Ok so I've been shaving with a straight for only a little while. I am nowhere near the magic 100 shaves, but I have gotten to the point where I can shave my entire face although it takes a long time is not super close yet. But I'm running into a consistent problem. I can't keep my blade sharp for even one entire shave. I test my blades (I have 2 -- a gold dollar from Buca on this site and a starter from Larry at Whipped Dog), by doing the "tree top" test on some arm hair. I can tell my blade will be sharp enough if it easily catches and cuts arm hair. However, after a shave it won't do that anymore. Even if I stop 40+ times it never gets that sharp again unless I do about 5-6 laps on an old barber hone that I picked up from eBay. However, everything I read says that I should be able to keep my edge shave ready for at least 15 or so shaves with just stropping. I can always get it back to nice and sharp with barber hone, followed by 20 laps on green CrOx, 20 on red CrOx (from whipped dog) then about 40+ on the strop. Super sharp and buttery smooth after this process for about 1/2 a shave --what's up? Is it possible that my tough beard is dulling the blade? Is it a technique thing whereby I'm using too much pressure? Why can't I bring the edge back after a shave with stropping? Do my razors just suck and do better ones have more durable edges? Any advice from more experienced folks would be helpful. Thanks.
Blade won't stay sharp enough
- Thread starter BeSharp
- Start date
I'm going to say to be very aware of your angle while shaving.
You may also be dulling it if your stropping technique isn't up to snuff.
Both of these things can be tough on the edge.
If it were just one razor that did this, I'd be curious if the razor was damaged in some way, but given that's it's both, i doubt that is the issue.
You may also be dulling it if your stropping technique isn't up to snuff.
Both of these things can be tough on the edge.
If it were just one razor that did this, I'd be curious if the razor was damaged in some way, but given that's it's both, i doubt that is the issue.
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- Thread starter
- #3
I had a similar experience when I started. I am still learning, by the way. I had much too steep an angle and I am learning to go shallow.
Even though it's metal, the edge is actually very delicate. Here's some useful advice that I've read on here (as always, be careful if you try this):
Get the razor sharp, then place it flat against your cheek. Keeping the blade flat, slowly start a stroke. As the razor is moving, gradually raise the spine from your cheek to increase the angle. Notice when it starts shaving hair, and carefully note that angle. Then, try to keep close to that angle during the entire shave (you may not be able to, but it's a useful thing to practice). When you're doing this, you may notice that the blade sticks to the lather a bit. If it does, try using a slightly wetter lather.
Get the razor sharp, then place it flat against your cheek. Keeping the blade flat, slowly start a stroke. As the razor is moving, gradually raise the spine from your cheek to increase the angle. Notice when it starts shaving hair, and carefully note that angle. Then, try to keep close to that angle during the entire shave (you may not be able to, but it's a useful thing to practice). When you're doing this, you may notice that the blade sticks to the lather a bit. If it does, try using a slightly wetter lather.
along with gash's tip no more angle than 2 spines width off the face. too much angle will hose the edge as well as improper stropping. keep the razor flat on the strop both ways till you flip. a wedge will tolerate more of an angle without dulling. remember the edge is flexible if it weren't it would dull and pull quickly too much angle and you bend the edge away from cutting . trying to give you an idea of what is happening.
40 round trips or 20 round trips?
If it is the later, it is typically not enough.
When I started using a straight, one of my colleague who started a few months ahead of me advised 50 round trip (ie 100 laps) and mentioned that 30 or 40 just did not do it. I did not really even understand what stropping did back then so I just adopted that best practice. And, it works.
You might be able to get away with 40 round trip laps (ie 80 laps), but that actually might not be enough depending on how good your strop is and how bad your beard is. Plus the angle used affects the amount of damage to repair with stropping too.
In order to keep my edge constant, I strop before and after. I use the linen side of the strop too, which is a bit coarser than the leather and does more heavy duty damage repair.
My routine is before shaving 50 laps (ie 25 round trips) on Linen then 100 laps (50 round trip) on leather.
After shaving I flip that (i.e. 100 laps on linen followed by 50 on leather).
My blades stay sharp and my beard is a pretty coarse one (I am mediterranean).
one more thing barbers hones are usually aggressive and the paste polishes what the hone did you may have the edge too thin as well if you didn't keep the spine on the hone and undercut the bevel
- Thread starter
- #9
It's very easy to apply to much toward pressure on the strop and dull the edge. Try stropping slowly and watching the entire edge float across the leather.
- Thread starter
- #11
Update -- I had a successful full-face shave this morning. I dried off the razor and stropped it and WOW it was still sharp. I think it was definitely a combination of poor angle and stropping incorrectly. I watched a few more videos on stropping and paid careful attention to my pressure and technique on the strop as well. So thanks guys! It's still not as smooth as DE but it's fun trying.
One other observation, I find that the heavy relatively stiff Gold Dollar shaves much more effortlessly than the thinner, lighter one I got from Whipped Dog (even though both are sharp). Do you all find that a certain size, weight, style of blade etc. is more durable and "better" for a heavy beard?
One other observation, I find that the heavy relatively stiff Gold Dollar shaves much more effortlessly than the thinner, lighter one I got from Whipped Dog (even though both are sharp). Do you all find that a certain size, weight, style of blade etc. is more durable and "better" for a heavy beard?
Interesting I think I need to adjust my angle too then.
Yes, keep your razor almost flat against your face, otherwise you'll be scraping, not shaving.
Nothing wrong with your poor man's strop. It's a functional piece of leather that's able to do the job of keeping your razor's edge usable.
I shaved with a new edge on my Gold Dollar last night after honing it for a full progression on my Jnat. Honestly, the shave was very comparable to my razors costing hundreds more. If you get your Gold Dollar from someone like Bucca or Seraphim and they can make sure everything is correct before you get it, these Gold Dollars really are good value for the money.
Great comment, Gash. I was aware of all these things you mention; While on just my second attempt with a straight razor, earlier tonight. Now I know I'm on the right track
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