Monster Energy Drink scales.

Ok. Now that I have your attention and the sound of the words "What the..." have quit reverberating through your house, I have an idea that I'd like to get your opinions/help/tips/ideas on.

I picked up a Wade and Butcher straight the other day. The blade seems to be in pretty decent shape. It's perfectly sharp (if I want to use it to spread butter on my toast) but relatively rust free. The scales really weren't THAT bad, but I wanted to make it look a little different than what I usually see.

Enter Said Monster Energy Drink can.



I actually like the taste as much as I like the Irish design on the can. Here's what I want to do: I want to sketch out a set of clear acrylic scales and cut out a matching set of pieces from the black and green "design" part of the can, somehow glue/epoxy/magic the can pieces to the inside faces of the clear acrylic so the design can be seen, then sand the aluminum and acrylic smooth.

What say you? I've seen aluminum sandwiched between scales before, but I'm not sure how I'd keep bubbles out from between the can and acrylic. What would you recommend to attract the two pieces?

Thanks in advance,

Zach

Neat! Different, but neat! I bet Seraphim or Heespharm would be able to help you with this. I can say that if you want to affix a strip of can aluminum to anything, it needs to be thoroughly cleaned and flattened. If you access to a hydraulic press, that might be your best bet for flattening it out.

The air bubbles could be eliminated using a laminate roller. I do wonder whether the coating on the can would stick to the adhesive. You could take a picture of the can and have it printed on something like clear mylar.

I plan on rough cutting the acrylic and can then rolling a little past flat the opposite way to hopefully counter the present curve. I do have access to a hydraulic press. I hadn't thought of that. I would think that acetone would clean any oils off of the can well enough to let the epoxy/??? adhere it to the acrylic.

Use thick Cyanoi Acetate (i.e.-superglue) and clamp the acrylic to the aluminum.

Air bubbles are something you'll just have to cahse down. There is no easy way to eliminate them when laminating.

I wondered about CA... We have a good model shop in town that has a ton of different kinds. Is there a certain kind to look for or that you recommend? Type as opposed to brand anyway?

You want thick viscosity for laminating.

Mmmm... Acetone would certainly take the oils off, but it would probably eat the design off of the aluminum. Before trying to affix it, do everything you can to smooth it out. A piece of plexiglass over it, with weight plates (or something similarly heavy and stackable) on top should do it. Seraphim is bang-on with the high-viscosity superglue. Higher initial grab strength may help to keep the aluminum from curling up. Maybe run a roller over it after to squeeze out air bubbles? Post pics when you're done; I've GOT to see this. If you are thinking of using the pieces I think you are, this could come out looking really neat!

CA used in lamination does not bond instantly.

You have to keep weights on it for a few hours, or clamp it for a few hours until it cures.

Seraphim said:

Use thick Cyanoi Acetate (i.e.-superglue) and clamp the acrylic to the aluminum.

Air bubbles are something you'll just have to cahse down. There is no easy way to eliminate them when laminating.

Click to expand...

Back when I used to do some lapidary stuff and made cemented doublets and triplets, we'd put the pieces in a relatively airtight container with a simple valve and use a brake bleeder pump to pull a vacuum. That got rid of the air bubbles.

Cheers, Steve

Have you thought about scanning then photoshop and print on glossy paper than laminate the paper?

I hadn't thought of scanning them. I wanted the aluminum to show around the edge and though I'd be killing two birds with one can.

I haven't tried this yet but my plan for something similar is to print on paper, glue to sheet aluminum, finalize the shape then pour bar-top epoxy over it.

Many printer inks run and turn into a sloppy mess when using CA. Also the color changes when wet. But it's worth a try.

I think bubbles on the backside (aluminum to acrylic backer should not be a problem. It will be a very thin layer and hidden from view. I would use my adhesive of choice and clamp it between two flat plates. Don’t forget to use a parchment or wax paper between your work and the clamping plates or you might bond the whole thing together.

After laminating your aluminum to the backer and cutting them to shape, I think you should (and are planning) on coating the aluminum to protect it. I think you could just top coat it with lacquer or maybe polyurethane. Another option would be a CA finish. I have never tried it but I understand that you build up a thick layer of CA adhesive on the surface over many applications. After you build a thick and lumpy layer, you sand it flat and polish. There are many instructions on the web.

I have coated micarta scales using polyester resin (Bondo fiberglass and boat resin) by mixing the resin and brushing a thick layer onto the face of the scales. I elevate the scales off of the work surface by setting them on the rim of paper cups and lay on a heavy coat (some resin will drip off the sides). The resin is fluid enough to flow and “level” pretty well. I have gotten surfaces that are only slightly wavy and only required polishing after sanding the edges and back to remove the drips. If you want a perfectly flat surface, you can sand the faces flat through a progression of very high grits (1500 to 2000 grit) and polish.

If acetone removes the paint from the can, you could try something like Simple Green or one of the citrus cleaners, but I think you will have to get the aluminum very clean to make sure that the adhesives and resin stick.

Go have fun, experiment and report back with pictures.

Seraphim said:

Many printer inks run and turn into a sloppy mess when using CA. Also the color changes when wet. But it's worth a try.

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That's good to know. May have to try photo paper, the color laser printer at work, or maybe a different glue if ca makes the ink run.

I seriously doubt the acetone will eat the paint off of the can. It'll be easy to try though.

Putting it in the press and leaving it there for a few hours won't be a big deal. Get some glue and get over here.

jnyost said:

I seriously doubt the acetone will eat the paint off of the can. It'll be easy to try though.

Putting it in the press and leaving it there for a few hours won't be a big deal. Get some glue and get over here.

Click to expand...

Hmm it should be easy enough to check for cans, but I know acetone will eat away the paint off the gold dollar stamps real fast!

pmaster said:

Hmm it should be easy enough to check for cans, but I know acetone will eat away the paint off the gold dollar stamps real fast!

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I'm sure it does!

I use gallons of acetone every week in my Cerakote/DuraCoat/Hydrographics business. It is very strong and will eat a lot of things, but paint on an aluminum can is a lot stronger than you think. Now I could probably soak a can in my tank and it may eat it off, but I think it should easily hold up to a wipe-down.

I still think you should use something like this.

Environmental Technology 8-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish