Hi all,
I'm interested to find out what methods you guys use to thin down that huge spine on the GD's ?
Mark
I'm interested to find out what methods you guys use to thin down that huge spine on the GD's ?
Mark
Gold Dollar Spine
- Thread starter MarkO
- Start date
Nothing wrong with a big spine like that.
I haven't found an easy way with the dremel...it just takes patiences. I'm sure it'd go faster with a proper grinder or something.
If you're talking thining the sides of the spine to reduce the bevel angle, I believe you could just use some very low grit sand paper and sandwich the spine between your fingers and the sand paper and sand away...
If you're talking thining the sides of the spine to reduce the bevel angle, I believe you could just use some very low grit sand paper and sandwich the spine between your fingers and the sand paper and sand away...
I use a bench grinder with frequent strokes on a flat hone as a guide to keep the spine aligned with the edge.
Why don't folks grind down the thick spines on a Maestro Livi?
Because they don't have to.
Why dont they grind down the big spines on a Filarmonica?
Because they don't have to.
Etc, etc.....
Do it if you WANT to, but there is no NEED to do so.
Because they don't have to.
Why dont they grind down the big spines on a Filarmonica?
Because they don't have to.
Etc, etc.....
Do it if you WANT to, but there is no NEED to do so.
That's pretty
Why don't folks grind down the thick spines on a Maestro Livi?
Because they don't have to.
Why dont they grind down the big spines on a Filarmonica?
Because they don't have to.
Etc, etc.....
Do it if you WANT to, but there is no NEED to do so.
Personally, I was trying to ground flat the spine like on the livi you posted, to then do some spinework or possibly even a packwood-style kinda spine. I'm guessing the OP was just trying to find out what was the best tool to thin it to customize it as well?
In my case, the spine was laughably S shaped, did not lie flat on the film, and I wanted to experiment with a much more acute bevel angle, but your right, I didn't have to.
I was confused before any replies were made and still confused after seeing replies. I don't really understand the question but originally was gonna answer dmt coarse/fine
I thin them down for 1. Aesthetics: to match the design I'm carving the razor up for. and 2. make the proper bevel angle. If you take some calipers to a GD, you will find that they tend to be on the higher end, which can make for a harsher shave.
What I've been doing is scuffing it on a 325 DMT to check for flatness. (if necessary I'll work it on the DMT till its flat) Then, depending on how close it is to the angle I want I'll either take the dremel to it with a sanding wheel and then smooth it out on the DMT, or just work it on the DMT. (It's almost impossible to get anything straight/flat over any length with just a dremel, there are usually dips and waves left)
Though while I'm working it on the DMT for thinning purposes, I'll actually tape the blade edge so I'm not taking material off it as well.
What I've been doing is scuffing it on a 325 DMT to check for flatness. (if necessary I'll work it on the DMT till its flat) Then, depending on how close it is to the angle I want I'll either take the dremel to it with a sanding wheel and then smooth it out on the DMT, or just work it on the DMT. (It's almost impossible to get anything straight/flat over any length with just a dremel, there are usually dips and waves left)
Though while I'm working it on the DMT for thinning purposes, I'll actually tape the blade edge so I'm not taking material off it as well.
Fast and Dangerous
Belt sander and vise grips
Slow and safer
Blue diamond plate from Harbor Freight.
Belt sander and vise grips
Slow and safer
Blue diamond plate from Harbor Freight.
Very much like what I do except sub a bench grinder for the dremel. +1 on taping the edge through this operation.
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