Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    159

    Default Lapping with wet/dry.......

    Last year when I started shaving with straights and honing my own razors I lapped stones with wet/dry sandpaper on glass. It certainly worked. I found though, that for me it was really a one use per session thing as the paper backing after it would dry out would exhibit the same behavior as any paper, it wouldn't dry flat (a huge no no for reusing then to lap a flat surface).

    Do others find the same?

    I never tried to keep the wet dry paper wet and assume it would either end up degrading or would also result in a less than flat surface. I found wet/dry to be spendy and even cutting it in half to save paper, I found that it wouldn't be cost effective over the long term for lapping. It really wouldn't take too many packs of wet dry to start getting up to the cost of a DMT D8C that would last for years.

    Chris L

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    311

    Default

    I wouldnt even try lapping with paper, I newer have any surface for the paper that is flat enough.. D8C is very helpful, not so on the Shapton though (well, if you have the time, I have already used one full day on an 16K and are not quite there yet, well)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    159
    Thread Starter

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by asbjorn View Post
    I wouldnt even try lapping with paper, I newer have any surface for the paper that is flat enough.. D8C is very helpful, not so on the Shapton though (well, if you have the time, I have already used one full day on an 16K and are not quite there yet, well)

    Are you saying that the D8C is not lapping your Shapton 16K? I assume you mean the 16K ceramic on glass stone? I lapped my 16K ceramic on glass with the new Shapton Glass on Diamond Lapping Plate that I'm ga-ga over and that lapped it flat pretty quickly; but it did still take awhile. I also lapped a Tam O' Shanter on the GDLP and that thing was very flat out of the vintage box. Pencil marks literally gone in 5 back and forth strokes or less. I didn't believe it at first.

    Chris L

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    311

    Default

    Oh, It is lapping.. but so darn slowly... it looks like my shapton is a tiny bit lower at two corners, right oposit to each other, it is not very much left, and I doubt I will run my razor there, but since you are lapping, you lap..
    But I find the D8C very slow, and because it is continous grinding surface, the ceramic can go nowere any other than clogging the hone, so I have to was it very often.
    How long time did you use on the GDLP for an shapton stone?, approx?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    159
    Thread Starter

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by asbjorn View Post
    Oh, It is lapping.. but so darn slowly... it looks like my shapton is a tiny bit lower at two corners, right oposit to each other, it is not very much left, and I doubt I will run my razor there, but since you are lapping, you lap..
    But I find the D8C very slow, and because it is continous grinding surface, the ceramic can go nowere any other than clogging the hone, so I have to was it very often.
    How long time did you use on the GDLP for an shapton stone?, approx?
    I never even thought of the fact that the D8C is continuous and your swarf just hangs around; that makes sense that it would be more difficult, that and the stiction you're probably experiencing as well. I had a D8C and sold it after getting the GDLP. Since the GDLP has the recessed areas, the swarf just falls away and lapping is not impeded. I would say it took me 15-20 minutes at the most to lap my 16K using the GDLP. Mine was high in the middle and low on the edges so even with that 15-20 minutes I had to remove a fair amount of the surface (even though we're still talking about in reality only having to remove an EXTREMELY thin layer. I want to say for the record, I think the D8C is a super and an inexpensive lapping plate.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    311

    Default

    Don't get me wrong folks, the D8C is an excelent lapping plate, I have lapped Norton, Belgian blue and coticule, chinese, and other stones, no problem at all, just the shapton that is a bit hard to work with.

    I would guess that something like this:
    http://theconsumerlink.com/DiamondMa...l/TCL+W8FCNB/0
    Maybe is a bit better lapping tool due to the open areas that would allow the swarf to go away a little better, maybe..

    The D8C and the Shaptong 16K (GlassStone) gives GREAT suction, I think I could lift a car with that suction.. :D

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Lapping a new 12k?
    By TheEditor in forum Hones/Honing
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 04-14-2011, 06:47 AM
  2. DMT 600 for lapping?
    By Munxcub in forum Hones/Honing
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 01-02-2011, 03:54 PM
  3. DMT 325 lapping stone or Norton lapping stone?
    By raccoonandbrush in forum Hones/Honing
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 11-18-2010, 10:38 AM
  4. Lapping? What is it?
    By tleiland in forum Hones/Honing
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 02-01-2010, 09:04 AM
  5. Diamond lapping film vs Alum oxide lapping film
    By Seraphim in forum Hones/Honing
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-19-2009, 11:02 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •