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Shirt advice

Hello gents,

I have always struggled with finding button-down shirts that fit me right, given that I have a small frame. I usually end up with lots of fabric loose around my waist, if I go for a shirt that fits me better around the waist, the chest will be tight and the collar won't button. I am skeptical about department store shirts that are solds a "slim", the ones I have tried on make me feel like a poorly stuffed sausage. I am 15-20 pounds over weight at the moment, and working on getting in better shape, my concern is that my waist is only going to reduce while my shoulders/arms/chest will get larger (yay for StrongLifts 5x5) and will only make it more difficult to find nice shirts that fit.

Can you recommend a good brand of shirts for smaller frames? Bonus points for french cuffs!
 
I'm guessing you meant "button up" shirts, since button-down collars and french cuffs seems like an odd combination.

The meaning of "Slim Fit" can vary quite a bit from brand to brand so don't give up on them right away. In fact, I've tried on a few "slim fit" shirts where "tent fit" seemed a more apt description - I assume this was a vanity sizing problem.

The problem you are going to encounter is that generally a thick neck means a thick man, and off-the-rack clothing is sized to fit accordingly. If you are a fan of the open-collar look, you may discover that having a neck that is too small to button up can actually result in a more flattering appearance when worn with the collar and top button undone than a shirt which could be buttoned up. (YMMV) I have a small collection of "shirts I can put a tie on" and a large collection of "shirts that stay open-collar" for this reason.

You may have to resort to getting shirts tailored. You can buy a too-big shirt and pay someone to take it in, but you may get better results for around the same total cost by just getting a shirt custom-made.
 
From what you have described, you should look for shirts that are labeled "athletic fit" or "athletic cut". Typically, "slim fit" or "trim fit" shirts have a narrower chest (~5" more tapered than normal) and narrower waist (~6" more tapered than normal), whereas "athletic fit" shirts have a full/normal chest and are only tapered at the waist.
 
Also, consider buying shirts that true sizing instead of dept store shirts with ranges (i.e., 16 33/34). Those are almost always a compromised fit; which isnt a problem when worn occasionally under a suit or jacket, but very apparent when worn alone.

The "Traveler Tailored Fit Pinpoint" shirts from Jos A Banks have that tapered "V" from chest-to-waist that might be a good choice. When you buy the at the "sale" price (i.e., the every other week price), you can get a very nice shirt for under $30

Slightly more (on sale / clearance) are the Brooks Bros "slim" fit. It has a very similar fit to the Jos A Banks "tailored" ft and on clearance can be had for about $60 and even less during their semi-annual sales.

The good thing about both of these retailers is they usually have a brick & mortar store nearby where you can try things on and confirm your fit - then monitor the websites for clearance deals
 
I swear by LLBean wrinkle free oxford and pinpoint button down shirts. Lots of neck and sleeve length combinations, very well made, and made in regular, slimmer fit, and trim fit. Order one of each, and if you don't like them for some reason, you can simply return them. Free shipping both ways.
 
+1 for LL Bean pinpoint oxford shirts! In my experience (wearing a dress shirt six days a week for almost 25 years), their shirts are very comfortable, very well made, consistently outlast the competition, and look better for longer (i.e., after hundreds of washings and pressings). They also have a "no questions asked" warranty policy if you ever have a problem with any of their products.

I also like Paul Fredrick dress shirts when I can get them on sale. If you've never ordered from them before, they have a special introductory offer where you can purchase four of their white 100% cotton pinpoint oxford shirts for only $19.95 each with no strings attached. It's an unbeatable deal. As a part of the offer, you choose the size, fit options, collar options, and cuff options (yes, you can select French cuffs!) -- and you even get free monogramming. You can use this link if you're interested in taking advantage of the offer.
 
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