Black Handled Super Speed Disassembly

I think whatever is causing what u see in the last pic is causing the problem. When i loosten the doors, the one door almost falls against the center part blade holder... then when fully tight, that door is pulled away from the center part.


These are from either side. I tried to capture the space created when tightened.

When loosened, one door acts as it should, but the other seems loose. The good one immediatly starts to open, bit the other sinks and rests on the center piece while the mechanism is opening, until it actually starts to separate.
Man i hope this razor can be saved. Its really nice and i worked really hard getting it to the condition it now is.
Thanks for any input and ideas CAP!!

It definitely sounds like something is bent that is causing this issue. It's difficult to tell exactly what is causing it from the photos. These SS's are a very simple design so it has to be something to do with the t bar and doors.

Captain Murphy said:

It definitely sounds like something is bent that is causing this issue. It's difficult to tell exactly what is causing it from the photos. These SS's are a very simple design so it has to be something to do with the t bar and doors.

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With the combination of your videos and a few others, i tried to tweak the end caps. Low and behold.... it looks pretty good!!!
When it closes they still spread a little, but im going to give it a test shave. If all is well, on to replate!!
Is there a way to check the blade gap for evenness on these SS's?
Thank you for those videos!!
Will this come apart by just unscrewing the screw at the bottom of the handle?
Thank you!!!
Reason for edit: spelling.... smart phone... not so much.

Ok CAP, got a question about this one. Got my hands on a 58 tv special, but sometgings wrong. When i unscrew the knob, the doors dont open, the knob just starts unscrewing. Like theres a ring missing that holds it on. The only thing stopping the knob from coming off is the ring inside on the doors shaft... can you fix this???

If so, this will be one of the ones sent in tge bunch before it goes to chris.
Let me know.
Thanks!!!

stoof2010 said:

With the combination of your videos and a few others, i tried to tweak the end caps. Low and behold.... it looks pretty good!!!
When it closes they still spread a little, but im going to give it a test shave. If all is well, on to replate!!
Is there a way to check the blade gap for evenness on these SS's?
Thank you for those videos!!
Will this come apart by just unscrewing the screw at the bottom of the handle?
Thank you!!!
Reason for edit: spelling.... smart phone... not so much.

Click to expand...

Well done, sir! Success is like a drug Some of the SS's have them little flared ears on the underside of the T-bar that physically stop the head from traveling any further out of the razor but the retainer screw will stop it too. IMO, the design is a little redundant but I can see the idea behind it. On most SS's that I take apart, I bend the ears in and leave em that way.

As far as testing the gap, I suppose you could check it just like an adjustable. Use a feeler gauge and refer to the blade gap chart here on the B&B website. I'd post a link but the Wiki is down right now for maintenance.

stoof2010 said:

Ok CAP, got a question about this one. Got my hands on a 58 tv special, but sometgings wrong. When i unscrew the knob, the doors dont open, the knob just starts unscrewing. Like theres a ring missing that holds it on. The only thing stopping the knob from coming off is the ring inside on the doors shaft... can you fix this???
View attachment 530527
If so, this will be one of the ones sent in tge bunch before it goes to chris.
Let me know.
Thanks!!!

Click to expand...

This is just a common "dropped knob" issue. This is a very common issue on the Gillette TTO's and is simply as result of the inner indentation wearing out over the many years of use and is easily repaired by axially squeezing in that groove with some homemade tools

Captain Murphy said:

Well done, sir! Success is like a drug Some of the SS's have them little flared ears on the underside of the T-bar that physically stop the head from traveling any further out of the razor but the retainer screw will stop it too. IMO, the design is a little redundant but I can see the idea behind it. On most SS's that I take apart, I bend the ears in and leave em that way.

As far as testing the gap, I suppose you could check it just like an adjustable. Use a feeler gauge and refer to the blade gap chart here on the B&B website. I'd post a link but the Wiki is down right now for maintenance.


This is just a common "dropped knob" issue. This is a very common issue on the Gillette TTO's and is simply as result of the inner indentation wearing out over the many years of use and is easily repaired by axially squeezing in that groove with some homemade tools

Click to expand...

Lol. The master at work. What is hard for most is easy for some.
A sigh of relief.

Sir; I have an early flare tip B3, 1956, that has the domed screw with 4 slots that don't intersect across the top of the dome as seen in the 40's style pictured in post #41, bottom picture. In case I missed it, what tool do you use on that screw?

By the choice of CAP in a previous video, i took a 3/16 screwdriver and ground down the shaft and head, then ground a slot in the center and ground down the taper on the tip to fit into the knob. The knob hole is 6mm if it has the screw and not the ring (like yours).
Word of warning... that screw is bare brass so if youre too rough, the screwdriver will eat that screw.
Ive read of people grinding the center out on the jead of the screw to accept a flathead for later disassembly and cleaning, but you have to get it out first.
Hope this helps!!!
Im sure CAP can explain it better than I, but wanted to help.
I can post a pic in a couple hours when im home if u need. Mine was craftsman so the shaft was square and exactly 6mm fom one point to the other, thus the grinding of the shaft.
Oh, and CAP posted it earlier, but after the screw is out you need to bend in those tabs on the dog ears under the plate to disassemble it.
Happy tinkering!!! Be careful and dont break anything lol.

stoof2010 said:

I can post a pic in a couple hours when im home if u need.

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Please do post a pic, if you don't mind. I've seen some of the pics that Cap has put up, but it never hurts to see more. I am considering working up a tool like this.


TL

TexLaw said:

Please do post a pic, if you don't mind. I've seen some of the pics that Cap has put up, but it never hurts to see more. I am considering working up a tool like this.


TL

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Mine is a bit crude, lol, but it works. It was a rush job.


I will make a better one. Just needed to get a screw out of one and into another. The screwdriver had a broken head. Hence all the grinding.

mswofford said:

Sir; I have an early flare tip B3, 1956, that has the domed screw with 4 slots that don't intersect across the top of the dome as seen in the 40's style pictured in post #41, bottom picture. In case I missed it, what tool do you use on that screw?

Click to expand...

Thanks, Stefan!

mswofford said:

Thanks, Stefan!

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No problem!!! Good luck!!! It gets pretty gunky inside some of those!!!

Great job on fabricating that screwdriver, Stefan. If it works, that's all that matters, right? Just keep in mind, most of them retainer screws are reverse thread but some Gillette models are normal threads, like the Sheraton. Have fun

Captain Murphy said:

Great job on fabricating that screwdriver, Stefan. If it works, that's all that matters, right? Just keep in mind, most of them retainer screws are reverse thread but some Gillette models are normal threads, like the Sheraton. Have fun

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Thanks cap. This one is just temporary lol. It was broke so i figured, why not. Lol
I was able to switch the screw from a messy SS to the one i want to send over.
Only thing holding me up is the NEW that i ordered 2 weeks ago, starting to think it got lost...

stoof2010 said:

Thanks cap. This one is just temporary lol. It was broke so i figured, why not. Lol
I was able to switch the screw from a messy SS to the one i want to send over.
Only thing holding me up is the NEW that i ordered 2 weeks ago, starting to think it got lost...

Click to expand...

I hope it turns up soon! Don't let Edgar know that you lost a NEW, he will go out and find it!

Thank you! I think I have a good idea of what I need to do!


TL

Captain Murphy said:

Just keep in mind, most of them retainer screws are reverse thread Have fun

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Good tip! Now that you mention it, the reverse threads are clear in the bottom picture of post #41.

Here is a superspeed that was sent to me in a lot by @Greene301. This one looks like it has been exposed to some heat at one point in its life. Lets take a look:

Here's the SS disassembled: