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First Straight arrived today. First shave tomorrow.

So, on to Shave 5. I skipped shaving yesterday, just because I could as opposed to for any particular reason - no client consultations or other work which required me to look anyway presentable.

This morning I carried out my usual routine - hot shower, Dermalogica pre-shave guard (really like this stuff), boiling water in the scuttle - see below; the water was too hot and had a negative effect on lather. Semogue Owners Club Two Ban brush and Edwin Jagger Aloe Vera (I changed from Proraso Green & White just to see.

On the cream front - I missed the minty eucalyptus scent and sensation of the Proraso, but the Edwin Jagger is still my favourite cream as regards how it performs during the shave.

As regards the actual shave, I went WTG both sides, swapping hands accordingly. This first pass went well. Still not as close on my left side as on my right, but I would go so far as to say both sides were at the least SAS, and very close to DFS. Moustache, chin & neck each side, no problems.

Relathered for second pass - WTG again. More focusing on practicing and refining my techniques really. Again, went very well. Certainly DFS both sides.

I made a small error next. When shaving with my DE, I would generally go 3 passes, with the 3rd ATG everywhere except moustache which I only ever do WTG and then XTG. My facial hair is very dense and grows quickly, and in the usual way there are a few tougher than the average places where the hair seems more wiry or resistant to beard reduction, and of course at the neck and throat it has the usual mixed grain pattern. A North South pass in other words will always be somewhat XTG or fully XTG in quite a few places. With the DE I would then go ATG for the third pass, and this gives me BBS everywhere - accepting that I don't try for that at the moustache, being happy to leave this at 2 WTG passes and a final XTG pass.

I replicated this with the straight this morning, i.e. after 2 North South or predominantly North South passes, I decided to try for an ATG pass. During the week I had been watching the usual experts on youtube - in particular I must join the legions of men who owe thanks to Geofatboy for his guidance - so as to pick up on the correct techniques for this and I felt confident I could attempt it.

I used my right hand for an ATG on the left side cheek/jawline - basically the extended side burn area where my stubble grows in a very predictable north south direction - and I encountered some pulling/dragging. Taking this very slowly however I completed the pass without irritation. I then used my left hand to the same area in the right and had the same experience. I wanted to try ATG first in areas where my stubble was very consistently grained in one direction.

I realised then that 2 WTG passes with the straight was not sufficient preparation/reduction for an ATG pass. I put this down to the difference in how the straight cuts versus the DE. I decided to go for another ATG pass in these areas, having relathered, and this time it was very smooth and comfortable.

I then relathered the neck/throat/chin etc. and did an XTG pass in these areas. I would not be fully happy that I got the right blade position in all areas, but taking things slowly I did manage reasonable contact, and no nicks/irritation. Relathering, I went for an ATG pass to these areas. Again I was not fully happy with my technique across the board, but on the throat to the front and each side I got a nice pass, and the same can be said for the chin.

I washed up, noting that there were still areas of stubble under the jaw when checked with wet fingers rubbing ATG, but these were quite limited. No nicks, no irritation, one very small weeper which emerged after the third pass but disappeared just as quickly on a cold water wash up. I didn't go for touch-ups as I felt I had put the razor across my face enough times for one day.

I then did my usual post-shave - alum block, Dermolica balm, Dermalogica 'Daily Defence' (ok its bloke moisturiser :D).

On the post shave I noticed that I had, annoyingly, missed a couple of stray hairs on my upper cheeks which grow outside of the main body of my beard, and similarly one or two on the margins of the beard in the throat area to the sides. These are the sort of things I usually pick up on my touch-up run, if I have missed them during the shave. I nipped them off quickly with no issues.

Sitting here as I type this, I rate the shave as firstly very enjoyable and secondly DFS all over with BBS in the extended sideburn and cheek area. So I am very pleased.

I believe I will be taking a day off from work tomorrow, so I may or may not shave. Either way when next I pick up the straight next, I will concentrate on getting a good quality XTG pass as the second pass, focusing more accurately on grain pattern than I would do with the DE, with which as I said a North South pass amounts to an 'almost' XTG pass in the difficult/mixed grain areas. I'll zero in and get an accurate XTG pass all over rather than the more casual second pass I did today.

I just want to say also how grateful I am for the advice and assistance I'm getting from passively reading threads in the forum and from responses to this thread - I do feel that I am progressing quite quickly and these information/feedback together with Geofatboy's tutorials no doubt has allowed me to do this.

Welcome to the club!! :thumbup:

ps - Nice Master!! I want one of those!!

Cheers - it is indeed a very nice tool. I don't have anything to compare it to as regards straight razors, but it feels very nicely balanced and clearly suits my shaving style & face, based on my progress so far.

