I manage a pet store and have lots of basic and general knowledge of reptiles but have never really kept them. I've been considering getting a uromastyx and was wondering if there is anything particular or special I need to consider with them beyond the special diet and heat/light conditions? The animal in question is currently in care with a friend who rescued it from some kids that were torturing it in her apartment complex. It is a Mali hybrid and fully grown. It's recuperated well and eating well again. Trying to make up my mind if this is the animal I want.
Any herpetologists or experienced reptile enthusiasts here?
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this might help.
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Uromastyx-Lizard/
one thing that sticks out to me in the care sheet is the size of the cage needed. 10-18 inch lizard = 6+ foot cage.
You will need ample space for housing.
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Uromastyx-Lizard/
one thing that sticks out to me in the care sheet is the size of the cage needed. 10-18 inch lizard = 6+ foot cage.
You will need ample space for housing.
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From my own research and reading, the Mali don't need as large an enclosure, also, I have read through various sites that housing is anywhere from huge like that to a 20-30 gallon set up. There is a decent serpentarium locally but I haven't been over there yet to discuss it. My friend who currently has him is experienced with reptiles, said that a 40-60 gallon is fine for this one.
I don't have any experience with uromastyx but I keep a Leopard gecko, crested gecko, box turtle, and a pair of Bearded Dragons that I mate occasionally
For size, the more the better as too small an enclosure will stress the animal and can make them harder to interact with. For reference, my Beardies are in 40g breeder tanks but they get run around time everyday (they are in my classroom so I'm limited to how big of an enclosure I can build ).
Anyways, not an expert but if you have any questions I'm more than happy to help think stuff through with you.
For size, the more the better as too small an enclosure will stress the animal and can make them harder to interact with. For reference, my Beardies are in 40g breeder tanks but they get run around time everyday (they are in my classroom so I'm limited to how big of an enclosure I can build ).
Anyways, not an expert but if you have any questions I'm more than happy to help think stuff through with you.
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Here's some more info on uromastyx if anyone else wants to read through. It's a pretty big wall of text, but if you can get through it it has some good info.
http://www.deerfernfarms.com/Uromastyx_Care.htm
All the general and basic info I'm good with, it's just these guys are pretty particular and not something I have dealt with before, thought it might be fun to have.
http://www.deerfernfarms.com/Uromastyx_Care.htm
All the general and basic info I'm good with, it's just these guys are pretty particular and not something I have dealt with before, thought it might be fun to have.
This must be getting pretty popular, because I'm constantly hearing ads on the radio for people who have "A reptile dysfunction".
Used to own a beautiful Ball Python, had to give him away years ago. At the time that I gave him away he was 27 years old.
Lizards always seemed less interesting to me for whatever reason, and I'm sure it's not any logical ones.
I know that most reptiles do carry increased risk to handlers due to salmonella and providing that information was always enough for friends not to want to hold or handle my snake.
Used to own a beautiful Ball Python, had to give him away years ago. At the time that I gave him away he was 27 years old.
Lizards always seemed less interesting to me for whatever reason, and I'm sure it's not any logical ones.
I know that most reptiles do carry increased risk to handlers due to salmonella and providing that information was always enough for friends not to want to hold or handle my snake.
it sounds kinda complicated to do it correctly;
Historically, captive Uromastyx had a poor survival rate, due to a lack of understanding of their dietary and environmental needs. In recent years, knowledge has significantly increased, and appropriate diet and care has led to survival rates and longevity approaching and perhaps surpassing those in the wild.
The Mali Uromastyx (Uromastyx (dispar) maliensis) is considered an ideal species to choose as a pet because they readily adapt to a captive environment. Another species of Uromastyx that adapts to captivity well, and comes in a wide variety of colors, is Uromastyx ornata. Artificial UVB/UVA light and vitamin supplements must be balanced with proper food and nutrition, UVB light is required for calcium absorption from the gut. Most commercially available UVB lights lose efficiency after 6 months and need to be replaced. Proper enclosures can be costly, as these are roaming animals with large space needs for their size, combined with the need to provide heat and ultraviolet light. Though the lizards bask at very high temperatures, there must be a temperature gradient within the enclosure allowing them to cool off away from the heat lamps. A cooling-down period over winter months can trigger the breeding response when temperatures rise in the spring. The temporary slowing-down of theirmetabolisms also lengthens the animals' lifespans.
Uromastyx are burrowing lizards, and need substrate deep enough to burrow in, or a low structure under which to hide. In the wild, these lizards' burrows can reach 3 m (10 ft) in length.
Historically, captive Uromastyx had a poor survival rate, due to a lack of understanding of their dietary and environmental needs. In recent years, knowledge has significantly increased, and appropriate diet and care has led to survival rates and longevity approaching and perhaps surpassing those in the wild.
The Mali Uromastyx (Uromastyx (dispar) maliensis) is considered an ideal species to choose as a pet because they readily adapt to a captive environment. Another species of Uromastyx that adapts to captivity well, and comes in a wide variety of colors, is Uromastyx ornata. Artificial UVB/UVA light and vitamin supplements must be balanced with proper food and nutrition, UVB light is required for calcium absorption from the gut. Most commercially available UVB lights lose efficiency after 6 months and need to be replaced. Proper enclosures can be costly, as these are roaming animals with large space needs for their size, combined with the need to provide heat and ultraviolet light. Though the lizards bask at very high temperatures, there must be a temperature gradient within the enclosure allowing them to cool off away from the heat lamps. A cooling-down period over winter months can trigger the breeding response when temperatures rise in the spring. The temporary slowing-down of theirmetabolisms also lengthens the animals' lifespans.
