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pasted cotton causing "overhoning"

Is it possible? I've been using cotton belting with 1, .5, .25 diamonds and .1 iron oxide after honing (coti or welsh purple or swaty 2 line or carborundum 103) 20- 40 laps each belt. by the time I get done with the .1 I can see "microchips" on the edge. (I've only got a 12x loupe right now so they may be there earlier but can't see) Pretty sure I've got all the scratches from each level out because I hone in a different direction for each stone/grit and check the pattern.
Next time gonna try less laps, and also stop at .5 or.25.








maybe I just need to get a jnat, it can't be me, it must be the hones....:001_unsur
 

rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
20-40 on a pasted strop sounds like quite a bit. I generally only go 5-10 when I use paste (either TI white or Dovo red+black).
 

rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
My 16K Shapton is 0.92u, so you might want to just take your edge to the 1u until you are able to continually establish getting good edges from it Then add the 0.5u into the mix. Bring along the 0.25u ond 0.1u later on if you feel you need further refinement.
 
Is it possible? I've been using cotton belting with 1, .5, .25 diamonds and .1 iron oxide after honing (coti or welsh purple or swaty 2 line or carborundum 103) 20- 40 laps each belt. by the time I get done with the .1 I can see "microchips" on the edge. (I've only got a 12x loupe right now so they may be there earlier but can't see) Pretty sure I've got all the scratches from each level out because I hone in a different direction for each stone/grit and check the pattern.
Next time gonna try less laps, and also stop at .5 or.25.

Do you still see the "microchips" after stropping on clean leather?
Did you try shaving with it?
 
I would skip the 1 and .5, just use the .25 and .1

prolly gonna work my way thru all of the above

I think I'm gonna use 2 GDs side by side and do one of them one way and the other a different way, and see which is better for all the permutations we've mentioned. that way I might get some idea of where things are going bad.
 
Traditionally - like in old barber's manuals and such, overhoning was defined/described as developing a wire or foil edge by honing too long on a stone/hone/etc. Some barber hones reference this in their directions.
 
Seems to me that too much abrasive stropping would just round off the edge. Is that the opposite of a wire edge?

I could imagine that damage created at the 1k level would be exposed as microchips with abrasive stropping if the damage was not removed during the intermediate grits. But is that not underhoning?
 

Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
Let me tell ya, I stropped a partially sharpened-on-heavy-slurry-off-a-coticule Japanese chisel on hard felt sprayed with 1 micron diamond...it polished off all the coticule haze save for a few deep scratches. I am now a firm believer that over stropping on larger micron abrasives do much more than "polish". They remove material, so too many laps could possibly contribute to overcooked edges. As far as microchips, I also believe that micro chips come from deep scratches that arent removed when going through the progression. When you strop you are removing metal that would otherwise hide the chips. YMMV greatly tho.

It will take forever to take out those chips and microbevel...sob.
 
I think I figured out my issue. The cotton belting was brand new, I didn't wash, roll with a bottle, sand, or do anything to it to "break it in." After a while I noticed "spots" where the "peaks" of the weave were gathering metal. There was none in the "valleys." It looked like a sparse polka dot pattern. I took a brass brush to the belting and "knocked off the high points" so that now the bevel is making contact with more area at a time, "plateaus" rather than "peaks" if you will. Like a boat riding over a swell rather than a harsh chop, less "slamming into the tops of the waves." No more "microchipping" now.
 
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