Ask lots of questions here.. Pm ppl here ... Lots of ppl willing to help
Honing 101
- Thread starter noahpictures
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #42
We were all beginners at one point, made mistakes and wasted a lot of time by not asking questions or following directions.
please share your thoughts on DMT 1.2k and above
I also prefer the Chosera, but the major advantage to the DMT 1200 is that it does not need to be lapped. You should spend extra time on the grit following to remove ALL of the scratches from the DMT.
I have an EEF that is purported to be 8000k. New, it was coarser than the 1200. Even after 30 minutes trying to break it in with a screwdriver and an old razor, it was leaving deeper scratches than my broken-in 1200. Also, the my EEF rusts easily, unlike any other DMT I have.
I have an EEF that is purported to be 8000k. New, it was coarser than the 1200. Even after 30 minutes trying to break it in with a screwdriver and an old razor, it was leaving deeper scratches than my broken-in 1200. Also, the my EEF rusts easily, unlike any other DMT I have.
Is there a web site or Wiki that contains everything one would want or need to know about JNats from A to Z?
I just bought a really nice stone from Keith but feel as though I am peppering him every 5 minutes with questions
I just bought a really nice stone from Keith but feel as though I am peppering him every 5 minutes with questions
Keith's site is FULL of great information. I've read every page at least 3 times.
Is that Gamma? Yes his site is great. There's also a lot on coticule.be believe it or not.
Yes. Gammas site here http://www.tomonagura.com/
So here's what I'm thinking ... see if it makes sense.
I've heard enough opinions from people I trust to make me believe I want a Chosera 1K at some point. Is it safe to say a guy new to this could get a DMT to start out, and then a Chosera after? It seems a logical progression because one would learn to not screw up a stone by first using the plate. Then, the DMT can be used to lap the Chosera whenever it's time to get that. No waste and a logical progression.
Does that seem reasonable or am I missing something?
The best compromise I've found for justifying buying a DMT is that either way, you'll want one at some point to lap your stones. If you buy a two-sided one, 325/1200, you can use the 325 to lap your stones, and the 1200 to set the bevels (until you buy a dedicated bevel-setter). I've used the 1200 for over a year and probably set 75-100 bevels on it, and I'm sure I'll buy the Choosera 1k at some point when I sell a few things, but in the meantime the dmt has been invaluable, both to set bevels and lap stones with the 325.
As a bonus, if you buy some big wedges on ebay that need a LOT of work, you can use the 325 to remove the bulk of it.
As a bonus, if you buy some big wedges on ebay that need a LOT of work, you can use the 325 to remove the bulk of it.
How does one "screw up" a 1k Chosera?
OK - yes, I have been raking over the site. I'll keep sifting through for all the nuggets
Thanks!
I'll tell you what Lee. I have a Norton 1K that I will give to you. If you screw that up, you are not allowed to play with stones ever again. Send me a PM if you want it.
Frank
IMO dmts have a place when you need a lot of steel removed. And Im talking more than a factory gd, that can be done easily with a stone. If you decide to hone for a bit, these will all get used so theres no waste here. AT least thats the way I look at it. Norton 1k as a PIF is a great offer!
Sure is, if he don't want it, I'll be glad to give you my address.
noobie question. when lapping the naniwa 12k with the dmt d8c.
1. do i use water with it?
2. how long do i have to keep rubbing them together?
i plan to buy these stones just to maintain my razors. not for bevel setting. i dont want to mail it out for honing, as i am not planning to buy a lot of razors. thanks for the advice guys
1. do i use water with it?
2. how long do i have to keep rubbing them together?
i plan to buy these stones just to maintain my razors. not for bevel setting. i dont want to mail it out for honing, as i am not planning to buy a lot of razors. thanks for the advice guys
Yes, under running water to lessen the sticking
Until the Naniwa is flat! Mark a criss-cross pattern on the Naniwa with a pencil, and lap until it all comes off. Then as a final check, mark it lightly again and it should all come off with just a few more lapping strokes.
I assume one could wear a groove in it for instance. I've not used a stone but I've seen them laying around in the garage in my father's tools and those were ... not flat.
Thanks Frank! I replied to your PM as well. My laptop died on me or I would have replied earlier. I HATE having to re-install everything!
I am a coticule guy. I have used Arks for many years on knives, but where razors are concerned I am a coticule guy. None of this will shock the coticule initiated, but for the sake of others I have a few thoughts. First of all, they are all different! I mean they are all different. Mined from the same vein they will differ. Different veins differ. The bloody things are all just different! With that said, they can with only extremely rare exception arrive at the same place of a very sharp, very smooth shaving edge. Now I believe some myths exist about coticules primarily to try and help the new user from making a big mistake. The first is pressure. Take everything you ever read about "weight of the blade" strokes with a giant grain of salt. You can stand in front of your stone celebrating birthdays trying to achieve everything with only weight of the blade strokes. Some pressure can be used on coticules just as with any other stone. Perhaps less is used on a coti, but experiment with pressure on your coti just as you would with any stone. Much of the learning curve with coticule hones is learning how much pressure your hone wants and at what point. The general guideline of start with some pressure and steadily decrease is only the beginning. I have stones that want moderate pressure for only a very short time in the beginning on heavy slurry, but in the middle phases want it for much longer. I have one rock that if you don't use some pressure on the final water only stage you can rub till you know what freezes over and accomplish nothing! Another stone that is the same size and very similar appearance that does want true weight of the blade strokes for the last 20 or so on water alone to give the finest edge. So how do we get to know a brand new coti rock. I use and recommend learning the HHT. It is not an easy test to learn and yes it has flaws, but once learned is quick, easy and repeatable. Don't even waste one brain cell on comparing your HHT to someone else. Use it to compare your results to your results. Watch the videos and play with it till you learn it and then you will have a guide that will tell you how your edge is compared to your last edge and I find that valuable information. This is from a guy by the way that used to hate the thing because I couldn't make it work. Then we need to exercise some patience. I start by doing what I call a standard honing dilution. Medium heavy slurry medium pressure and slowly reduce both as the strokes continue, but concentrate and work at feeling what the edge is doing on the hone. That elusive feedback. One of the differences between cotis is some give good really easy to understand feedback and some give very little. The La Grise vein stones got beat up for a while as being tough to learn, but I think the truth is much closer to they only whisper feedback where others yell it right in your face. I had a La Grise that was giving me trouble and Gary (known coti master) fixed me in one sentence. "Don't be afraid to throw a little pressure at that rock and up your stroke count." (Paraphrased, could not find the original) Bang! Just like that it started giving up fantastic edges. This has gotten huge! I'll chime in again later if anybody finds it interesting.
