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Portable Induction Cooktop, like Nuwave

OldSaw

The wife's investment
Hi Rich. I have one of the glass cook top ranges. A Samsung(yeah, I didn't know they made appliances either) we purchased 2-3 years ago. Speaking strictly to electric range tops I can say this. Open coil vs glass top; No comparison. Buy a glass top. They put all their research into these. The glass holds and distributes heat better than an open coil so in my opinion is more efficient in the sense it likely has to be on less to make the same cooking heat. IE; it cycles less which uses less wattage.

Electric vs gas. In my opinion, unless you are living in some oddball area natural gas is MUCH cheaper to operate than electric. I do notice an uptick in our electric bill at Christmastide when all the baking is going on. There are also other advantages to a gas range top. When you adjust the flame lower it lowers the heat instantly. With electric ranges, to include our glass top, you have to be much quicker on the trigger or you can overcook items. Many times when making things like curds, jams, custards, or other temperature dependent dishes you learn to perfect the remove-from-burner-quickly-so-you-don't-burn-it method of lowering temps. It is pita at times. I VASTLY prefer cooking on a gas range top. It is not an option in our home since the kitchen does not have a gas outlet in it. Conversely if you do not already have an electric outlet in our kitchen then you will have that expense as well. Most importantly, go with what the main cook wants. It makes for happier meals.


Cheers, Todd

Thanks Todd,

Hopefully we will have our gas range hooked up next week and I'm really looking forward to it.
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
Hi Rich. I have one of the glass cook top ranges. A Samsung(yeah, I didn't know they made appliances either) we purchased 2-3 years ago. Speaking strictly to electric range tops I can say this. Open coil vs glass top; No comparison. Buy a glass top. They put all their research into these. The glass holds and distributes heat better than an open coil so in my opinion is more efficient in the sense it likely has to be on less to make the same cooking heat. IE; it cycles less which uses less wattage.

Electric vs gas. In my opinion, unless you are living in some oddball area natural gas is MUCH cheaper to operate than electric. I do notice an uptick in our electric bill at Christmastide when all the baking is going on. There are also other advantages to a gas range top. When you adjust the flame lower it lowers the heat instantly. With electric ranges, to include our glass top, you have to be much quicker on the trigger or you can overcook items. Many times when making things like curds, jams, custards, or other temperature dependent dishes you learn to perfect the remove-from-burner-quickly-so-you-don't-burn-it method of lowering temps. It is pita at times. I VASTLY prefer cooking on a gas range top. It is not an option in our home since the kitchen does not have a gas outlet in it. Conversely if you do not already have an electric outlet in our kitchen then you will have that expense as well. Most importantly, go with what the main cook wants. It makes for happier meals.


Cheers, Todd

Gas vs induction, it's similar but gas works better. I had my induction stove top for 2 months now. It reacts very quickly, I lower the heat and I count 2-3 seconds before I see a change. Gas is now, induction takes 2-3 seconds, well, on my stovetop at least. The bottom line, it's pretty awesome, it mimics the gas and it's efficient.
 
Luc, that is great. I was speaking to the conventional glass top with element beneath it. Our commercial kitchens in the dormitories at work have the induction plates and while they work well, the initial purchases had a LOT of maintenance done on them. Sorry if I confused anyone with the glass vs gas talk. Your experience with the induction tops will make me take another look at that technology. Thanks.

Cheers, Todd
 

Alacrity59

Wanting for wisdom
Gas vs induction, it's similar but gas works better. I had my induction stove top for 2 months now. It reacts very quickly, I lower the heat and I count 2-3 seconds before I see a change. Gas is now, induction takes 2-3 seconds, well, on my stovetop at least. The bottom line, it's pretty awesome, it mimics the gas and it's efficient.

Wow that is quick. This is a game changer for me. Our cabinets are too close to our cook top for us to put in gas. Interesting!
 
Cool.

I'm assuming the induction stoves are 240v, and they have a conventional 240v convection oven?
I have 240v on my laundry cove, but I only have a 20a 120 outlet at the stove cove.

It's on the same wall with the service, I could run another circuit for it, but it would be a major PITA, and yes... gas is dirt cheap, especially with only the two of us using hot water.
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
Cool.

I'm assuming the induction stoves are 240v, and they have a conventional 240v convection oven?
I have 240v on my laundry cove, but I only have a 20a 120 outlet at the stove cove.

