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Looking for help on properly sizing wedge geometry to shank thickness.

Hi Everyone - haven't posted on here for some time but I thought it worthwhile just making a few points about wedges.

The pivot hole in a razor is always drilled where the tang tapers from the spine - therefore, even with internal washers the spine will rub against the scales unless there is a curve in the scales to accomodate the wider spine width. For that reason, a wedge is used so that when pinned (and/or glued) in place, it creates the curve that allows the blade to close in the scales without catching. Obviously, the back end of the wedge must be of a size for correct depth of seating - but the wedge angle must also be customised depending on how much taper there is from the spine.

I generally do this by trial and error - plus I have a home-made guide for sanding wedges - but I'm sure if you wanted, you could calculate the exact angle.
 
Trial and error it will be. I thought I read once about a mathematical way to determine it but I simply can't find it and it may not have been accurate anyway.

I do like your setup though. I'm with Doc on the tape to finger method due to lack of a workshop.
 
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