Uromastyx are burrowing lizards, and need substrate deep enough to burrow in, or a low structure under which to hide. In the wild, these lizards' burrows can reach 3 m (10 ft) in length.
Mali Uromastyx can do really well in captivity. On the cage size, the biggest you can it is better. Mali's do not get as big as the Egypticus, but what makes you think it is a Hybrid? When I was in the Reptile Industry, Uromastyx were impossible to get to breed in captivity. Crossing a Mali with any other species would hence be almost impossible to do. The main thing to worry about with them is if they are full of worms. When they come into the Country, most of them are. If it has been in captivity for a while and thriving, I wouldn't worry about worms.
They need a very hot basking site, 110F at least with an ambient temperature between 85F-90F. They also need full spectrum lighting. Do not feed it animal protein, stick to mainly veggies and some fruits, no ice berg lettuce or spinach IIRC. Dark leafy greens, dandelion and kale are good ones. Make sure to give it some sort of calcium and D3 supplement.
I had a Uromastyx Benti years ago. I made it's cage out of melamine boards and a piece of lexan plexi for the front. It was much cheaper to make it than buy something big. The Benti's are smaller than the Mali's.
I can't think of anything else off the top of my head, so if you have any questions, just ask.
They need a very hot basking site, 110F at least with an ambient temperature between 85F-90F. They also need full spectrum lighting. Do not feed it animal protein, stick to mainly veggies and some fruits, no ice berg lettuce or spinach IIRC. Dark leafy greens, dandelion and kale are good ones. Make sure to give it some sort of calcium and D3 supplement.
I had a Uromastyx Benti years ago. I made it's cage out of melamine boards and a piece of lexan plexi for the front. It was much cheaper to make it than buy something big. The Benti's are smaller than the Mali's.
I can't think of anything else off the top of my head, so if you have any questions, just ask.
I bred Beardies for a long time, stopped when I got married. Had 2.3, great breeders and pets! I also bred Crested Geckos before they were available all over the place like they are now. They are cool, just to sit and watch! I wanted to get into the Gargoyle Gecko back then, but never did.
I also bred Veild Chameleons and Leopard Geckos. My house was like a zoo at the time... And the electric bill, forget about it!
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My friend with the lizard inquired with deer fern farms about this animal and they said it was likely a hybrid banded/Mali which I believe is technically a lowland banded.
I would use a full spectrum mercury vapor lighting set up for a one light kit. I've been reading up on their diet, not too different from my own, lol! Seems that many people are having luck with burrow structures in the enclosure rather than 6+ inches of substrate.
Here is a picture of him, he was nearly all black when my friend got him and his color has really started to improve. A few more sheds and it should be nice and bright!
I would use a full spectrum mercury vapor lighting set up for a one light kit. I've been reading up on their diet, not too different from my own, lol! Seems that many people are having luck with burrow structures in the enclosure rather than 6+ inches of substrate.
Here is a picture of him, he was nearly all black when my friend got him and his color has really started to improve. A few more sheds and it should be nice and bright!
Nice looking lizard! I am not familiar with that lighting setup, just make sure his basking spot is at least 110F. Looks like a male.
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- #12
He's a little worse for the wear, he's missing a couple of toes (the bastid kids were holding a lighter to them) he had a nasty rub sore on his nose likely from too small of a tank, and was extremely shy to begin with. My friend said that he will now eat with her in the room, which he didn't before.
Suticat, fortunately I do not have a stake of ownership in the company. We have 10 stores and are an independently owned corporation. Small enough to be a pleasure to work for and large enough to have the resilience to get through tough economic times (meaning I still get a full paycheck if there is a slow week). I'm happy with the company, and still have a love for animals. Except cats. I hate cats. Lol!
Suticat, fortunately I do not have a stake of ownership in the company. We have 10 stores and are an independently owned corporation. Small enough to be a pleasure to work for and large enough to have the resilience to get through tough economic times (meaning I still get a full paycheck if there is a slow week). I'm happy with the company, and still have a love for animals. Except cats. I hate cats. Lol!
I wish to complain about this parrot what I purchased not half an hour ago from this very boutique.
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- #14
Sorry, not a genie, I don't grant wishes. Looks like your outta luck.
My attempt at humor fell flat
I give up. Why does cutting and pasting links from another browser window only work sometimes using my S4? I may have to switch to iphone. Oh well, trying to link to the Monte Python dead parrot sketch.
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- #16
Lol, well we're about as dry with humor as a BBC daytime special...
I'm running an S4 as well, I never have issues with c/p links. You up to date? Clear your cache from time to time, general and in application management as well, don't clear data in app mgt, just cache. Will make things run much faster!
I'm running an S4 as well, I never have issues with c/p links. You up to date? Clear your cache from time to time, general and in application management as well, don't clear data in app mgt, just cache. Will make things run much faster!
Yeah, it is up to date. I will try clearing the cache. It is annoying how random it is. The cut is always good, the paste is iffy.
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- #19
Do you get the problem of the tap-hold not bringing up the paste window? If so I've found that doing it after hitting space bar once then tap-hold works every time.
Back to the dinosaur, I'm thinking of passing. Not because of inability but because of time available. If I didn't already have 2 dogs and 2 rabbits, wife, kid, live in relative, etc I would probably be much more enthusiastic about it. If I'm not excited, I've learned it's probably not a good idea.
Back to the dinosaur, I'm thinking of passing. Not because of inability but because of time available. If I didn't already have 2 dogs and 2 rabbits, wife, kid, live in relative, etc I would probably be much more enthusiastic about it. If I'm not excited, I've learned it's probably not a good idea.
Exactly. I will give it a try
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