very mild razors. If you are feeling a need to shim, perhaps you just need to move to a more aggressive razor. Why don't you buy a user grade New (long comb, short comb or goodwill), which you can find very reasonably priced, and give it a try. If you love it (which I am betting you will), you can always get it replated. My 2 cents, YMMV.

KQY61 · Oct 23, 2014

AnthonyD said:
I have heard that said many times on the forum before, but I recently found some NOS Gillette blades for the Old Type and I have looked really closely and I do not see any difference in the way the blade sits. It is still right on top of the comb with no gap. Have you put some of the original blades in your Old Type and noticed a difference? Mine is a single-ring from 1920 and the blades that I have date to around 1920 as well, and there is definitely not any visible difference between the modern blade and the original in mine, though the original blades are somewhat thicker.

To the OP's question. The Gillette twist to open razor's are not really good candidates for shimming, although it can be done. The Tech would be a lot better candidate for shimming than the SS. You can just cut off the sharp edges of an old used blade then stack it beneath the cutting blade to increase the blade gap.

Hi,

Those two pics show it well. What the shim does is put the point of the cutting edge to where it is when using the thicker original blade.

Stan

AnthonyD · Oct 23, 2014

nuclearblast said:
+1

All razors have blade gap, and the Old Type is no exception.

View attachment 510490

And here it is, shimmed and close shave mode as per Gillette instructions (well not the shimming part )

View attachment 510491

Sorry, I guess that I wasn't clear. I know that there must be some gap or of course there would be strips of hair left after each pass, but I was saying that to the naked eye both the older thicker blade and the modern blade appear to be practically right on top of the comb. That is why I used the term "visible difference." Thanks for the close up pics those are very helpful; however, the head doesn't appear to be tightened down all the way down in the second pic and it is a shimmed modern blade; whereas, I was talking about original blade.

View attachment 510555

There is not a gap between the top plate and base plate (see the circle) with the original blades; although, looking at the two blades in better lighting today I can see a very minuscule difference, but not nearly the amount in the above pics.

I don't think my camera is good enough to get clear close up shots like that, but does any one have a pic with the original blade for a true comparison?

nuclearblast · Oct 23, 2014

AnthonyD said:
Sorry, I guess that I wasn't clear. I know that there must be some gap or of course there would be strips of hair left after each pass, but I was saying that to the naked eye both the older thicker blade and the modern blade appear to be practically right on top of the comb. That is why I used the term "visible difference." Thanks for the close up pics those are very helpful; however, the head doesn't appear to be tightened down all the way down in the second pic and it is a shimmed modern blade; whereas, I was talking about original blade.

View attachment 510555

There is not a gap between the top plate and base plate (see the circle) with the original blades; although, looking at the two blades in better lighting today I can see a very minuscule difference, but not nearly the amount in the above pics.

I don't think my camera is good enough to get clear close up shots like that, but does any one have a pic with the original blade for a true comparison?

Allow me to clarify, too.
As you said, in the second picture the razor is not fully tightened, because as I said, it's an example of the Close Shave as Gillette recommended for tough beards as seen here:

View attachment 510562

The first picture has only one modern blade in it and it is fully tightened. The gap is obviously there, that's what I was showing.

AnthonyD · Oct 23, 2014

nuclearblast said:
Allow me to clarify, too.
As you said, in the second picture the razor is not fully tightened, because as I said, it's an example of the Close Shave as Gillette recommended for tough beards as seen here:

View attachment 510562

The first picture has only one modern blade in it and it is fully tightened. The gap is obviously there, that's what I was showing.

Thanks for the clarification. Do you know of any pics of a modern blade vs. original tightened down all the way for a true comparison?

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calling all veteran vintage DE owners for help! shimming?

stoof2010

KQY61

97Widerider

nemo

Lunatic Fringe

nuclearblast

97Widerider

nemo

Lunatic Fringe

nuclearblast

davidsilva

tclobaugh

davidsilva

AnthonyD

nemo

Lunatic Fringe

nuclearblast

BSAGuy

01HDFXD

KQY61

AnthonyD

nuclearblast

AnthonyD

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