Am I missing anything? (JNAT thread)
- Thread starter CartridgesAreADrag
- Start date
Yeah pics of Ruhr razors you've honed on it hahaha jk nope u got everything that u need
is there a video of someone using those kinds of stones?
- Thread starter
- #4
Hees I actually had Buca throw in a GD66 as a tester for learning to hone on JNATS. I'll post some honing pics later. Actually... How do I tell each if the stones from eachother?
I can't read the stamps on the top one but bottom left is tenjyou, middle is koma and bottom right is botan the unmarked ones are tomo
TomoNagura.com
Top one must be mejiro
Are you missing anything..... I'd say no, what you have is enough to give you wonderful edges for a long long time.
Missing anything?
More rocks!
That is just the tip of the ice rug. In a couple of years you'll look back fondly on when you only had a small batch of rocks.
More rocks!
That is just the tip of the ice rug. In a couple of years you'll look back fondly on when you only had a small batch of rocks.
What brooksie (Jeremy) told me when I started:
Jnat process
After setting your bevel it's time to go to botan on your ozuku. I typically run the stone under water and wipe it off with my hand so there is still some water on the surface but not so much that your slurry is going to be a sloppy mess. Now, you're going to have to play around with how much slurry you are using but you want it looking pretty milky.
With that slurry you want to work it until it not only visibly breaks down but you'll be able to feel the grit getting finer and finer. You also want to pay attention to the colour of the slurry. I don't know if you hone with or without tape but i find the slurry breaks down better when you don't use tape. The slurry will start to tint grey. At this point you have some learning to do. If you don't have a loupe, it helps to get one so you can start associating feedback and slurry properties with the state of your bevel. You should be working your botan slurry until you can't see 1k scratches anymore.
If you can still see 1k scratches you can make another botan slurry and work it all over again. I don't really dilute botan much if at all, maybe a tiny bit if it starts to dry out. It should never feel dry or pasty, but needs to be wet.
A good trick to use when starting out with the slurry is make the slurry and let it settle. Look at the little particles in the matrix. Once the colour change and feel change have occurded you can, for learning purposes, add a tiny bit of water and watch the slurry particles settle; they should be significantly different.
Typically one botan is enough, 2 is the most i've ever had to use.
After botan you're going to notice a nice haze developing on your edge. Repeat the above steps for the Tenjyou. Watch for all the signs of slurry breaking down. What you're looking for here is a refinement in the haze. Botan is going to leave a very misty looking finish. Tenjyous finish will still be misty but a little more mirrored and refined. Since you don't have a Mejiro, you may want to do 2 tenjyou slurries as well but that's for you to decide when you play around with it. I'd say be safe and do two to start and if your results are excellent try one the next time you hone and see if you have any difference in outcome.
Koma. Your koma SHOULD veel very chalky and creamy and smooth! They are typically very fast acting abrasives that really add a level of refinement that I believe is necessary. I never used to think that until I tried it.
Typically you should only need one koma slurry to complete the refinement process. Plus it's expensive so you want to be saving that thing
TOMO:
Here's where problems can happen. If your tomo is too hard and you notice scratching then inspect your tomo. Actually, inspect it before you use it. Round off any sharp edges before starting out.
Depending on how hard the tomo is, it might take quite a while to raise a nice slurry. Be patient and don't skimp on this step. If you work a tomo properly you will be rewarded with stunningly smooth and sharp edges. Depending on the stone that I use, one slurry is enough but I almost always, at this point, get better results with two slurries. I will typically dilute the slurry one time.
You can try soaking your tomo nagura for 5 or 10 minutes to help soften it up just a little bit. Yes it does help.
Jnats on water only have proven to be quite harsh to me. The slurry acts as an abrasive but also as a buffer between the steel and stone.
Jnat process
After setting your bevel it's time to go to botan on your ozuku. I typically run the stone under water and wipe it off with my hand so there is still some water on the surface but not so much that your slurry is going to be a sloppy mess. Now, you're going to have to play around with how much slurry you are using but you want it looking pretty milky.
