I did a search for a primer in fragrances and came up empty. I was hoping some of our esteemed members could chime in on where to start a journey into the world of men's fragrances. I am looking for suggestions, both classic and modern, also knowledge on how to wear them and pick out some of different "notes." What are some things to look for when selecting a fragrance? What are the differences between EDP, EDT, etc.? Why would you choose one over the other? Looking back, would you recommend a specific progression of fragrances? I know I've asked a lot of questions. Thank for taking the time to answer them. I'm looking forward to learning from you all.
help with Fragrance 101
- Thread starter parastang
- Start date
EDT is a diluted version of EDP. Typically the EDP has better silage, a purer scent, and lasts far longer. Oftentimes the EDT often differs in scent from the EDP due to the addition of the water, kind of like scotch when you add water.
As far as wearing them, it depends on who you want to smell it. Typically, if it is just for your or your SO, you would put it on the chest/neck and then inner elbows or wrists. If it is for others to smell you can change the chest/neck to the back of your neck. You won't smell it as much (olfactory fatigue) and you should get decent silage. I typically don't squirt more than 1 per area, but if it is a weaker scent sometimes 2 is appropriate. AXE all over body misting will probably cause people to loathe your presence due to too much scent.
As far as picking out notes, its a crapshoot and highly subjective. I typically read the notes and if they are similar to notes I've smelled before I have an idea of the scent. However, I highly recommend going to a store and smelling the fragrance there/testing it on your skin. Its very important to do both before dropping tons of money on them. The only time I'd suggest otherwise is if you are getting decant samplers (.5-1 mL) to find scents. Surrendertochance.com has a bunch of samplers for fairly cheap if you'd like to try stuff like: Classic, Masculine, Fougere, Leather, Vetyver, Citrus, Date Nite, etc.
As far as classics for men, I'll let others speak to those since I typically buy more modern scents.
As far as modern goes, you've got somewhat cheaper options like Terre d'Hermes EDP around $110 online (EDT is ~$90 and not worth it compared to the EDP imho) all the way to Creed Aventus ($275 online), Green Irish Tweed (~$150 online), Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (~$300 for a 3.4 oz bottle), and the list goes on and on.
As far as wearing them, it depends on who you want to smell it. Typically, if it is just for your or your SO, you would put it on the chest/neck and then inner elbows or wrists. If it is for others to smell you can change the chest/neck to the back of your neck. You won't smell it as much (olfactory fatigue) and you should get decent silage. I typically don't squirt more than 1 per area, but if it is a weaker scent sometimes 2 is appropriate. AXE all over body misting will probably cause people to loathe your presence due to too much scent.
As far as picking out notes, its a crapshoot and highly subjective. I typically read the notes and if they are similar to notes I've smelled before I have an idea of the scent. However, I highly recommend going to a store and smelling the fragrance there/testing it on your skin. Its very important to do both before dropping tons of money on them. The only time I'd suggest otherwise is if you are getting decant samplers (.5-1 mL) to find scents. Surrendertochance.com has a bunch of samplers for fairly cheap if you'd like to try stuff like: Classic, Masculine, Fougere, Leather, Vetyver, Citrus, Date Nite, etc.
As far as classics for men, I'll let others speak to those since I typically buy more modern scents.
As far as modern goes, you've got somewhat cheaper options like Terre d'Hermes EDP around $110 online (EDT is ~$90 and not worth it compared to the EDP imho) all the way to Creed Aventus ($275 online), Green Irish Tweed (~$150 online), Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (~$300 for a 3.4 oz bottle), and the list goes on and on.
There is a ton of frag resources at these two sites (with forums and research tools) that will help you get smart:
basenotes.net
fragrantica.com
basenotes.net
fragrantica.com
Personally, when I want a fragrance (usually suggested by all the enablers in here), I tend to go to the store and try it out. I rarely, very rarely walk out with the frag on the spot. I will spray or dab some on and leave the store and continue shopping or go on with my day and if I still like it after a few hours, I'll go back and get the bottle. i've been bitten too many times with that "great" scent that just dries down terribly. I'm sure a lot of the salespeople think I just came in for a freebie spritz. I love the smile on their faces when I come back for the bottle after my decision was made to buy...it's priceless!
