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Safety Razor of the Month, September 2014 - Slants

SLANTS FOR SEPTEMBER

Even before there were safety razors, barbers practiced a slanted or diagonal stroke for a smoother, more efficient shave.

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As the safety razor gained more and more acceptance, and men were increasingly shaving themselves rather than relying on the barber's skilled hand, the challenge of replicating this stroke is a recurring theme. Almost as soon as there was a safety razor there were competing designs that sought to simplify the slanted stroke. The ads for the Young "Any-Angle" Razor from the early 1910s are some of my favorites in this area for their pitch to put diagonal strokes within anyone's reach.

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Over the years we've seen all different kinds of slanted razors. Some just took the standard razor head and tipped it up on an angle, others used proprietary blades with angles built into them. The slants that have made it through to us in the present day are, so far as I know, all torsion slants: razors that twist the blade to slant its cutting edges on both sides. The twist also has a secondary effect of further stiffening the blade against flexing.

Whether you've got a new-production slant or an old crazy one, let's see your pictures and hear your stories. Do you have questions about using them, or want to share tips that you've learned along the way? Whether you can't stand 'em or you think they're the greatest thing since sliced whiskers, we want to hear what you think. Let's live life on the tilted edge this month.
 
Slants seem to finally be getting the attention they deserve. I'm glad to see new production slants hitting the market. It wasn't long ago when that Merkurs were the only new production slants to be had. Now we have the iKon and RazoRock slants and an ATT slant in the works.
 
I love the look of (torsion) slants. They are twisted and quite fierce looking. In honor of this thread, I'm gonna bust out my one and only slant tomorrow and give it a go. If my Hoffritz were in mint condition, it would look very much like this one:

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Hi,

Here is a favorite style of slant, known as the Generic Solignen Slant. There was one (unknown) maker of the slanted head, and then it was sold by most of the name-brand razor makers in Solingen, Germany. It sports a head with differential aggressiveness, meaning one side is milder than the other.

The milder side can be told by the finer set of scallops on the safety bar:

$Solingen_Mild.jpg

The more aggressive side can be told by the coarser set of scallops on the safety bar:

$Solingen_Aggressive.jpg

This is like having two razors in one. I find that if I shave WTG with the milder side, then ATG with the more aggressive side, I can obtain near-DFS with a single lathering. I just pull short strokes one way with the one side on a patch, then flip the razor over and go right back over the same patch, then rinse the razor off. Pretty easy. :)

Stan
 
Hi,

I used the Generic Soligen Slant for a while, mentioning here and there how well I liked how it worked. Then, I was pointed at another version, also from Solingen, and from Fasan which was doubly slanted. So, I dug one up. This version of the Fasan Doppleschrag (literally Double Oblique) has a Red Dot on the top cap that indicates the more aggressive side of the razor.

$Fasan_1_Aggressive_side.jpg

The milder side is simply unmarked:

$Fasan_1_Mild_side.jpg

I find that using this one, mild side first WTG then aggressive side ATG, gains DFS+ and I usually feel no need to go further towards BBS. This one worked enough better than the Generic Solingen Slant that I stopped using the latter and PIFd it along to a very good friend that also shaves with DE razors and who was wanting to find a Slant to try out. Actually, it was a loan, but I know now I ain't gonna get it back again. So, DeFacto PIF! ;)

Stan
 
Hi,

Now, the slants I show above are sporting handles I had on hand, not the original ones they came with. Of course, I had the original handles and found a few pics of them in their original state:

Generic Solingen, which has no brand markings on it anywhere:

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Fasan Doppleschrag:

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Note that there are two Fasans, the slightly older one sports a plastic top cap, the later production one has a metal top cap.

I use the metal top cap Fasan daily, and use it with a rhodium replated common bar handle, loaded with lead shot to better balance the weight of the metal top cap (which is significantly heavier than the plastic cap).

$Fasan_2_Bar.jpg

Stan
 
I've been off on my first open-comb excursion for the past couple of weeks, but just returned to my trusty 37c today. I have to say, I can't decide between them. I think the 37c will share top honors with my NEW LC for the foreseeable future.

