Unable to shave comfortably against the grain

my technique, blade, or face?

I've been wet shaving several weeks now, and am loving it. I get a very close shave going WTG and XTG, but every time (OK, 3 times now), I try to go ATG under my chin and neck (where my beard takes a very aggressive grain down), I get some pretty good razor burn.

I'm using a Progress and IP's. I'm using some soap puck I got from classicshaving (sorry, I forget which one, but it seems fine, and does a great job everywhere else).

Are some guys destined to not have a BBS shave if they have a heavy beard with a strong grain on soft skin?

Or should I try something else before I let myself be content with my typical 3 pass shave (which is still marvelous, but I'm greedy).

thanks for any thoughts.
Francis

I don't think I will ever be able to shave ATG. It just doesn't work for me.

DaveS

I find the same thing if I shave ATG on my upper lip so I shave sort of diagonally ATG - or partly ATG and partly XTG (if you see what I mean).

Anyway, just an idea. It works me, maybe it'll work for you.

Some things to think about:

• Read Kyle's sticky post about Pre-shave prep. It's essential if you are having troubles going against the grain.
• Check to make sure you have the direction of your hair growth properly mapped out (sounds like you do from your post).
• Changing the blade or the shaving soap/cream you are using could make a significant difference in your ability to go against the grain. Consider getting a blade sample pack and trying different blades.
• Two weeks isn't really all that long of a time for your face to get used to DE shaving and for you to master the strokes, angle, etc you need to properly handle the unique configuration of your face and beard. Getting against the grain may come to you in time. Some folks are just not able to do it. I think you might still have a little more experimentation and flight time before you write it off.
• If you are beating your face up trying to go against the grain take it easy for a few days to let your face recover (i learned the hard way ). Trying to shave a badly burned/bumped/cut face closely is not going to give you a comfortable experience or good results. Either don't shave at all or just go back to doing two with the grain passes for a day or two for some recovery.

Lastly, good luck and let us know how things are progressing!

francisb said:

my technique, blade, or face?

I've been wet shaving several weeks now, and am loving it. I get a very close shave going WTG and XTG, but every time (OK, 3 times now), I try to go ATG under my chin and neck (where my beard takes a very aggressive grain down), I get some pretty good razor burn.

I'm using a Progress and IP's. I'm using some soap puck I got from classicshaving (sorry, I forget which one, but it seems fine, and does a great job everywhere else).

Are some guys destined to not have a BBS shave if they have a heavy beard with a strong grain on soft skin?

Or should I try something else before I let myself be content with my typical 3 pass shave (which is still marvelous, but I'm greedy).

thanks for any thoughts.
Francis

Click to expand...

I have the same problem as you. No matter how hard I try with any kind of blade it's simply impossible to go ATG; impossible in the sense that my neck feels like it's on fire for about a day afterwards.

The hair on my neck grows W-E so I usually go W-E on the first pass, N-S on the second, and S-N on the third. It provides almost bbs but without leaving me feeling like I fought the lawnmower and lost. Maybe that's the way for you to go too. Of course, YMMV, IANAL, and all that other stuff that one says when giving potentially bad advice.

Since you're using an adjustible, you might consider turning it all the way down to the lowest setting and blade buffing with it. I can't really go ATG with my non-adjustibles unless it's the buffing type action, but when I do that, I get great BBS results.

When I started with a DE I claimed to never shave against the grain. in the ensuing months I have been flirting with it a bit now and then.

What Scoopster said and

I too use a Progress with IP's. I have found the following works for me with any of my soaps or creams. Make the WTG and XTG as you normally do without irritation. for ATG, I dial the Progress down to about 1.5, stretch the skin slightly and use a very light and short stroke and then reposition to keep the skin slightly taught. did I say VERY light? good luck.

Mike

I had a similar problem on a couple of spots on my neck and the buffing technique worked for me. It's still not quite bbs, but I think it's about as smooth as I'm going to get without mega razor burn or worse, and I doubt anyone would really notice but me, anyway. I tend to be my own worst critic, so I finally convinced myself to lighten up a little bit and just enjoy the shave.

Two items to add to some of the pearls above.

1. Try softening the angle on the pass - instead of going directly ATG, take a few degrees off, then go ATG on the next pass. That's the dastardly ploy that works for me.

2. I only have one adjustable, a Fat Boy, which I rarely use. But when I do I find I get best results by dialing down to around 3.5 or 4 for the first two (N-S & S-N) passes and open the blade to around 6 for the NATG and ATG passes.

The only time I have had burn or bumps on my neck was when I went ATG with the Fat Boy dialed down.

The usual disclaimers and whatnot apply. And good luck... I hope it all comes good.

Cheers

Jeremy

I've been at this for a year and in that time I have found that the only way I can go ATG under my jaw and chin is to do so after three passes. That is, I do a 4th pass ATG as a touch up pass. You've got to reduce stubble as much a possible before going ATG. That said, I don't go ATG on my neck. Just can't do it. So for me I accept not being BBS on my neck.

All,

Lots of good input, thx! A box of Derby's arrived, so I'll try those, along with some different creams (just got some Derby cream too).

I"ll also try the blade buffing idea, and possible j-hooking. If you read about a noob who bled out, well, at least I went out with a smile on my face

thx
Francis

I can shave ATG, but:

1. I reduce my beard first with one WTG pass, and two XTG passes (in opposite directions), and

2. I rinse my face and reapply preshave oil before the ATG pass, and

3. The only places I still can't shave ATG are my upper lip and chin.