Reading descriptions at fragrantica or basenotes is a good start but don't take it as the final word. Go to Macys, Ulta, Nordstrom's (my favorite) and start sniffing - spray on your elbow or wrist and then walk away. The scent will change as it dries down, aerates, and mixes with your body chemistry...then make your assessment. I have seen too many people get turned off in the first 3 seconds and wipe it off....and vice versa, some love the initial scent only to be disappointed by the last note. Most fragrances will have a very short-lived initial scent, a middle note, and a lasting final note.
I would start with Luca Turin's encyclopedia of scents, whatever it is called. Read anything Chandler Burr has written on scents. Not that I always agree with either of them.
The is a huge wealth of information out there. Some of it not so good. Scents are not easy. It is not easy to pick out scent notes, and there are big subjective differences among how folks smell the same things. But with some practice you can train your nose. Go to health food stores and smell their testers of essential oils to get an idea of what various scents are. Start reading and keep it up.
Also, do not necessarily trust what the label says the scent is. Labo I am thinking of you!
Join with someone else and have them place five or more varied major scents in numbered sprayers and try to sort out what they are blind. Try to name the major scent elements you smell and identify the scents themselves. Blind smelling of scents will teach you a lot. But it is very difficult and I am not sure the skills stay without practice. Gives you an idea of what you like and why, though.
Anything The Chandos writes on this forum, especially in the scent of the day thread, is well-informed. Others as well, too numerous to mention. There is a huge store of knowledge in the text on this forum and in the folks that frequent it. Never hurts to run some word searches.
<EDT is a diluted version of EDP. Typically the EDP has better silage, a purer scent, and lasts far longer. Oftentimes the EDT often differs in scent from the EDP due to the addition of the water, kind of like scotch when you add water.>
No disrespect, but in my experience, EDPs often differ significantly from EDTs of the name, and I do not think it is simply from the addition of water. They are very different fragrances, I assume intentionally, and I often prefer the EDT versions, including, and this is just me, TdH, an excellent scent to me.. An EDP of a particular scent is going to be "stronger" than the EDT version, and there are various charts as to what concentration of fragrance oils makes an EDP versus an EDT, but to me various scents vary across supposed EDP/EDT concentrations.
Many excellent scents come only in EDP or EDT concentrations.
There is a massive variety of scents. I would suggest that you try a bunch and pick what you like. Your tastes are bound to evolve in the process, methinks.
Many folks come to this forum seeking a single, signature scent. More often than not, if seems to me, they end up, perhaps like me addicted to the variety. It is easy, in my experience, to become addicted to scents! So may I should suggest turning and walking away!
The is a huge wealth of information out there. Some of it not so good. Scents are not easy. It is not easy to pick out scent notes, and there are big subjective differences among how folks smell the same things. But with some practice you can train your nose. Go to health food stores and smell their testers of essential oils to get an idea of what various scents are. Start reading and keep it up.
Also, do not necessarily trust what the label says the scent is. Labo I am thinking of you!
Join with someone else and have them place five or more varied major scents in numbered sprayers and try to sort out what they are blind. Try to name the major scent elements you smell and identify the scents themselves. Blind smelling of scents will teach you a lot. But it is very difficult and I am not sure the skills stay without practice. Gives you an idea of what you like and why, though.
Anything The Chandos writes on this forum, especially in the scent of the day thread, is well-informed. Others as well, too numerous to mention. There is a huge store of knowledge in the text on this forum and in the folks that frequent it. Never hurts to run some word searches.
<EDT is a diluted version of EDP. Typically the EDP has better silage, a purer scent, and lasts far longer. Oftentimes the EDT often differs in scent from the EDP due to the addition of the water, kind of like scotch when you add water.>
No disrespect, but in my experience, EDPs often differ significantly from EDTs of the name, and I do not think it is simply from the addition of water. They are very different fragrances, I assume intentionally, and I often prefer the EDT versions, including, and this is just me, TdH, an excellent scent to me.. An EDP of a particular scent is going to be "stronger" than the EDT version, and there are various charts as to what concentration of fragrance oils makes an EDP versus an EDT, but to me various scents vary across supposed EDP/EDT concentrations.
