How can I tell they are really shell cordovan?

I just purchased a pair of nice pre-owned Allen Edmonds Fairgates, in black cordovan.
How do I know for sure if they are cordovan, not calf? I've owned many pair of AEs, but never
cordovan. I am hoping it's the beginning of a new tradition.

I would know other than to research if the leather came from Horween Leather Company, the last cordovan maker in the US.

Post a photo. The creases may be an indication as well.

johnniegold said:

Post a photo. The creases may be an indication as well.

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+1. If you post a few GOOD pics, there's a 95%+ probability we can tell you with a quick glance.

Here are two pics from the sale site. Thanks.

Is it just an experienced eye that can tell by a picture?

or is there specific characteristics of cordovan that will show?

I found one way to tell the difference. By the AE stock numbers. If i look at the number pic of shoes selling online, the cordovan is 4923 and the calf is 4423. I know I'll be able to tell the difference by how the cordovan wears, but will I know by just looking at a leather?

ironthinker said:

Here are two pics from the sale site. Thanks.View attachment 509297View attachment 509296

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I would say that with near certainty those shoes are genuine shell cordovan. If you look at the creases - there are no "micro creases" the creases are big, wide waves with smoothness around and between creases. Due to the tight pore structure of Shell Cordovan, coupled with the rich processing method, you get this unique and special effect. The shoe on the right (overhead pic) is harder to tell, but the one on the left is a dead give away.

If you own a few pairs of nice leather shoes, and a few pairs of genuine shell cordovan, you see/know the difference on site.

These pictures look like ebay pics - but they look like they're in like new condition. If so, if you look at the bottom of the sole, it will likely still have the Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan markings in the sole of the shoe. If not, don't be overly alarmed, it's possible they were worn off. While I haven't owned a pair of AE's in Cordovan, the markings on Alden's is worn off in less than a dozen wears if memory serves me correctly. No idea on AE's though - as their markings are a bit different, might be deeper (or shallower) and I don't have any "hands on" experience with them.

In any event - great snag, and with a good brushing (maybe even up to 20 min) those puppies will be as shiny as a freshly minted penny!

Toothpick said:

Is it just an experienced eye that can tell by a picture?

or is there specific characteristics of cordovan that will show?

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Calf skin and cordovan crease differently. As Joel said, calf has sharper, and more numerous "micro" creases. The short way to put it is that calf "creases" and cordovan "ripples". Take a look at the following pictures (not mine) as an example. The first is calfskin, the second is shell cordovan:




I agree that ironthinker's shoes look very much like cordovan.

Thanks guys for the info. It's going to be fun to work and wear cordovan.

ironthinker said:

Thanks guys for the info. It's going to be fun to work and wear cordovan.

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You lucked out with those. I usually warn people NOT to buy used cordovan shoes, as the way you walk in a new pair will crease them differently, and they'll never be as comfortable or as beautiful - however those look new and unworn enough whereby I think this effect will be minimal.

LogisticEarth inspired me to take a few pics for this thread - but fair warning, I was lazy and used my iPhone. Below are two different Alden cap toe boots. The brown ones are calf, the maroon ones are shell cordovan.

Side by side - notice the calf shoe on the right has the fine creasing, where as they are non existent on the shells on the left....


Calf close up with micro creases....


Shell close up with no micro creases, mere waves....

Thanks for the explanation and photos gents!

really lovely shoes here!

Nice comparison. Really depicts the differences between calf and shell.

More waves...

Another distinction between calf and cordovan is the shine. Calf takes a really brilliant shine while cordovan is more of a luster. Once you've seen it a few times, well polished cordovan is unmistakable.