It's on the same wall with the service, I could run another circuit for it, but it would be a major PITA, and yes... gas is dirt cheap, especially with only the two of us using hot water.

The main thing that you got to be careful with induction is that you, sometimes, need more AMPS if you are running the stove on maximum. The one I got (a GE) runs on 40 AMPS which is "standard" in most homes. Some of them go up to 80 AMPS. There was a Viking that caught my eye but I decided against since it needed too much juice.
 
The main thing that you got to be careful with induction is that you, sometimes, need more AMPS if you are running the stove on maximum. The one I got (a GE) runs on 40 AMPS which is "standard" in most homes. Some of them go up to 80 AMPS. There was a Viking that caught my eye but I decided against since it needed too much juice.

That is a point that many do not consider with high current draw appliances like the induction cook tops and the new tankless electric water heaters that take two separate 40 amp circuits. Many homes, even ones built in the past ten years only have 200 amp main services that are not adequate to handle 2 large current draw appliances, HVAC, and other large appliances.
 
The 240v requirement is a deal breaker out of the gate, but if they need 40a, then it's definitely not going to be cheaper than gas (as mentioned above). My AC unit doesn't draw 40 amps, but of course, the cooktop won't be running for 6-8 hours a day.
Looking at a nice Maytag gas convection for $1100.
 
The 240v requirement is a deal breaker out of the gate, but if they need 40a, then it's definitely not going to be cheaper than gas (as mentioned above). My AC unit doesn't draw 40 amps, but of course, the cooktop won't be running for 6-8 hours a day.
Looking at a nice Maytag gas convection for $1100.

If I could point you in a different direction. Take a look at DCS. The two I have are the older ones with cast iron burners but other than that, the new ones are very similar. They are a little costly but it would be the last range you would buy. We have a 30" in our cabin and a 36" here. Call around. You might find a "scratch and dent". Like who cares if the side has a bonk in it if it is between cabinets?
 

OldSaw

The wife's investment
That is a point that many do not consider with high current draw appliances like the induction cook tops and the new tankless electric water heaters that take two separate 40 amp circuits. Many homes, even ones built in the past ten years only have 200 amp main services that are not adequate to handle 2 large current draw appliances, HVAC, and other large appliances.

200 amps is more than enough for nearly every household. There is no limit to the number of branch circuits, as they won't all be drawing max power all the time. I lived in a house with a 60 amp service for 10 years with an electric range, 3 refrigerators and 2 window air conditioners. I may have tripped a branch circuit from time to time, but never a main.

A 200 amp service could easily handle two 40 amp branch circuits, especially since the loads that they are serving are never going to draw the full 40 amps unless there is a failure. The 40 amp breaker is designed to protect the wire, not the device at the end of the wire. For many years, homes only had 60 amps and then 100 amps. Even 100 amps was enough for most homes with electric water heaters.

If a house has electric heat and lots of square footage, this could be a deal changer on the 200 amp service, but outside of that it is the unusual home that would need more than 200 amps.

If there is any doubt, consult a licensed electrician to properly advise you on what can be used, as you may be unnecessarily limiting yourself.
 
If I could point you in a different direction. Take a look at DCS. The two I have are the older ones with cast iron burners but other than that, the new ones are very similar. They are a little costly but it would be the last range you would buy. We have a 30" in our cabin and a 36" here. Call around. You might find a "scratch and dent". Like who cares if the side has a bonk in it if it is between cabinets?
Hmm... The 30" looks nice.
I like all of the controls on the front, and it's not a slide-in.... but SWMBO does not want stainless. She wants white, and I'm not sure our supply can handle that kind of BTU capacity.
Another concern for her is her grip strength... the large cast iron pan racks scare her and the Maytag is on the edge of being too heavy for her to handle for cleaning.

We've got a couple of dealers not far from here... will have to check them out.

Local dealers don't have pricing online... what's a ballpark for the 30" gas-only?
 
What do you mean that the heat "pulses more"?
Late reply, sorry. Because induction is either on or off and doesn't have residual heat to smooth out the transfer of energy you get a bit of a pulsating effect on the pan. This can be mitigated by using a heavier pan or having more than a quarter inch of liquid when steaming/boiling and generally isn't an issue. I only notice it when using my vintage vac pot coffee maker. Everything else works perfectly.
 
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