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The Importance of Face Mapping

So, I have been shaving with straights for two years and never been able to get my neck better than passable. Even with a 3 pass (with, across, against) a close-ish look, showed some stubble under my jaw. I also have had some intermittent ingrown hairs on the right side of my face by my jawline.

I am just discovering that the main problem was that I didn't have a good "face map". I was treating my passes as first north-south, the east-west/west-east and finally south north, regardless of whether this was actually with, across and against the grain.

Recently, I have been shaving with DEs from time to time, and if you don't know how your hair grows, those things will rip you up nicely. After some bad shaves, I began watching the classic Mantic videos on DE shaving, and following his advice, I grew out my beard for a few days and finally figured out how my hair grows. I now know that my neck hair grows left to right on my left, vice versa on my right and north south on my Adam's apple. Also, my hair on my face along my right jawline grows right to left, while the rest is north south. Thus, my passes weren't really doing what they should. I was missing hairs on my neck almost altogether, because I had to have an almost non-existent angle to avoid ripping out my hairs on a north-south fist pass, and was doing an against the grain shave stroke on my first pass on the right side of my face, thus the ingrown hairs.

I have, in the past few weeks, been adjusting my passes to reflect the way my hair actually grows. My passes are now all mixed up in terms of direction, but are now properly with, across, and against the grain. It was weird at first, but I am now used to it, and my shaves are a million times better. My neck gets a damn fine shave and my face is perfectly smooth, with no ingrown hairs.

I know this is nothing new, but I thought I'd share how much of a difference this has made to me, in hopes that some beginners might take the time to learn their beards.

Happy shaving.

Steve
 
This was the biggest thing that improved my DE shaves. Looking forward to applying what I learned to straights.
 
This was the biggest thing that improved my DE shaves. Looking forward to applying what I learned to straights.

It took me trying DEs to finally figure out how important this was. I figured that if it tugged on first pass, my razor was dull. As I learned to hone better (and bought professionally honed straights) and was sure that this wasn't the case, I was flummoxed. The less variable angle of a DE made it very clear that I was on the wrong path, and I am so glad I finally took this very basic piece of advice. It only took me two years...I guess I am a genius.
 
Devil's Wet Shaving Advocate here.

If you do multiple passes in multiple directions, what does it matter which way the hair grows (other than for curiosity's sake)?

If I shave the whisker right at its intersection with my skin, what does it matter how long or which way it grows above where I cut?
 
Devil's Wet Shaving Advocate here.

If you do multiple passes in multiple directions, what does it matter which way the hair grows (other than for curiosity's sake)?

If I shave the whisker right at its intersection with my skin, what does it matter how long or which way it grows above where I cut?

Sounds like it would be true, but I for one find that when your beard has not been "reduced" by a prior pass, going across or against the grain tugs and can result in irritation or ingrowns. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can tell you why. This is just my own experience.
 
Sounds like it would be true, but I for one find that when your beard has not been "reduced" by a prior pass, going across or against the grain tugs and can result in irritation or ingrowns. Maybe someone more knowledgeable can tell you why. This is just my own experience.

Interesting. If my razor tugs in any direction, I usually think it's time for a touch up.
 
Its definitely important to hit the whiskers from all sides, but with a straight I am just not able to do a real XTG pass on the neck area, it just won't work, not enough room for the blade to cut that way. I usually get away with doing a semi-xtg pass, but that's about it. I've learned to live with it.
 
Interesting. If my razor tugs in any direction, I usually think it's time for a touch up.

I can shave a strip north south on the right side of my face, and the top half, which grows north south, will be fine, but the lower half will tug a bit, as it grows left right. This is all one small strip with a freshly stripped, sharp blade. May have to do with beard coarseness, too. I have no idea.
 
Its definitely important to hit the whiskers from all sides, but with a straight I am just not able to do a real XTG pass on the neck area, it just won't work, not enough room for the blade to cut that way. I usually get away with doing a semi-xtg pass, but that's about it. I've learned to live with it.

I'm kind of lucky in a weird way, because my xtg on my neck is north south for the most part, as my beard grows sideways out from the center of my neck. It's the atg that's trickier, but some creative neck twisting and razor handling gets it done for the most part.

What do you call a sort of slicing type stroke, like an arc? That's what I do atg on my neck. Sounds horrible now that I'm writing it, but it works for me.
 
I'm kind of lucky in a weird way, because my xtg on my neck is north south for the most part, as my beard grows sideways out from the center of my neck. It's the atg that's trickier, but some creative neck twisting and razor handling gets it done for the most part.

What do you call a sort of slicing type stroke, like an arc? That's what I do atg on my neck. Sounds horrible now that I'm writing it, but it works for me.

Scything maybe? But yeah my whiskers grow the same way around my neck area (sideways out from the center). It really is the worst spot. I do my best but its rarely perfect. I've learned to live with it.
 
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