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Kitchen Stoves

Which type of kitchen stove do you prefer?

  • Gas

  • Electric

  • Other


Results are only viewable after voting.
Gas.

Power goes out, Just light it with a match. Bingo you can still cook, heat water, etc. In a dire emergency, you can even turn the oven up, open the door a bit, and keep the kitchen warm so you don't freeze. Just keep a fresh battery in your CO detector...

However, a good electric oven/range works just fine. I hope to find a house with gas, if not, I'll make do. To be honest I don't use the oven much, just the range and the grill :)
 
Well, I won't claim to be an expert - I suppose you could use some sort of inductive load sensing to get a feel for how much "juice" was being soaked up by the pot, but I'm rather dubious about how easy it would be to do this when your sensor and field generatorare all in the same plane underneath the load. I'd bet that the "temperature" setting on your cooktop is just a direct translation of power output as you guessed.
This would make sense, as it would be an easy calculation to figure out. And it should remain consistent from one cooking session to the next.

But, assuming the same level of power consumption, wouldn't different pots and pans react differently and produce varying temperatures? Some induction owners use cast iron, some use stainless steel, and each of these have varying thicknesses. I would think that a stainless steel pan might not get as hot as a cast iron pan given the same magnetic field.
 
Gas with cast iron burners

Same here.

Thought I had a better pic but this one will have to do.

During the kitchen construction phase in our cabin.

30" (small) DCS. Was dancing a jig when I found it NOS and the appliance dealer just "wanted that old thing gone"

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Found this later pic which shows the large 30k btu cast iron burners (a little anyway)

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That is sweet. Mine is a lower end GE but it is an old workhorse.

I have 2 DCS stoves, a 36" with a grill here and the 30" 4 burner at the cabin. I figure they are a one time purchase and when I die someone will be happy to get them. I like to cook and a good stove makes it more enjoyable

Found an online pic of the burner.

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That's awesome. I'd love to remodel our kitchen and get a "pro" level stove like that one of these days. I have no idea what's good though. All the reviews I've read recently on stuff like Viking/etc. make it sound like they've turned into cheap junk :(
 
This would make sense, as it would be an easy calculation to figure out. And it should remain consistent from one cooking session to the next.

But, assuming the same level of power consumption, wouldn't different pots and pans react differently and produce varying temperatures? Some induction owners use cast iron, some use stainless steel, and each of these have varying thicknesses. I would think that a stainless steel pan might not get as hot as a cast iron pan given the same magnetic field.

Yes. That was exactly the point I made originally. :confused1


Analogue Electronics 2100 was a long time ago, but what I was trying to say there is that it may be technically possible to measure the magnetic field distortion caused by the pot and thereby estimate how much energy was going into it. Since there's not much else for that energy to do in the pot than surge around and turn into resistive heat, the type of pot material (ie, the purity/composition of the iron ) wouldn't matter too much in the long run if we know how much energy is going in. The amount of material (ie thickness of the pot) is something I'm a bit less sure about. It would certainly play a role in how long it took to reach a stable temperature, but... assuming all pots have about the same width (ie they just cover the 'ring' on the stove) I'm not sure if the final temperature would actually be much different or not. I started out thinking that it wouldn't, but while writing this I think I've convinced myself that it would.

Anyways, I'm pretty certain that is all moot - the geometry of the situation (pot on top of flat stovetop) makes it at best highly impractical (if not impossible) to make the kind of magnetic field measurements that would be necessary.


In short - I think the "exact temperature setting" is bunkum and was calibrated to a specific pan intended to be as "average" as possible.
 
After doing more research it does appear there are temperature sensors underneath some of these induction cooktops. This Thermador model uses an infrared sensor and this Bosch uses a trademarked name called 'AutoChef'. I did notice that my single burner hotplate on the boil setting would not excessively boil water no matter how much water was in the pot.
 
After doing more research it does appear there are temperature sensors underneath some of these induction cooktops. This Thermador model uses an infrared sensor and this Bosch uses a trademarked name called 'AutoChef'. I did notice that my single burner hotplate on the boil setting would not excessively boil water no matter how much water was in the pot.

:blushing:
Well, yes, I suppose that's a much more sensible way of approaching the problem.
 
I do appreciate all the feedback and skepticism on induction cooktops, whether it is about extra noise (clicks) or temperature control issues. Another poster on a different forum is quite critical of the temperature reading accuracy. I care more about repeatability than absolute accuracy (meaning an actual 200F temp reported as only 185F might be okay if it was consistent each time). I am in no rush to upgrade, but it getting good information appears to be difficult.
 
you could pack me in the double oven and stick it in the ground with me when I am gone if I owned one :yesnod:
 
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