Lord premium L6 seems too mild and takes too many passes to get BBS

I got avery mild and forgiven shave out of the lord premium L6 razor with Feather or Derby blades. smooth, with lesser irritation then before when I was using fusion razors.
Though I am very happy that my skin is slowly recovery, and is not hot after shaving anymore, I find it strange to have to make so many passes or patches to get to the smooth feel i want.

Does this mean that i should consider a different blade or different razor?
If Razor, then which one is a bit more agressive than the Lord Premium L6, but still mild and will not cause irritation.

Thank you, all

Merkur 33c classic is mild and from what I hear gives good shaves. Better yet, check out BST or ebay and see if you can score a nice Gillette Super Speed. Great razor. You could try an open comb like the Merkur 15c which is pretty mild but gives great shaves. Just a few suggestions.

ThomasB98908 said:

Merkur 33c classic is mild and from what I hear gives good shaves. Better yet, check out BST or ebay and see if you can score a nice Gillette Super Speed. Great razor. You could try an open comb like the Merkur 15c which is pretty mild but gives great shaves. Just a few suggestions.

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Thanks Thomas, I feel I should have to have something not so mild and a bit more agressive. are your suggestions here a good compromise

I also found the L6 to be too mild. Part of the problem for me was the handle, which is far too light.

There is such a thing as too mild. If your having to make multiple touch-up passes to achieve a decent shave, irritation usually results.

I find the distance between Feather's and Derby's to be about 1000 miles, so I'm somewhat bemused at that sentence. If your razor is too mild with a Feather you need a new razor. Anyway, you might consider an adjustable - just about any adjustable. It would give you a fair amount of control over how aggressive you wanted to go.

The Slim is popular and there are a lot of used Gillette Slims out there. Merkur makes several adjustable razors that are considerably more aggressive than the Slim.

Get a merkur hd.. It's like the more aggressive big brother of that.

musicman1951 said:

I find the distance between Feather's and Derby's to be about 1000 miles, so I'm somewhat bemused at that sentence. If your razor is too mild with a Feather you need a new razor. Anyway, you might consider an adjustable - just about any adjustable. It would give you a fair amount of control over how aggressive you wanted to go.

The Slim is popular and there are a lot of used Gillette Slims out there. Merkur makes several adjustable razors that are considerably more aggressive than the Slim.

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Being new to DE shaving, maybe i couldn't clearly identify the difference. Let me put in one Feather blade again and try the difference.

You're not going to see a ton of difference in aggressiveness going from a Lord L6 to Merkur head... their shape and geometry is nearly identical. Any aggressiveness you do gain from the Merkur will likely have more to do with handle weight than anything else.

You might want to consider a Parker or Cadet/Pearl 3-Piece for something a bit more aggressive along with a heavier handle... you can then mix-and-match with your Lord L6 head if you need to find something in between. With the Cadet/Pearl you can even use the Lord L6 top-cap with the more aggressive Cadet/Pearl bottom-plate (on both the safety bar and open comb versions). The "Lordet" frankenrazor is one of my favorites at the moment, especially the open comb. Using the Lord L6 top-cap also remedies the sloppy blade alignment (which is easy enough to correct if you pay attention when loading your blade) in the Cadet/Pearl razors, an added bonus.

Today I tried another available cheap razor (as it is available in this City). It was also Lord but the Tech head imitation (L5). I used the same blade (Durby) that I used yesterday with my Lord L6.
I found out that it took me almost the same efforts and passes and patches to achieve the result, though it is noticeable more aggressive.
It also left me again with more redness on the neck and few nicks (which was not the case with the L6). I finished the shave with L6 and felt it was far much more gentle and kind to my skin.
In general it takes me 5 minuties to do pass one, and almost 10 minuties patches. Is that maybe normal?

Any suggestions?

Keep in mind that some peoples skin just wont tolerate a bbs shave all the time. I, myslef, can go bbs on my cheeks and chin all day every day but my neck area is a whole different story. With that I normally do a wtg and an atg pass and call it good. I can go bbs on the neck area about twice a week tops but thats pushing it a bit. Others just settle for a dfs day in and day out as the discomfort just isnt worth the benifits of a bbs. This may NOT be true in your case but it's something to consider.
Good luck

sarois3 said:

In general it takes me 5 minuties to do pass one, and almost 10 minuties patches. Is that maybe normal?
Any suggestions?

