Tutorial: Repair cracked handles/shafts in Gillette Old Types etc.

I did five small zip ties from end to end. Worked great.

Pinan, I'm just pointing out that if you don't have gaps, you can use superglue. My tubing was a dead fit, so epoxy was going to just scrape off and make a mess while trying to put it down the hole. I just dropped the tube in (after gluing knob end cap on) and wicked the superglue between the tube and the wall.

Of course, the problem with superglue is you have to work fast and neat. But you can control Z a bad assembly by putting it into a jar of acetone.

Great thread. Some very nice descriptions and tips here. Thanks for sharing Pinan and everyone else.

Here's a pic of my beauty. You can just see the crack in the knurling. * Found a before pic

eaterofdog said:

Here's a pic of my beauty. You can just see the crack in the knurling. This was a 1mm+ gap all the way across originally.

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That turned out nicely!

I wouldn't have even tried it without your thread, so thank you!

What would you insert into the handle in order to increase weight?
I just stumbled across a cracked handle - full crack and I felt like adding some weight to it before repair it. Any heavier tube than aluminum?

tonich said:

What would you insert into the handle in order to increase weight?
I just stumbled across a cracked handle - full crack and I felt like adding some weight to it before repair it. Any heavier tube than aluminum?

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Copper. If you want heavier, try to get hold of a lead bar.

Ooops, lead is too much.
I would like something heavier than pen and to bring the total weight of the razor to about 60 gr. Do you think its a good idea?

tonich said:

What would you insert into the handle in order to increase weight?

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On the 1st page I address this:

"Note: If you want to add weight to the handle, a cut 5/16" bolt works very well."

I would recommend stainless if you do. I did this once.

Thanks!
I missed that one.

This thread gets an excellent rating.

I would be very leery of sticking anything but stainless or brass into the handle. You have a good chance of galvanic corrosion in a soapy water environment.

How hard is it to get the ball end off if it's not loose? I have a cracked New I was thinking of repairing, but the end cap is still holding strong.

smoothie72 said:

How hard is it to get the ball end off if it's not loose? I have a cracked New I was thinking of repairing, but the end cap is still holding strong.

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These parts are pressure fitted, so there's no adhesive. You may be able to twist it off with some clamping and some pliers, but be careful of damaging the parts. A wooden/rubber vise would help, and pad the pliers well with rubber, etc.

eaterofdog said:

I would be very leery of sticking anything but stainless or brass into the handle. You have a good chance of galvanic corrosion in a soapy water environment.

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This was addressed earlier in the thread. With the aluminum being coated in marine epoxy, there should be little if any metal to metal contact. You could also unscrew the handle after each shave, to dry out, if you're worried about it. I do that anyway to clean the razor after each use.

Pinan said:

there should be little if any metal to metal contact

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A little bit of contact is kind of like a little bit pregnant. It's a yes or no thing, not a gradient.

eaterofdog said:

A little bit of contact is kind of like a little bit pregnant..

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*chuckle*

I've yet to see any problems, but then as I wrote, I clean and dry mine each time used. A good point though.

Brass is just as easy to use, and to find at a hobby shop.

Your method worked for me! I used a solid 5/16" rod on the inside so it added a bit of weight. The repaired cracks aren't invisible by any means but the handle is now solid, functional and holding together!

great job! nicely done with the pics!

How about repairing a cracked 3-piece handle?