Many excellent scents come only in EDP or EDT concentrations.
There is a massive variety of scents. I would suggest that you try a bunch and pick what you like. Your tastes are bound to evolve in the process, methinks.
Many folks come to this forum seeking a single, signature scent. More often than not, if seems to me, they end up, perhaps like me addicted to the variety. It is easy, in my experience, to become addicted to scents! So may I should suggest turning and walking away!
I meant to say that the advice given above in this thread seems pretty good.
<Looking back, would you recommend a specific progression of fragrances?>
That is a fair question and I do not think I have an answer for you. I think I had a pretty good handle on 70s and 80s power frags from early on, and certain designer frags, such as Issy and Grey Flannel. When I seriously got into scents five years or so ago, I think I started with British scents (Pen's, C&S, Floris, T&H, GFT) and other traditional scents like AdP, Knize Ten (this one easier to get now than then), Bulgari Black, various Creeds, because for various reasons, samples/decants were relatively available to me, and somehow the British scents seemed more accessible to me. I also tried a fair number of truly inexpensive scents, such as the Pinaud/Clubman line, M&L Florida Water, and Hoyts, as well as a bunch of cheap scents found in ethnic stores, such as Hispanic stores, which I wish I had not bothered with. A big number of bay rums, too.
From there I think I progressed to what I think of as sort of midrange traditional houses like Dior, I suppose, but more like Caron, PdH, MPG. I suppose all along was seeking out what Luca Turin rated highly.
I was always into sandalwood scents, but I think most of the great sandalwood is gone. Somewhere along the line I really got into vetivers and sampled virtually every one I could get my hands on. Vetiver seemed somehow to lead to things like Montale and then high-end Italian scents.
Then small maker things like Slumberhouse. ELDO, I suppose. I am not a Tom Ford fan, but lots of folks are.
Imaginary Authors was not around when got seriously into scents, but I would suggest its line as an early stop. The line illustrates in a very modern manner, lots of styles of scents, and the quality is very high.
If I had it to do over, I would buy even fewer full bottles, even of less expensive frags. I would spend even less time with standard department store scents, with a few exceptions.
I feel like I am rambling and that this information is of little use! I really do not have much in the way of suggestions, other than to try a bunch of stuff, and to read up on things as you go along.
<Looking back, would you recommend a specific progression of fragrances?>
That is a fair question and I do not think I have an answer for you. I think I had a pretty good handle on 70s and 80s power frags from early on, and certain designer frags, such as Issy and Grey Flannel. When I seriously got into scents five years or so ago, I think I started with British scents (Pen's, C&S, Floris, T&H, GFT) and other traditional scents like AdP, Knize Ten (this one easier to get now than then), Bulgari Black, various Creeds, because for various reasons, samples/decants were relatively available to me, and somehow the British scents seemed more accessible to me. I also tried a fair number of truly inexpensive scents, such as the Pinaud/Clubman line, M&L Florida Water, and Hoyts, as well as a bunch of cheap scents found in ethnic stores, such as Hispanic stores, which I wish I had not bothered with. A big number of bay rums, too.
From there I think I progressed to what I think of as sort of midrange traditional houses like Dior, I suppose, but more like Caron, PdH, MPG. I suppose all along was seeking out what Luca Turin rated highly.
I was always into sandalwood scents, but I think most of the great sandalwood is gone. Somewhere along the line I really got into vetivers and sampled virtually every one I could get my hands on. Vetiver seemed somehow to lead to things like Montale and then high-end Italian scents.
Then small maker things like Slumberhouse. ELDO, I suppose. I am not a Tom Ford fan, but lots of folks are.
Imaginary Authors was not around when got seriously into scents, but I would suggest its line as an early stop. The line illustrates in a very modern manner, lots of styles of scents, and the quality is very high.
If I had it to do over, I would buy even fewer full bottles, even of less expensive frags. I would spend even less time with standard department store scents, with a few exceptions.
