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Re-Finishing a Strop

A member here PIFed me an incredible gift - a Tony Miller strop. When he sent it, it had a small nick in it that he had repaired with super glue and light sanding. I knew I eventually wanted to replace that part and Tony has replacement leather pieces - no worries there. I also knew I was going to add my own nicks to it so I restrained myself and it's a good damned thing I did.

There is something wrong with my style so I have been slowing down and paying attention more. I think I'm not nicking it anymore but who can tell with all the nicks there so it's time to try to sand it as so many people here have suggested.

I must warn those with heart problems or weak stomachs. These pictures are graphic!

$photo 1.jpg

This is the end towards the handle and you can see where the "inside" edge has taken a beating. I even managed to "top" the leather and I have no idea how I did that one. Probably when I was trying to look like a guy in a movie rather than paying attention.

Here's the strop after 180 and 320 grit on my random orbit sander. Why those grits? The 180 was as course as I wanted to go and the 320 was the finest they has at Lowedepot.

$photo 2.jpg

Yes that's the same strop, the same part. You can see some discoloration where I "topped" the leather but it's smooth now and that's good enough for me. There's some hair/dirt on there too causing other cut-looking parts but this is a smooth as a baby's bottom. Total time sanding was less than 5 minutes including finding an extension cord.

I'd also read after one does this to use a tallow-based soap on it so I lathered up some P.160 since I used it already this morning and gave it a nice lather:

$photo 3.jpg

It's drying on a flat surface and tomorrow morning I'll give it a good rubbing before I put it all together and use it. Hopefully I'm done cutting it and I can put that new leather piece on and display it like the work of art it is!
 
You're right, those pictures are not for the faint of heart. Looks like it will work out fine. Let us know after you remove the lather and give your straight a few laps.
 
Nice job; nice to see her cleaned up a bit!
Heya Tim! Yeah I was really hesitant to post that for fear you'd yell at me for not taking care of it. I think I'm getting better, we'll see. It's definitely been doing it's part to help keep my edge refined.

You're right, those pictures are not for the faint of heart. Looks like it will work out fine. Let us know after you remove the lather and give your straight a few laps.
I will do so sir. I'm sure it will draw different since this is no longer really grained, probably more technically a really fine nubuck like suede, but it's definitely very smooth so we'll see. You can't feel any nap to it but I could see the fingerprints in it. Maybe the tallow will calm that down.

ETA: These were ceramic sanding pads too. My hope is that they would shed less grit. Before I soaped up the strop I also shook it off, blew it off with an air hose, and then ran it under running water to get rid of any remaining grit.
 
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Poifect! Great job. What you made yourself there is a piece of split leather, often sold as Russian leather.

And don't be afraid to do the same thing again- there are a LOT more strops lurking under that one should you nick it or even just want a different finish.

What you put onto the raw leather surface will make a big difference in the strop's draw, sound and how well it works. With lather, it will probably have a fair amount of draw and be a little 'sticky' (although it will work fine). Some of us prefer a faster, slicker strop and a leather cleaner or conditioner with glycerin in it will make the strop pretty fast. Carnauba wax worked into the raw leather and then buffed off as hard as you can with a towel will leave an almost zero- draw strop that will also work quite well.

Nice job and please do let us know how you like it.

Brian

A member here PIFed me an incredible gift - a Tony Miller strop. When he sent it, it had a small nick in it that he had repaired with super glue and light sanding. I knew I eventually wanted to replace that part and Tony has replacement leather pieces - no worries there. I also knew I was going to add my own nicks to it so I restrained myself and it's a good damned thing I did.

There is something wrong with my style so I have been slowing down and paying attention more. I think I'm not nicking it anymore but who can tell with all the nicks there so it's time to try to sand it as so many people here have suggested.

I must warn those with heart problems or weak stomachs. These pictures are graphic!



This is the end towards the handle and you can see where the "inside" edge has taken a beating. I even managed to "top" the leather and I have no idea how I did that one. Probably when I was trying to look like a guy in a movie rather than paying attention.

Here's the strop after 180 and 320 grit on my random orbit sander. Why those grits? The 180 was as course as I wanted to go and the 320 was the finest they has at Lowedepot.

