What's new

Honing 101

You guys get all bent out of shape on what word a guy uses and spend 5x more effort arguing that than trying to help him. He gave what he meant in the context of his question well enough for me to understand it, so I know you guys who are more accomplished should be able to figure it out. It's amusing to me but if I was trying to get an answer instead of a grammar lesson I might be frustrated.
Thank-you for your support.

Though the English definitions of sharp and keen may make them synonyms, it is quite common in technical fields to narrowly define a term to precisely convey an idea. As has been pointed out, this can cause confusion if the reader is not familiar with the technical definition but that doesn't mean it's wrong or not useful.
Thank-you also for your support.

I am tracking with what you are describing, but I don't think keen and sharp are differentiated enough for use in this manner. It also leaves a big gap for those that use no secondary bevel. A good argument could be made that all of us that use a hanging strop create at least a tiny amount of convexity to our edge, but what about the paddle strop guys.
You are correct as to the effect of a strop; however, it is the compressibility, not the sag that is responsible. Otherwise, paddle strops would not function.

If you want to make up new words to describe the two characteristics I call keen and sharp, have at it.
 
You guys get all bent out of shape on what word a guy uses and spend 5x more effort arguing that than trying to help him. He gave what he meant in the context of his question well enough for me to understand it, so I know you guys who are more accomplished should be able to figure it out. It's amusing to me but if I was trying to get an answer instead of a grammar lesson I might be frustrated.
I agree. 100%. The answer to the question IMO is he mentioned bevel work at times isnt 100%, Thats a given. Next is continuing to try different combinations of tomos, maybe using a nagura set and making sure the edge is refined well enough up to the finish. Then for the finish slight tiny bit of slurry, more slurry, these have to be all tried out and shave tested. Making sure the slurries are really worked. Once you have "nailed it" then you repeat it to make sure. When I started using Jnats it used to takle me 15 minutes per nagura to break them down enough. And thats before I had chu and koma. So the beginning is keep putting the time in, you will get out what you put in. Most stones IMO are definitely capable of delivering any number of different edges from very sharp to buttery smooth depending on your technique.
 
Last edited:
I agree. 100%. The answer to the question IMO is he mentioned bevel work at times isnt 100%, Thats a given. Next is continuing to try different combinations of tomos, maybe using a nagura set and making sure the edge is refined well enough up to the finish. Then for the finish slight tiny bit of slurry, more slurry, these have to be all tried out and shave tested. Making sure the slurries are really worked. Once you have "nailed it" then you repeat it to make sure. When I started using Jnats it used to takle me 15 minutes per nagura to break them down enough. And thats before I had chu and koma. So the beginning is keep putting the time in, you will get out what you put in. Most stones IMO are definitely capable of delivering any number of different edges from very sharp to buttery smooth depending on your technique.

Hence my original question; buying more tomo: good idea or no? (And yes, I understand no one has a crystal ball and can give a guarantee, but I was hoping for something in the range of, "yes, usually a different tomo makes for a different edge, but not always," or "switching around tomo is very hit-or-miss," or "I did that once and didn't really get anything out of it.") The way I see it, a DMT slurry gets me pretty much the same end results as tomo-slurry, so it may be the hone itself, as opposed to the tomo.

As to the intermediate nagura, a) I tried to simulate that effect with a progression of lapping film, going from bevel set on the Chosera 1k to 9um to 5, to 3, then to a tiny tomo slurry; HHT3. b) I'm not sure I see a need for intermediate refinement, given how fast this slurry cuts. Most of the 1k scratches are gone within a few strokes on a fresh slurry. By the time I'm anywhere close to being done with the slurry they are long gone. The edge is about 95% of the way to where I need it to be, so I'm thinking of how to make it finer, not have more steps to get me to where I already am, if that makes sense.
If I could use an analogy: If I could take a piece of rough-cut lumber and make fifteen or twenty passes with a cabinet scraper and all of the saw marks are gone, and the smoothness of the wood surface is almost (but not quite) where I wanted it to be, I would be looking for a finer scraper, but probably not considering using 230 grit and 400 grit between sawing and scraping.

As to the rest, I'm kinda running out of things to try. I've tried itty bitty slurries, large watery ones, very muddy ones, tomo- and DMT-generated slurries, several slurries in a row. I've tried working it into mud until the surface is almost dry (even though I'm not supposed to,) and tried diluting it down as I go until there's almost nothing left (this gets me as close to anything.) I've done water-only a few times, resulting in an edge that fell apart during the shave (wire edge I'm guessing.)
My most recent experiment is with the lather, and while the hair indicates more cutting ability, it will be the shave that tells the real tale and that won't happen until sometime tomorrow.
If I were getting wildly different results from one honing to the next, or vastly different results along individual edges, I may think it was just me. But as it stands now, I'm beginning to think I've gotten all I can out of this particular stone/tomo. For certain, I'm starting to come up short on new things to try.
And I think I've rambled enough for now....
:tongue_sm
 
Hence my original question; buying more tomo: good idea or no? (And yes, I understand no one has a crystal ball and can give a guarantee, but I was hoping for something in the range of, "yes, usually a different tomo makes for a different edge, but not always," or "switching around tomo is very hit-or-miss," or "I did that once and didn't really get anything out of it.") The way I see it, a DMT slurry gets me pretty much the same end results as tomo-slurry, so it may be the hone itself, as opposed to the tomo.