I feel like I am rambling and that this information is of little use! I really do not have much in the way of suggestions, other than to try a bunch of stuff, and to read up on things as you go along.
Also read the fragrance materials in and linked the B&B Shavewiki, of course.
I found the the H&K Masculine Fragrance Genealogy helped greatly in understanding fragrances. It doesn't have all the frags and it stops in 2000 but there is lots to learn about how they relate.
http://www.leffingwell.com/h&rfragrance/poster_genealogie_masculin.pdf
http://www.leffingwell.com/h&rfragrance/poster_genealogie_masculin.pdf
A very useful link. I have never managed to become very conversant in classifying scents into fourgere, oriental, and chypre, but I think going over this kind of chart which does in really helpful in expanding one's knowledge.
Rob, all the advice above is excellent! The only thing I can add is that what I have learned since pursuing fragrances and scents of shaving software - everyone's sense of smell is different! In the except for some very big generalities, this experience is going to be entirely and exclusively yours.
+1 on this. Using basenotes, fragrantica and the genealogy chart can help you find similar scents but it must start with you finding one or a few scents that both you and those important to you enjoy. Once you do that, those resources can point you to similar or contrasting scents.
Ok dude, I started wearing fragrance in elementary school (yeah I was that kid) and I have worked in and around fragrances for 18 years. There is a lot of good advice on here, but it may be a little sophisticated for some beginners. To answer your questions:
1> What to look for?
Most importantly an aroma that pleases you and/or your SO.
A line that leans toward natural essences as they blend with your chemistry for a more personalized version of the frag.
You also want to go to a store where you can try on the frag, and possibly have them send you home with samples.
2> EDP vs EDT
EDP= Eau de Parfum A higher concentration of parfum oils to alcohol. More pure scent and longer lasting.
EDT= Eau de Toilette A watered down version of the above. Most men's frag will be EDT. Also all EDT's are not created equal some higher end brands (Cartier, Pehaligon's, Hermes etc) will have EDT with near EDP concentration.
Parfum is a pure oil concentration (very rare in men's frag), and EDC (Cologne) is your weakest concentration.
3> Depends on you. If you're the type to spray a lot on you may want a lighter concentration and a lighter aroma, but really like paintflinger said "it's like a scotch" in that the concentration can alter the aroma, so go with what you like.
As for progression, I just buy what my lady likes, what smells good on me, and (when I was single) what I get the most compliments on. I can't overstate this MAKE SURE YOU WEAR THE FRAG BEFORE YOU BUY!!! Most Nordstrom, Sephora, Nieman's and Sac's will make samples for you.
As for recommendations, here are a few to try and see how they work for you.
Under $50
St. James Clarysage and Cedar $36 -EDT (Classic, clean and masculine)
Under $100
Chanel Platinum (oldie but goodie)
Pasha de Cartier (Traditional, musky, woodsy, Manly)
T&F 1805 (clean, masculine, sophisticated)
Bvgari Pour Homme (Light, crisp, subtle)T
here are so many more but these are a few I like.
Under $150
Penhaligon's Opus 1870 (Dry, woodsy, warm) - Really anything Penhaligon's is great.
Aqua di Parma (fresh n clean)
Again there are a ton but just a couple I dig. Also Penhaligon's is more exclusive line so check at Sac's or AOS locations for this one. I like it a lot better than Terre' de Hermes for the price, it's more subtle and refined, and less people wear it as it's harder to find.
If you want to spend more than that then Creed and Tom Ford are great lines. Go in and try a few on ( I like Creed better personally a few I like are Imperial, Green Irish Tweed, and Aventus but it's hard to go wrong), and try not to smell more than 8-10in a visit as your nose will give up on you.... no matter how many coffee beans you smell.
Fragrance is a personal thing so I won't tell you how to progress; just go with what you like!! Hope this helps and have fun!!
P.S. When you go shopping take your SO or someone (of the sex you're trying to attract) with you for a 2nd opinion. Good Luck!!
