Against the grain tugging, shredding my face

Hi! I've been using a Merkur 180 with Proraso cream for a few months now. I started out with Merkur blades, but after a month or so I still couldn't go against the grain without significant tugging, painful "prickling" feeling, irritation, and bleeding. I switched to BIC blades several weeks ago, which I think made it a bit better, but going against the grain is still a gamble that I lose more often than not.

I'm pretty sure that my lathering is quite decent, and I've experimented with the full range of possible angles on my razor, from just barely touching my face to full-on perpendicular, with no luck. It doesn't matter how little pressure I use, it still happens. I can go with and across the grain just fine, but that can only get you so close.

My hair aren't particularly coarse or dense. I think the problem might be that they grow at a very extreme angle, but I don't really have a baseline to compare to (can't go around asking to feel other men's beards!).

Any suggestions on where I can start troubleshooting?

Thanks!

I used to have this problem and I thought that my beard was a bit tougher than the average beard. I had the problem for three years and actually learned to live with it. When I started using a straight razor I finished up with my DE and for some reason this last pass was just wonderful. What I found was that I for some reason held my DE in another angle than I used to. So I revisited the pictures on this page: http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Blade_Angle and had a look. I found that I had been using the wrong angle. Now my shaves are really good. No blood or anything. So maybe you can have a look at angle again.

I also find it helpful to (very, very lightly) stretch the skin a bit in my problem areas. Maybe stretching is the wrong word, it's more like holding the skin down, keeping it from being stretched by the razor, if you know what I mean?

EDIT: On the Wiki page, look under "More Pictures"

My suggestion was going to be use the lightest touch possible, but as I read further it seems you have tried that. And also angle.

It may be you just can't do against the grain.

Hm, I wonder if speed makes a difference? As in, quick short strokes, or slow long ones, etc?

Don't know. I think you might experiment. Change one thing at a time.

Do you need to do ATG? Or you just want to figure it out?

Atg?

Against The Grain

Ah. Well, I don't need to, but without going against the grain I end up with a pretty inconsistent shave, i.e. some spots are obviously stubblier than others. It's not a big deal, but I imagine there will be days when I want more consistency.

Angle would be #1, try moving your razor in different ways.

BUT, it's possible that your razor isn't aggressive enough. If the hair can't get in the gap between the blade and the safety bar, you end up pushing the hair up and tugging can/will occur.

Also... put the lather on fairly wet and give it a minute more to sit and soften the hairs. Try a soap instead of a cream, that might help, but again, make sure that you give is a good bunch of minutes to sit and soften things.

Lastly, the blades... try other brands, you'd be amazed at the difference in sharpness. Recommended: Astra Platinum

Thanks for all the suggestions!

Do you think trying an adjustable is worth it? Any brands/models you'd recommend?

If you've been doing this for a few months maybe get a pack of Feather blades with the Astras and see what works. I use Feather and it's a really different experience to the other blades I've tried. But try the blades before a new razor. I would suggest a Merkur Futur (I have my eye on one, but can't justify it). Or maybe a Vision.

Definitely try the sharper blades. Also, are you going ATG on the 2nd pass? try switching the order of your passes.

These days I try ATG after going with once and across twice (both ways).

I guess I'll try Feathers and Astra Platinums, then.

Hi martas, welcome to B&B!

I agree with the above posters. I'd look at these things (in this order) first:

1) Blade angle--it sounds like you still might be holding your razor at too steep an angle for optimum cutting. Try using the lowest possible angle that will still cut your whiskers. Small strokes will make it easier for you to maintain proper blade angle, so give those a try.

2) Pressure--I know that you probably think that you're not using any, but in order to shave ATG without irritation, try backing off EVEN MORE.

3) Overshaving--There's no need to go XTG twice and then try for an ATG pass afterwards. My daily shave is one pass WTG, and the next ATG. I'll sometimes add an XTG pass in, but when I do I'm VERY aware of angle and pressure. Sometimes, more shaving is not better shaving, and only results in irritation. Cut your passes back to 2 or 3 and see if that helps.

4) Blade choice--I'd agree with giving both the Astra SPs and Feathers a try, but think about adding Personna meds/labs to the mix as well.

5) Cold Water Shaving--Have you tried this? If not, it might be worth a shot, since CWS tends to tone down irritation for most shavers.

There are some folks who just can't make an ATG pass work for them. You might be one of those unlucky few, but I'm betting that if you make the above changes you'll be able to shave ATG--slowly and carefully--with success.

There's no need to start thinking about changing up your razor at this point. Most new shavers think that their irritation is caused by an equipment problem, but a skilled shaver will be able to get a close and comfortable shave from just about any razor, blade, soap, brush, etc. Go back to the basics, concentrate on proper technique, and you'll be amazed at how your shave will improve!

Let us know how it's going for you, happy shaves, and once again--WELCOME!

You have gotten some good advice, above.

First, have you mapped out your beard to determine which direction your beard grows. Go here and go down to passes to see how.

Here is what I do. First, on my face my first pass is WTG and then I go XTG in different directions. If I need to go ATG I then do that.

On my neck I do the same thing but omit the WTG pass since going WTG on my neck seems to do very little.

Usually irritation and nics are caused by too much pressure on the blade and/or improper blade angle. I am a big fan of adjustable razors and own quite a few. However, I can tell you an adjustable will not solve your problem. In fact, I don't recommend an adjustable to anyone until their shaving technique results in quality shaves.

Hi Martas,

I just want to say that I agree with those that recommended the Astra SPs. I'm only a couple of weeks into DE shaving and I've been working my way through a sample pack and the Astras are awesome.

ackvil said:

You have gotten some good advice, above.

First, have you mapped out your beard to determine which direction your beard grows. Go here and go down to passes to see how.

Here is what I do. First, on my face my first pass is WTG and then I go XTG in different directions. If I need to go ATG I then do that.

On my neck I do the same thing but omit the WTG pass since going WTG on my neck seems to do very little.

Usually irritation and nics are caused by too much pressure on the blade and/or improper blade angle. I am a big fan of adjustable razors and own quite a few. However, I can tell you an adjustable will not solve your problem. In fact, I don't recommend an adjustable to anyone until their shaving technique results in quality shaves.

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+1

I would suggest trying a few different brands of blades to see what works best for you. A few suggestions are Kai, Polsilver Super Iridium and Gillette Silver Blue. Chances are very good that one of these blades will end up being your go-to blade.

martas said:

Hi! I've been using a Merkur 180 with Proraso cream for a few months now. I started out with Merkur blades, but after a month or so I still couldn't go against the grain without significant tugging, painful "prickling" feeling, irritation, and bleeding. I switched to BIC blades several weeks ago, which I think made it a bit better, but going against the grain is still a gamble that I lose more often than not.

I'm pretty sure that my lathering is quite decent, and I've experimented with the full range of possible angles on my razor, from just barely touching my face to full-on perpendicular, with no luck. It doesn't matter how little pressure I use, it still happens. I can go with and across the grain just fine, but that can only get you so close.

My hair aren't particularly coarse or dense. I think the problem might be that they grow at a very extreme angle, but I don't really have a baseline to compare to (can't go around asking to feel other men's beards!).

Any suggestions on where I can start troubleshooting?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

After your cross the grain pass, try making an x shape pass. So instead of going straight up atg, you'd be going half between cross and atg. Then after that, either stop there or go against the grain next. I had horrible razor rash no matter what for the longest. Turns out even though I thought my technique was light and careful, I was applying too much pressure still. Give it a shot, and take it slow. Maybe buff it lightly too atg.