I don't even bother with that. After my WTG straight, I use my DE ATG. BBS almost daily. OP: Bravo to you, sir!

Thank you :D For my first couple of shaves this is what I did - i.e. WTG pass with the straight and could go straight to ATG DE.

As I've described above, what I can't do with full comfort is go from WTG with the straight to ATG with the straight, which I found interesting.

One other comment. Boiling water in the scuttle might break down lanolin in your soap/cream. I read this somewhere (here I think) but have never personally experienced it since I use tap water as hot as it'll go in my scuttle.

I believe that boiling water in my scuttle did indeed cause a degradation to the lather today - I addressed it by adding water regularly but certainly the lather while initially very good (used Edwin Jagger Aloe Vera cream) became dry on the face quite quickly. I think hot water short of boiled is indeed better.

Cheers gents ! This is a very enjoyable journey.

 
For my scuttle, I fill it with the hottest tap water, and let it sit in a sink of the hottest tap water while getting other prep down and while the brush soaks. After the 10-15 mins or whatever, I empty the scuttle into the sink, refill it with the hottest tap water, and go with it. That seems to hit it into a good temp range for nice warm lather that isn't too much on the lather so it breaks down too fast. Obviously, this varies by your water heater setting. I can tell you mine is set hot enough that it is too hot (just) to hold my hand in the stream when full hot only is turned on in the faucet.

Hope that helps on the scuttle use, sounds like you are catching on fast and conquering the learning curve in pretty big steps.
 
^ Thank you :D I think that's a solid tip on the scuttle.

Today I used the straight again, seeking to replicate on shave 6 what I did on shave 5. The only change I made was to use Proraso Green & White. I really like the eucalyptus/mint and wanted to see if I could use it successfully, bearing in mind the improvement I found with the Edwin Jagger cream.

Unfortunately it was not as enjoyable a shave - still finishing with a DFS all over, but some dragging, a couple of weepers and a small bit of irritation on one cheek. Bearing in mind the shave I got with a pretty degraded lather yesterday (Edwin Jagger cream) I am inclined to put this down to the cream rather than anything else, so I believe I will chalk this down to experience and leave the Proraso out of the rotation.

Otherwise much as yesterday, with some further improvement on my part in learning how I can get the right angle with the blade on different parts of the face and in different directions.
 
Shave 7 today.

Used Taylor of Bond Street cream (the Lime 'flavour' in a tub). Otherwise same routine/products as for previous shaves.

- WTG pass went well except that I'm noticeably less close on the left side than I am on the right (this does comfort me that I havn't damaged the blade by bad stropping or what not i.e. its a technique thing.

- Did a XTG pass and that was pretty good too.

- ATG was again a little difficult but I think I cracked it on the cheeks and throat. Very difficult in other smaller areas.

I finished on the ATG as I figured my face had had enough. I gave myself just one cut, and it was really very stupid of my - while pondering an XTG pass to the left side moustache I let the blade rest on my face and when I looked again I had a wee slice (more of a nick).

On finishing I was a little frustrated - DFS in the vast majority of larger areas, even BBS on the extended sideburns. Patches of roughness on each cheek and under the jaw, which I can't as yet for the life of me work out how to resolve. These are always the areas I have to put most effort in to get BBS with my DE. With a DE I will scrub a bit, come over them from multiple XTG angles etc. to finish them off, and generally get BBS with no irritation or nicks. I just don't have the technique as yet with the straight to do this.

It being Saturday, I wasn't willing to let it rest there - I just felt like having a really close shave (partly as I probably won't shave tomorrow). So I took out my Fatboy, lathered up again and carried out a pass ATG. Mistake ! Forgot to look at the setting - it was at the closest possible, which I havn't used before. I got a nick just from that alone.

Then when I did my swipe with an alum block I really got the tingle, if not the sting, all over.

Finished with Dermalogica After Shave Balm (extra large helping) and the same brand moisturiser.

Face felt quite stiff afterwords, albeit no irritation per se. I think I put it through quite a lot this morning, so I'll give it a rest tomorrow.

Mini review/commentary on the Taylor cream - very easy lather, lovely scent, nice quality to it. I did not find it as slippery as the EJ cream I've used most frequently and I feel that when I next use the straight I will go back to EJ as I have had my best shaves at this early point with that cream. I wouldn't for a moment write the Taylor product out of the rotation and will certainly be using it with my DE in between straight shaves. Perhaps when my technique improves with the straight I will re-introduce it with this razor.
 

rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
60 shaves in and I'm still getting (mostly) minor nicks and such every few shaves. Now and then I have a brain fart and end up giving my co-workers something to chuckle about for a few days :blush:

Buffing with a DE really helps on the problem areas, but like you, I've found a few semi-rough areas which are there persistently when I use a straight. I don't worry about it as even with a DFS shave from a DE, I have 5 o'clock shadow right away and stubble by noon or 1pm. Most of my straight shaves are DFS in 90% of my face and CCS in the other 10%. I'm happy with that and I'm sure that that 10% will dwindle over time.

Sounds to me like you're on the normal learning curve and doing a fine job with it.
 
So an update that is not an update.

I havn't shaved with the straight since shave 7 on Saturday. I just havn't made time in the morning to work it into my routine - I'm already hitting the office around 7:15am 9 times out of 10 and using the straight generally adds twenty minutes to my already pretty extensive shave routine. Shaving in the evening is not an option at all in the context of my job, and in light of my heavy & fast growing stubble.

In other news, I ordered another shave ready straight from a very reputable source. I want to have a proper reference point for my current blade so I can evaluate when it has properly gone of the boil. I've also received a Norton 4k/8k and Naniwa 10k which I had on order in anticipation of learning to hone.
 
Shave 8 this morning went OK.

Went back to Edwin Jagger Aloe Vera cream - definitely the right cream for me with this razor. Otherwise prep as usual (shower, dermalogica pre-shave guard) and I usually load the Brush (Semogue Owner's Club 2 band) with a dab of EJ soap also, as I did today.

First pass WTG was fine both sides. Got the razor on at the right angle all over - very happy with the increase in dexterity on the part of my left hand. I did give myself a nick by foolishly shoving my chin against the blade as I turned my head - just lack of awareness of where I was holding the blade. Left me with a small line as a reminder. Not serious.

Second pass XTG continues to challenge. Sideburn and extended sideburn area goes fine, as does, interestingly moustache and chin both sides - interestingly as these would be generally tricky areas for me even with a DE. The cheeks and throat/under jawline areas are more difficult. I can still get the razor over everywhere but I'm not convinced that my precision is good enough.

Third pass ATG was basically adequate. It was good on sideburns, average on cheeks but the under jaw line area on my right side (always the area I have to touch up with a DE to go BBS) and margin of the beard on the throat on both sides don't come up particularly smooth after this pass.

Having completed 3 passes I would rate the shave as CCS all over and BBS on sideburns/extended side burns.

On reflection, I think my ATG pass is really more of a 'North South' pass where of course my stubble does not line up like this in the problem areas, which are cheeks and margins of the beard on the throat and right side under jaw line. I find it very hard to get a good angle on the last of these areas mentioned. On cheeks and margins I think it is just technique & precision.

Anyway, it being Saturday I did want to start the weekend with a really close shave so I relathered one last time and did an ATG pass with my DE (this morning it was a Merkur 39C Slant Bar). Very easy pass, took 2 minutes, and left me absolutely BBS all over). Indeed, I shaved with this DE yesterday (my third shave with the razor) and thought I had really cracked it and found its sweet spots. However it is clear that the 3 passes with the straight followed up with one ATG with the DE left me even smoother.

Finished off with the alum block as normal. Used Trumpers Lime skin food afterwards - new product to me - I quite liked it.

No real irritation - maybe a small bit on the left side throat at the margin of the beard. I think I shaved over this area without sufficient lather on one pass with the straight.

Anyway, I guess if I can rate the three pass shave with the straight as CCS all over that is good progress and I am happy with that. I must say I find it very difficult to envisage achieving the same results as I get with my DE in 3 passes with touch-ups but I decided I will not focus on that so early into my learning curve but simply be content to make small steps of progress with the straight. I am certainly enjoying the whole process.

I also found out that my second straight has shipped (its coming from whipped dog) so when that lands I'll be interested to see if my stropping technique or other issues have damaged the edge on the Dovo at all. I must confess that a couple of times in the early shave I found myself folding over the razor by not concentrating (just 2 or 3 laps before I woke myself up). I find the stropping however has definitely improved - its true what they say - you just sort of find yourself doing it 'right' over time.
 
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Today I held off on shaving until the evening. I didn't shower again, so instead washed my face very thoroughly using my usual scrub/exfoliator. Then I face-lathered with an Arko stick, left that sit while I stropped, then rinsed and applied Dermalogica pre-shave guard. For my cream I used a new to me Proraso - the Grey and White tube - and I added some natural Glycerine. Very nice lather.

Anyway, this shave went very nicely. 3 passes in the usual order and a couple of touch ups, and I would rate the entire shave as a genuine DFS with some pleasing BBS outcomes here and there. The worst patches are a one inch strip that's directly under my chin, and a line under my right hand side jawline that I just can't get tight on. I did however find a few more angles, especially in and around the chin and cheek areas, that really improved my outcome from the last couple of shaves.

So, I guess at Shave 9, this is pretty acceptable progress and I'm very pleased.

Post shave I swiped an alum block around and applied a Proraso balm (the grey and white green tea and oat one), and it was very nice. I love the Dermalogica balm but am looking for more cost-effective solutions and I think I will certainly persist with the Proraso over the next week as I believe I could live with it. I also applied Trumpers skin food (lime) - again I am looking for more cost-effective moisturisers than the Dermalogica I usually use. I like the tanginess of the Trumpers, and it matches well with the Proraso green tea/oat balm which is more or less odour neutral.

Again this week I will probably not have the opportunity to use the straight for complete shaves. I'm going to try and work it some mornings for the first pass and others for the final pass.
 
So something I've noticed in relation to the aftermath of a straight shave versus the DE is that about an hour later the shave from the straight will feel much smoother than it did immediately after applying my post shave stuff. I don't get this sensation from the DE.

Another comment I would make is that the closeness I get from a shave such as Shave 9 above, while not as tight to the face as a BBS with my current DE (Merkur slant bar), is actually more comfortable and feels more pleasant. If I could just make sure that I get the razor on all the little bristles I seem to have missed with the straight, I would take this shave outcome happily without any need to shave tighter.
 
My sight unseen and strop kit arrived from Larry at whipped dog. I actually skipped shaving this morning as I was still presentable after last nights effort so I'm going to take Larry's edge for a test drive this evening to compare how my Dovo has held up to my rookie maintenance efforts.
 
Shave 10 double digits woot.

I decided to shave late this evening, because I don't have much face to face stuff tomorrow evening so I can manage without shaving, probably. As planned I used the whipped dog sight unseen.

My first impression was that it might be carrying a sharper edge than my Doxo. In any event I got through the first two passes very well, no nicks/cuts/weepers then went for the ATG and that was ok today. It is however clear to me that I havn't got my skin stretching right on this pass.

After the ATG I was left with DFS over most of my face, BBS in the now usual places, and other than that I would say CCS except - strip directly under chin, right side under jawline, left side where beard meets chin. Also each side of my chin in the goatee area was pretty rough. I decided to push myself a little as I had the time and I ultimately got to a DFS/BBS all over, including BBS both sides of the chin which I'm pretty chuffed with. Granted, I did over shave - probably 7 or 8 passes to find the angle - and am left with some redness in the area, but no razor burn, which I take as a good reflection on technique, hardware and materials.

Aside from that I outright missed two very small spots on each side, where the beard ends on the throat - very frustrating.

I should have noted that for the last couple of passes around the chin I reverted to the Doxo just to compare the edge - in fact, its every bit as sharp as the new (to me) edge.

edit : just as I finish and look in the mirror I do actually have quite a lot of redness - I'm just as happy that I'm heading to bed as opposed to work ! Definitely a morning off from the shave tomorrow !
 
Ok so I can cover my weekend straight shaving in one post.

Shave 11 yesterday. Used the usual brush (Semogue 2 band owners club), went back to the Dovo Master's, lathered with Mikes Natural Soap (actually put some of the stick on, and loaded the brush from a puck too - very nice stuff). Proraso pre-shave (wheat and green tea - love this stuff).

Shave was not worse than CCS after the usual 3 passes, and considerably better in some places. However, annoying roughness below the jawline. I finished with a pass with my Merkur 29C slant and chalked it up as 'sort of ok'. I think post shave I used some Trumpers skin food and Proraso balm (wheat and green tea - I really like this stuff).

Shave 12, MUCH better - I would say best yet.

Changes from e.g. Shave 11 :-

1. Shave cream - went back to Edwin Jagger Aloe Vera. This has given me my best results over the last 10 shaves or so and yet again did not disappoint.

2. Had proper temp water in my scuttle (yesterday was too cold). I don't think this makes a huge amount of difference actually except to my tactile pleasures.

3. Applied the Proraso pre-shave and the end of the second passes.

Other than that I got a few angles better than before - on my cheeks, I am genuinely BBS. Not quite as close on the sideburns as with my DE but still calling it BBS. Did much better under the jawline - better stretching I think this time around. Everywhere else - DFS although I could not resist a very perfunctory pass with the DE on two places below the jawline. BIG progress for me was my chin - is also BBS :D I'm typing this about 8 hours post shave facegasming my chin :D This represents great progress for me.

So, from here on out, my firm decision is that I'm sticking with the Edwin Jagger cream when straight shaving.

A final thing for now which I think has improved the last couple of shaves is my new strop - from the rich mans set from whipped dog - its sufficiently wide that I can run the straight up and down without having to make that sort of X stroke and I think its let me improve my tension and technique accordingly.

I just need to get consistently good results down there below the jawline and I'll be on my way...
 
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