With that slurry you want to work it until it not only visibly breaks down but you'll be able to feel the grit getting finer and finer. You also want to pay attention to the colour of the slurry. I don't know if you hone with or without tape but i find the slurry breaks down better when you don't use tape. The slurry will start to tint grey. At this point you have some learning to do. If you don't have a loupe, it helps to get one so you can start associating feedback and slurry properties with the state of your bevel. You should be working your botan slurry until you can't see 1k scratches anymore.
If you can still see 1k scratches you can make another botan slurry and work it all over again. I don't really dilute botan much if at all, maybe a tiny bit if it starts to dry out. It should never feel dry or pasty, but needs to be wet.
A good trick to use when starting out with the slurry is make the slurry and let it settle. Look at the little particles in the matrix. Once the colour change and feel change have occurded you can, for learning purposes, add a tiny bit of water and watch the slurry particles settle; they should be significantly different.
Typically one botan is enough, 2 is the most i've ever had to use.
After botan you're going to notice a nice haze developing on your edge. Repeat the above steps for the Tenjyou. Watch for all the signs of slurry breaking down. What you're looking for here is a refinement in the haze. Botan is going to leave a very misty looking finish. Tenjyous finish will still be misty but a little more mirrored and refined. Since you don't have a Mejiro, you may want to do 2 tenjyou slurries as well but that's for you to decide when you play around with it. I'd say be safe and do two to start and if your results are excellent try one the next time you hone and see if you have any difference in outcome.
Koma. Your koma SHOULD veel very chalky and creamy and smooth! They are typically very fast acting abrasives that really add a level of refinement that I believe is necessary. I never used to think that until I tried it.
Typically you should only need one koma slurry to complete the refinement process. Plus it's expensive so you want to be saving that thing
TOMO:
Here's where problems can happen. If your tomo is too hard and you notice scratching then inspect your tomo. Actually, inspect it before you use it. Round off any sharp edges before starting out.
Depending on how hard the tomo is, it might take quite a while to raise a nice slurry. Be patient and don't skimp on this step. If you work a tomo properly you will be rewarded with stunningly smooth and sharp edges. Depending on the stone that I use, one slurry is enough but I almost always, at this point, get better results with two slurries. I will typically dilute the slurry one time.
You can try soaking your tomo nagura for 5 or 10 minutes to help soften it up just a little bit. Yes it does help.
Jnats on water only have proven to be quite harsh to me. The slurry acts as an abrasive but also as a buffer between the steel and stone.
- Thread starter
- #14
Here is a pic of the family. Coti to the right and Thuri to the top
Close up of the Suita
Close up of the Suita
All of those marks look the same! Is it the red marks you are looking at? If so has anyone made a reference for the rest of us poor schmucks?
http://www.japanesenaturalstones.com/naguras/
They are listed in finest to least finest order (opposite order that you would use them)
Wow ... looking at that I *still* don't get it.
So looking at this rock:
Okay I see "Superior Selected Grade" 別上 here:
And Koma (コマ) here:
What is this symbol on the JapaneseNaturalStones website next to the one for Koma: 細 ? Same with all of them, it's in parentheses.
And, what's the other two stamps? Can a guy count on the grit and quality always being in that sort of arrangement (top and bottom left)?
ETA: Someone PMed me to tell me you hold the stone with the "the red asano stamp to the top right. The bottom left identifies which nagura it is"
Not sure what Asano is but it's a start.
ETA Again: I see "Asano" is in the bottom of the red box: 浅野 What's the symbol on top and what does Asano signify then? It's a clan name according to teh interwebz.
So looking at this rock:
Okay I see "Superior Selected Grade" 別上 here:
And Koma (コマ) here:
What is this symbol on the JapaneseNaturalStones website next to the one for Koma: 細 ? Same with all of them, it's in parentheses.
And, what's the other two stamps? Can a guy count on the grit and quality always being in that sort of arrangement (top and bottom left)?
ETA: Someone PMed me to tell me you hold the stone with the "the red asano stamp to the top right. The bottom left identifies which nagura it is"
Not sure what Asano is but it's a start.
ETA Again: I see "Asano" is in the bottom of the red box: 浅野 What's the symbol on top and what does Asano signify then? It's a clan name according to teh interwebz.
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With the red stamp in top right only the left two stamps are what we care about... The two stamps on the right are origin stamps and don't really add anything to the use of the stones