View attachment 486603

Yes that's the same strop, the same part. You can see some discoloration where I "topped" the leather but it's smooth now and that's good enough for me. There's some hair/dirt on there too causing other cut-looking parts but this is a smooth as a baby's bottom. Total time sanding was less than 5 minutes including finding an extension cord.

I'd also read after one does this to use a tallow-based soap on it so I lathered up some P.160 since I used it already this morning and gave it a nice lather:

View attachment 486605

It's drying on a flat surface and tomorrow morning I'll give it a good rubbing before I put it all together and use it. Hopefully I'm done cutting it and I can put that new leather piece on and display it like the work of art it is!
 
Carnuba wax? As in Car wax?

from Wikipedia = Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, dental floss, food products such as sweets, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture waxes and polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax and with turpentine. ... It is also the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil.

I have the other three items, I wonder in what proportions they should be mixed to make a strop dressing?
 
Carnuba wax? As in Car wax?

from Wikipedia = Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, dental floss, food products such as sweets, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture waxes and polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax and with turpentine. ... It is also the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil.

I have the other three items, I wonder in what proportions they should be mixed to make a strop dressing?
Straight Carnauba is the only thing I use on my leather strops, I won't even rub them with my hand. I also do a quick wipe with a damp towel followed by a vigorous rub with a dry towel after I'm done using them every day. Carnauba is an unbelievably hard wax.
 
And here it is complete. Definitely a little lighter, there is some variability in color but I'm not too concerned about that. When I was sanding the RO was throwing it all over the place. A second pair of hands would have been good. Still it did what I wanted it to do. In a perfect world I think I would liked to have had a piece of even finer, maybe 600, to finish. This morning I gave it a brisk rub with a towel, then burnished it a bit with a heavy/smooth glass ashtray thingie.

$photo.jpg

I stropped today's razor and it definitely had a lot more draw and sing from the blade, but not as bad as I would have thought. I think it will work just fine while I make sure I'm done nicking it.
 
Yep, the car wax.

Some of you may be old enough to remember "And it is not just a floor polish, it is also a great dessert topping". ROFL

The wax fills the pores in leather pretty much and provides a very slick surface to strop on. As the other poster says, a wipe with a damp towel is needed though because otherwise the wax hardens and the strop ends up about as effective as waxed paper, at least in my experience. A damp towel tends to raise the nap of the leather just a touch and leave the strop much more effective, at least I think so.

Brian

Carnuba wax? As in Car wax?

from Wikipedia = Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, dental floss, food products such as sweets, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture waxes and polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax and with turpentine. ... It is also the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil.

I have the other three items, I wonder in what proportions they should be mixed to make a strop dressing?
 
Thanks, I'll have to find some. Where do you source yours?
Woodcraft has blocks of it. I don't think auto wax containing carnauba is what you want as it is too soft IMO. This stuff is like a piece of hard plastic, I can't even mark it with a fingernail.
 
I use the stuff sold for waxing autos. Rub the stuff in pretty well with your hand and fingers- it seems to work best if you drive as much wax down into the leather as it will take. Some have mentioned using a glass (like a drinking glass) to drive the wax into the leather and that would make sense to me. Allow it to dry thoroughly and then get really aggressive with it with a coarse piece of cloth and a lot of pressure. The leather will take on a soft luster or shine and have almost no draw. A wipe with a damp or even slightly wet cloth will bring up the nap of the leather so it will be slick but have some aggression on the blade (wait until it is totally dry before using). You should hear an increase in stropping noise after a touch of water.

Brian

Thanks, I'll have to find some. Where do you source yours?
 
I've been using the damp cloth when I'm done for the day, just to keep any glaze off the strop. The strop is dry when I use it.
 
I have been using this method of yours lately and it really does 'rejuvenate' the strop and make it far more effective- and louder too. It does not last long but as you say, the damp towel thing can be done everyday.

Thanks for passing this idea along.

Brian

I've been using the damp cloth when I'm done for the day, just to keep any glaze off the strop. The strop is dry when I use it.
 
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