While I love my 37c, I am now starting to consider saving up for a slant with some lasting power. Are the vintage Hoffritz models zamak like the Merkurs or were they plated brass like the vintage Gillette's? If they were Zamak, then my choice becomes simpler...Ikon. If they are plated brass, then I could go with the cheaper option.
 
Hi,

Now, the slants I show above are sporting handles I had on hand, not the original ones they came with. Of course, I had the original handles and found a few pics of them in their original state:

Generic Solingen, which has no brand markings on it anywhere:

View attachment 493893

Fasan Doppleschrag:

View attachment 493894

Note that there are two Fasans, the slightly older one sports a plastic top cap, the later production one has a metal top cap.

I use the metal top cap Fasan daily, and use it with a rhodium replated common bar handle, loaded with lead shot to better balance the weight of the metal top cap (which is significantly heavier than the plastic cap).

View attachment 493895

Stan

Stan, you have an amazing collection of German slants!:001_tt1:

As you know, I recently acquired my own Fasan doppelschräge, which arrived today in the mail from Croatia. I will try to take pictures of it tomorrow. I have already noticed that it has impressive blade exposure on either side, but a relatively small blade gap. Not sure what that means for how it will shave, but I'm looking forward to trying it out.

I used my Hoffritz slant this morning. I had forgotten how amazingly smooth it is. Just what I needed after two days of R41 experiments.
 
Hi,

Actually, I only have one at the moment, the metal top cap Fasan. The Generic Solingen went to a buddy after I picked up the plastic top cap Fasan. And, after I scored the metal top cap Fasan, I passed the plastic top cap one on to a fellow B+Ber. The two Fasans shaved the same, so I figured it was better for someone else to have the spare (which is what it would have been at that point).

I am not into collecting razors. At one point I did have quite a few, after returning home and having the ones there added to the ones that came from the apartment, plus the three slants. I passed all the extras onto either friends or fellow B+Bers. I have four razors total at this point, and one has been taken over by SWMBO. ;)

But, I did keep pics of the ones which have been passed on, of course. :)

Stan
 
I didn't realize it was Slantember already! Nice selection in this thread!

Before I get started, I want to plug LASS Topanga Fougere Shaving Cream. The lather is easy to build, good cushion, nice and slick, does not leave the skin dry. One of the better fougere scents I've enjoyed, and there is lots of scent as you whip up the lather. Highly recommended! I been using it most every day this month.

My first slant was a Merkur 39c. I found it pretty easy to find the right angle, the cap has flattened sides and if held parallel to the skin it's the right angle for me. I can get a close 3 pass shave comfortably, with all the blades I've tried, as long as I keep to that angle. Mysterious to me, I just don't reach for it that often. Curious that...

Before the rest of the story, here is the 39c with the players that followed.

Merkur 39c / Fasan Bakelite Slant



The Fasan is the most efficient and aggressive / harsh of my slants. I only use Astra SP blades with it, to try to smooth it out. Very close results, same ballpark as an ATT H2 or 2013 R41. I still need to consistently find a lighter touch to use this razor comfortably.

Vintage Italian Barber Bakelite Slant / Ikon DLC Slant



I don't think the Italian Barber moniker is referring to our good friend Joe, as this razor is mid 20th century from what I was told. The blade exposure doesn't change as it does on the RR Slant either, it stays even across the lenght of the blade. It is a very light razor, the angle seems intuitive, and it's easy to zip around the face. The head is peaked, so it is a challenge to get the area under the nose, but angling around and smushing the schnoz got the job done. I used it for 2+ weeks on a trip this summer, and by the 3rd day I was getting consistent very close shaves that lasted into the evening.

The Ikon is a very nice razor. The DLC coating is very smooth - I could even say slick - on the skin. It shaves very nicely, but to get the closest shave the angle needs to be just so. If you are not quite there - your whiskers will still be cut - but they won't be cut as close. Nevertheless, the angle doesn't take long to find, then the shaves get very close and long lasting. Eventually when I thin out the slant collection a bit, the Ikon DLC will definitely be a keeper.

Both these razors shave well with many different quality blades.

This brings me to an Intermission to mention cut's and nicks.

With the exception of the Fasan - which can bite pretty good - the rest of the slants are very forgiving except for one bad maneuver - which I am prone to. When it is time to pivot the razor prior to a new stroke, sometimes in my body this gets translated to an immediate sideways slide of the razor which leaves me with a good gash. For the most part I do not find the slants dangerous or threatening or hard to deal with.

So IMHO disregard the rumors of super aggressive, constant cuts, bleeding out on the floor experiences. Personally I just need to make sure to follow one of the top unwritten rules about shaving - lift the dayum blade off the face before you change the razor position! :blushing:

This brings me to the last 2 slants, an Ibsen and a Lutz - both all metal. Both look like twins to Stan's Solingen!



These slants look very similar. The Ibsen has a bit more detail work on the handle, is a bit longer and heavier, and shaves somewhat closer than the Lutz. Both provide smooth close shaves, and have an "aggressive" and "milder" side... The more aggressive side has wider grooves in the safety bar, the milder side has narrower grooves. I notice some difference, but nothing to write home about! But then again, I might not have the right angle yet.

The only additional slant razors I would like to own / sample are an all metal Fasan, and the upcoming ATT Slant.


 
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I shaved with this Fasan double slant yesterday. As David promised, it is extremely aggressive and yet so light weight that it almost floats in air. $ImageUploadedByTapatalk1410440687.678032.jpg
The purpose of my picture is to show the impressive blade exposure. I have lots of heavy, solid brass vintage razors in my collection. This Fasan is really something quite unusual (for me).
 
This morning I picked up the Ibsen Slant. Haven't used this one in a while, and realized I was off base on one detail above - unlike the Lutz it does not have differential exposure on each side of the razor - both sides are the same.

Here's the setup for this morning:

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The soap in back is what I've been using for pre-shave. It is a Le Blanc shea soap, works very well. I lather up my face first thing, and leave my face sudsed up while I prep everything.

I like it when a slant let's me know it means business when I assemble it. To keep finger slashes to a minimum, I assemble the razors upside down on a facecloth. After I make the cap/blade/baseplate sandwhich, I press down on the head from the sides while I screw on the handle. With slants that torsion the blade, I can feel the head assembly creak a bit as the blade is sprung into it's curve. Happens with the Ibsen.

Another thing I like about the Ibsen is the wide unbroken gap between the SB and the rest of the plate. Unlike many of my razors there is absolutely no soap foam sludge on a blade edge when I disassemble.

The Ibsen is very smooth and comfortable. I enjoyed a 2 pass + chin and neck buffing shave.

I've been enjoying easy upper lip shaving with an R41 the last couple weeks, just the little bit more cap height on the Ibsen makes it not quite reach the upper most hair under my nose when I do a WTG pass on my lip. I had to do a little blade corner dancing to clean up just under the nose.

A splash of mentholated witch hazel, followed by a splash of Fine Fresh Vetiver. I really like this aftershave splash, and it matches up perfectly with TF Vetiver EDT, which give it a bit more staying power.

This is my usual routine in the morning... Only the actors change, the procedure stays the same!

Have a great day!
 
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I thought I would post pictures of the small paper insert that came with the Fasan double slant. I don't read German, so I can't help translate it. The blade that came with the razor is the same three hole blade shown in the picture. Someday, I may try to shave with it.

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Sunday morning with a vintage IB Bakelite slant.
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2 pass + buffing. Shaves very smoothly yet efficiently. My only complaint is the sides of the blade are very exposed, occasionally I nick my nose. But not today!

Enjoy your Sunday!
 
I thought I would post pictures of the small paper insert that came with the Fasan double slant. I don't read German, so I can't help translate it. The blade that came with the razor is the same three hole blade shown in the picture. Someday, I may try to shave with it.

I translated the instructions:

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I am German, if I made any mistakes in my translation, please tell me.
 
Ziglar
 

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Just to add to the discussion and presentation, here are a few of my slants.
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The Muller & Schmidt, which is also called the "pfeilring" -- that translates as "arrowring" like the symbol on the head.

And the incomparable Fasans, the master of the slanted head razors.
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The Fasan all metal is one of the best.

The Apollo also made a range of slants:
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Here is my Hoffritz double slant.
 

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