As to the intermediate nagura, a) I tried to simulate that effect with a progression of lapping film, going from bevel set on the Chosera 1k to 9um to 5, to 3, then to a tiny tomo slurry; HHT3. b) I'm not sure I see a need for intermediate refinement, given how fast this slurry cuts. Most of the 1k scratches are gone within a few strokes on a fresh slurry. By the time I'm anywhere close to being done with the slurry they are long gone. The edge is about 95% of the way to where I need it to be, so I'm thinking of how to make it finer, not have more steps to get me to where I already am, if that makes sense.
If I could use an analogy: If I could take a piece of rough-cut lumber and make fifteen or twenty passes with a cabinet scraper and all of the saw marks are gone, and the smoothness of the wood surface is almost (but not quite) where I wanted it to be, I would be looking for a finer scraper, but probably not considering using 230 grit and 400 grit between sawing and scraping.

As to the rest, I'm kinda running out of things to try. I've tried itty bitty slurries, large watery ones, very muddy ones, tomo- and DMT-generated slurries, several slurries in a row. I've tried working it into mud until the surface is almost dry (even though I'm not supposed to,) and tried diluting it down as I go until there's almost nothing left (this gets me as close to anything.) I've done water-only a few times, resulting in an edge that fell apart during the shave (wire edge I'm guessing.)
My most recent experiment is with the lather, and while the hair indicates more cutting ability, it will be the shave that tells the real tale and that won't happen until sometime tomorrow.
If I were getting wildly different results from one honing to the next, or vastly different results along individual edges, I may think it was just me. But as it stands now, I'm beginning to think I've gotten all I can out of this particular stone/tomo. For certain, I'm starting to come up short on new things to try.
And I think I've rambled enough for now....

:tongue_sm

I've been through that as well with my first jnat. I ended up getting a refund on it. Since then I acquired a second one which gets me results that are a tiny bit sharper, but still lacking for my preference (and I think its a matter of preference at this stage), using a dmt 1200 for the slurry. I'm waiting for Brooksie to get back from vacation (or whatever he calls work in HawaiI) so I can bug him to send me some tomos to try. Is it the stone, or the tomo? I don't know yet, but I suspect with a better/finer tomo I may get to where I want.

In the meantime I've been using lapping film on my jnat hahaha :)
 
Ok, so you think the bevel and the mid work is spot on, work the finishing slurry to death then and see, play around with the consistency and the water levels in these and see where it gets you. Jnats are a slurry dance, nothing more. it can be frustrating I know, but once you got it, well you got it. And just so you know, it does take time to get it as good as doc can. But I will tell you this, you will only get better at it if you keep at it. I think from what youve said that your very close. I wish I could be more helpful but from here it looks like that. It took me almost a month to get a decent edge off my first jnat. If I gave up on the 29th day, then I would have nothing.
 
Ok, so you think the bevel and the mid work is spot on, work the finishing slurry to death (did that) then and see, play around with the consistency and the water levels in these and see where it gets you.(did those, too.) Jnats are a slurry dance, nothing more. it can be frustrating I know, but once you got it, well you got it. And just so you know, it does take time to get it as good as doc can. But I will tell you this, you will only get better at it if you keep at it. I think from what youve said that your very close. I wish I could be more helpful but from here it looks like that. It took me almost a month to get a decent edge off my first gnat. (Actually that's the weird thing; I got a working edge from mine first time out. It's better now, but not VASTLY better.) If I gave up on the 29th day, then I would have nothing.

Oh, I'm sure of that. The good thing about all of this is that it goes to experience, which is invaluable. I'm not giving up altogether, just looking for different ways to get further from here.

Thanks Buca, and everyone for the responses. I have been and will continue to follow along, picking up what I can. :thumbsup:
 
In my experience using lapping film then tomo do not give the same results as asano nagura then tomo... I get smoother results when using full nagura progression... They both end up sharp very sharp but not as smooth

My experience with this was converting 30 of my razors from lapping film to jnat edges...

I thought refinish with tomo will give me the same thing... Well it didn't and had to go back to bevel set with all of them
 
In my experience using lapping film then tomo do not give the same results as asano nagura then tomo... I get smoother results when using full nagura progression... They both end up sharp very sharp but not as smooth

My experience with this was converting 30 of my razors from lapping film to jnat edges...