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What exactly do you mean by "patches"??? Are you trying to do a 1 pass shave and then blade buffing the stubble thats left?

ThomasB98908 said:

What exactly do you mean by "patches"??? Are you trying to do a 1 pass shave and then blade buffing the stubble thats left?

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The ONE pass is a full shave WTG to my face.
by patches I mean going through the rough areas where i feel the stubble with my fingers and go ATG and XTG to get this particular area smoother.

I don't think the mildness of the L6 is causing you to need more passes. Multiple passes is pretty much the norm in the DE shaving world. I too use an L6 and use three passes regardless of the blade...WTG, XTG, and then ATG. After the ATG pass I then feel my face for any areas that need touching up.


sleepy

I agree -- the L6 tends to be a mild shaver. While all the options mentioned above are reasonable, you could also consider adding one or two shims to the L6. Of course YMMV, but for my face, the L6 +2 is a great performer.

Thanks everyone.
I will try in particular last advise from JRL

Try a 3 pass shave. Go first WTG, then XTG then ATG. I think you will find this works. THe idea is beard reduction not immediate beard removal. If I'm in a hurry, I will do a WTG followed by a ATG, then do my cleanup buffing and I can get a solid DFS (sometimes even a BBS) that way. Work On YOUR Technic.

How many passes are you actually doing? 3 passes is the norm some guys even do 4.

I recently purchased a couple of these out of curiousity and for PIFing. Tried one out today loaded with a Feather, and like sarois3 said it was extremely mild (to the point of removing very little if any hair). Also, it took a little effort to center the blade for even exposure on both sides, but nothing I haven't experienced with my other razors. I loosened the handle a 1/4 turn, which exposed more of the blade and made it more aggressive, and I got a great shave. If there is a next time, I will use a shim or two. I would recommend this razor for someone on a tight budget, but keep in mind, for a few more dollars you can get a proven performer like a Gillette New.

hdjj00 said:

I recently purchased a couple of these out of curiousity and for PIFing. Tried one out today loaded with a Feather, and like sarois3 said it was extremely mild (to the point of removing very little if any hair). Also, it took a little effort to center the blade for even exposure on both sides, but nothing I haven't experienced with my other razors. I loosened the handle a 1/4 turn, which exposed more of the blade and made it more aggressive, and I got a great shave. If there is a next time, I will use a shim or two. I would recommend this razor for someone on a tight budget, but keep in mind, for a few more dollars you can get a proven performer like a Gillette New.

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This is the first time I've heard a complaint on blade alignment in the L6... mine is on-par with my Merkur 20c and head-and-shoulders better than Pearls/Cadets (both OC and Safety-Bar) and Maggard. I use the top-cap from the L6 any time I used either of the Pearl/Cadet bottom plates as it eliminates the blade alignment issues immediately.

When did you buy your L6? I really hope it's not some change in production leading to sloppier tolerances.

nehpets4627 said:

This is the first time I've heard a complaint on blade alignment in the L6... mine is on-par with my Merkur 20c and head-and-shoulders better than Pearls/Cadets (both OC and Safety-Bar) and Maggard. I use the top-cap from the L6 any time I used either of the Pearl/Cadet bottom plates as it eliminates the blade alignment issues immediately.

When did you buy your L6? I really hope it's not some change in production leading to sloppier tolerances.

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I wouldn't call it a blade alignment issue, as this "issue" is present in most models of razors. There is just a small amount of play between the blade and the alignment posts. Out of the 50+ DE's that I own, i may have a handful where blade alignment is perfect (my vintage Red Tip and Emir slant come to mind) . To get it perfectly centered, I have to tighten the handle to where it is just contacting the bottom of the base plate, center the blade manually (eyeball it), then tighten the handle fully. As for the razor, its the one in the blue package, labeled LORD Premium LP.1822. Made in Egypt, UPC#6222001552799.