Almost forgot, how to wear:
After shower you spray on skin. Best to hit pulse points (anywhere you can feel your heartbeat) as heat will activate your fragrance. I hit Neck/chest, arms/wrists, under arms, and back of my neck. If you spray it on after your shower it should have settled by the time you walk out the door. That's my recommendation.
After shower you spray on skin. Best to hit pulse points (anywhere you can feel your heartbeat) as heat will activate your fragrance. I hit Neck/chest, arms/wrists, under arms, and back of my neck. If you spray it on after your shower it should have settled by the time you walk out the door. That's my recommendation.
Thanks for all the good comments, DannyShow. That sounds like a pretty generous application to me.
To me amount to use is highly dependent on the scent. More than a couple of 1/2 sprays of something like Montale Black Aoud seems to me potentially room clearly. On the other hand, it does not seem possible to use enough Hoyt's to get any appreciable tenacity.
Also, as far as I know, parfums (or extraits) are not pure oils, but are maybe 30% oil. Eau de parfum is below that.
Again, scents with the same name in different stated concentrations, may smell very differently. For instance, I personally prefer the EDT version of Jaipur, and was very bummed out when I bought a large bottle of the EDP version to find out it was not simply a stronger, more intense version of the EDP.
When I started getting into shaving creams and soaps, I found those wonderful scents did not linger. Seeking to change that, I started buying After Shave samples, and then went on the edcs/edts. Since I was a newbie, it was overwhelming to swing by the Men's Accouterments section of Macys or Nordstroms to have a gentleman in his bespoke suit start spraying samples for left and right and I had no idea what he was saying.
I did learn a few things - I knew more about shaving creams than he did. Coffee beans does not clear my fatigued nose (and don't to many people) but I didn't know it then. That most of what he was pushing was what he preferred. That unless I learned more about the basics, I was only basically grouping everything into "cool" or "fresh" or "peppery". That was about the best I could differentiate then. And this seemed right as well: The gent's comment "You may love the smell of cloves or booze or pine, but do you want to smell like that to other people all day"? Lastly, stores are hit and miss on samples - this guy was very stingy on samples. After spending about an hour, I ended up with a SpiceBomb sample which I took to give to someone else.
On to buying samples. Disappointed in many of them, so I then sought to identify the type of the ones I liked and then looked for other variations along the same lines - leather, gourmand, fresh, soapy, powdery, citrus - whatever terminology works for you to group them into. Then the basenote reviews and badgerandblade thoughts made more sense.
Although I didn't do it, I've heard that a few scents you can identify by smelling the essential oils at a Fresh Food store. Like vetiver or patchouli.
I also found this helped to group things together initially:
http://www.fumefinder.com/m/#/m/fragrancepicks/men/
I did learn a few things - I knew more about shaving creams than he did. Coffee beans does not clear my fatigued nose (and don't to many people) but I didn't know it then. That most of what he was pushing was what he preferred. That unless I learned more about the basics, I was only basically grouping everything into "cool" or "fresh" or "peppery". That was about the best I could differentiate then. And this seemed right as well: The gent's comment "You may love the smell of cloves or booze or pine, but do you want to smell like that to other people all day"? Lastly, stores are hit and miss on samples - this guy was very stingy on samples. After spending about an hour, I ended up with a SpiceBomb sample which I took to give to someone else.
On to buying samples. Disappointed in many of them, so I then sought to identify the type of the ones I liked and then looked for other variations along the same lines - leather, gourmand, fresh, soapy, powdery, citrus - whatever terminology works for you to group them into. Then the basenote reviews and badgerandblade thoughts made more sense.
Although I didn't do it, I've heard that a few scents you can identify by smelling the essential oils at a Fresh Food store. Like vetiver or patchouli.
I also found this helped to group things together initially:
http://www.fumefinder.com/m/#/m/fragrancepicks/men/
- Thread starter
- #17
Gentlemen, thank you for all of your input and suggestions. I was at the beach the last couple of days so it was an internet free zone, otherwise I would have responded sooner. You all have given me a lot to chew on. One thing that sucks for me right now is I'm sick and my sense of smell is MIA right now.
Similar threads