I thought refinish with tomo will give me the same thing... Well it didn't and had to go back to bevel set with all of them


No wonder you racked up a lot of honing experience. :lol:
Did you bevel set on botan, or use a separate hone?
 
I see. Are there places that sell these intermediate nagura as a set? A trustworthy place? Or do they have to be picked out individually?
Alex and I have been in communication, he's going to send me some tomonagura to try out, and if I find a piece or two that does better than what I have I'll buy them from him. I'm not sure whether he carries other nagura, or if they can be a try-before-you-buy type item. I'll have to ask him about them.

Again, when the slurry from this tomo is fresh, it cuts so rapidly that I can't help but think it would erase any type of finish already in place from intermediate nagura. If it can wipe out 1k scratches in just a relatively few passes, I don't see why anything finer than 1k would also not be obliterated.
Maybe I'm just looking at it all wrong. :confused:
 
I see. Are there places that sell these intermediate nagura as a set? A trustworthy place? Or do they have to be picked out individually?
Alex and I have been in communication, he's going to send me some tomonagura to try out, and if I find a piece or two that does better than what I have I'll buy them from him. I'm not sure whether he carries other nagura, or if they can be a try-before-you-buy type item. I'll have to ask him about them.

Again, when the slurry from this tomo is fresh, it cuts so rapidly that I can't help but think it would erase any type of finish already in place from intermediate nagura. If it can wipe out 1k scratches in just a relatively few passes, I don't see why anything finer than 1k would also not be obliterated.
Maybe I'm just looking at it all wrong. :confused:

I dunno actually... But remember it's not about the scratches on the bevel it's about the very edge... It says nothing about the smoothness The scratches just give an indication of how much metal is removed by the stone... Although it's a pretty good indicator

Think about crox... Makes the bevel mirror like polish but can leave a harsh edge
 
I dunno actually... But remember it's not about the scratches on the bevel it's about the very edge... It says nothing about the smoothness The scratches just give an indication of how much metal is removed by the stone... Although it's a pretty good indicator

Think about crox... Makes the bevel mirror like polish but can leave a harsh edge


It would be hard to check that out with my little loupe, but I think I grasp your point.
 
So much to respond to here - but I'd rather try to stay on topic;


Honing 101 - no matter what, most importantly; have fun.
Hone, strop, shave, enjoy.
 
Kenny, what Gamma said is true and you sound like you are doing just that. I can be frustrating finding that last bit of perfection, whatever you call it, and I can guarantee you that 99% of the guys that have found it have spent a lot of money trying different stones and strops. I bet the edge Doc made for you came from a stone that was not his first or if it was he tried many more before he returned to it. (We could all retire on what Gamma has spent on rock.) And, you haven't even mentioned strops. I have an embarrassingly large collection and they give many different results. I would be willing to bet Doc stropped the razor he sent back to you and that it was on a strop he knew produced a great edge.

The bottom line is experience, however you get it, and most of the time it isn't all that cheap. For example, when I got into the nagura thing, I hit Gamma up for a set. Cheap--nope. Quality--yep. Later, Denny
 
Kenny, what Gamma said is true and you sound like you are doing just that. I can be frustrating finding that last bit of perfection, whatever you call it, and I can guarantee you that 99% of the guys that have found it have spent a lot of money trying different stones and strops. I bet the edge Doc made for you came from a stone that was not his first or if it was he tried many more before he returned to it. (We could all retire on what Gamma has spent on rock.) And, you haven't even mentioned strops. I have an embarrassingly large collection and they give many different results. I would be willing to bet Doc stropped the razor he sent back to you and that it was on a strop he knew produced a great edge.

The bottom line is experience, however you get it, and most of the time it isn't all that cheap. For example, when I got into the nagura thing, I hit Gamma up for a set. Cheap--nope. Quality--yep. Later, Denny

Thanks, Denny I appreciate the encouragement.
Usually after the stone I'll give a quick palm strop, then 15 or 20 careful passes on clean leather, then hair test the edge.
I'm considering a nagura set, but I'm not quite sure where to look just yet, and there's no way to know if they are something I really need. I also have some tomo coming in for trial use, hopefully I will find one or two that work differently than the one I have. I also have a different finisher on the way.
More learning to do. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks, Denny I appreciate the encouragement.
Usually after the stone I'll give a quick palm strop, then 15 or 20 careful passes on clean leather, then hair test the edge.
I'm considering a nagura set, but I'm not quite sure where to look just yet, and there's no way to know if they are something I really need. I also have some tomo coming in for trial use, hopefully I will find one or two that work differently than the one I have. I also have a different finisher on the way.
More learning to do. :thumbsup:

Don't forget to post back if you find THE tomo that improves over your edges from the dmt! I'm looking at doing the same thing :)
 
Top Bottom