Shave_rat's Just another journal

So this was actually me second straight razor shave,close to the same results as the first one. Happy to report, still no nicks/cuts/weepers, and no real sign of burn, bumps, irritation. Guess I'm getting something right.

Razor is a Genco, made in Geneva, NY. I'm guessing 5/8 and half hollow, honed by Wid and given away in a PIF.

I worked on a wetter lather compared to my first straight shave, and seemed to have gotten that down better. I used a mix of KMF and Cella, bowl lathered with a 22mm bulb tip finest badger extra hair TGN knot set into a vintage Ever Ready 300 handle. I also used josh1970's homemade shave oil, reapplied once during the shave.

Went with 3 passes, mostly XTG, with a few places ATG at the end, where I've figured out the angle to comfortably and safely use the straight that way. I have a goatee and mustache, and the sharpened edge of the blade is pretty long, so there are some tight spaces going on in some areas, plus I'm not anywhere near ambidextrous enough yet to pull off much left handed strokes (I did manage a bit more this shave than my first one, at least, so there was improvement there). General result is overall SAS, with some patches of DFS and even BBS.

Currently stropping on denim, but that skill set isn't new to me, I always stropped my other various knives after hand sharpening them (having trouble tracking down the leather chunk I use, though, hence the denim). I don't have the setup to do anything as fine as a straight, however, so no honing for me, at least at this point.

Things to work on... angles, angles, angles. How to hold the blade in which hand to get it to shave in a controlled way, in the direction I want it to go in.

So, third shave on the straight. End result is a bit rougher than the first two. Couple little irritation spots on the outer edge of the hairline on my neck, and one tiny weeper on the other side of my neck (not sure how it happened even... slight catch I pushed through without noticing, maybe). Over all end result is better though.

I can't get truly ATG on my neck, since I can't figure out a way to get an East to West angled pass, I can almost get a diagonal stroke going somewhat against, on one side. The does leave it a pretty close shave, at least.

Left handed work is coming along decently as well. Overall I'm happy I'm getting through the learning curve with less stress (and blood) than some people run into.

I used a mix of Tabac and EveryMansJack brushless, seeing if I could get more glide feeling to the blade. I'm marking that one up as a no, it didn't seem to help. I didn't reapply the shave oil midway through, either. Considering the weeper and irritation spot this time, I will not skip that step again for a while till I get more proficient.

I had every intention of using one of my DE's this morning. Even had it out on the counter and ready to rock... next thing I know, the straight is in my hand instead, figuring "Well, 2 passes on the straight,and touch up to finish with the DE..". I'm guessing I'm not alone in that thought, and not alone in the shave not happening that way in the end.

Shave went smooth, smoother than before, so that's good. couple bump/irritation spots on the neck hairline, I'm going to have to really watch that area, even more so with the straight. Confidence is building along with comfort level, blade is still shaving fine, so the stropping on denim seems to be effective.

With the "use no pressure" stressed and restated so often when learning the DE's, the biggest tip I figured out is that stretching/tightening the skin is at the same level of import as "no pressure" when shaving with a straight. Seems if I do a good job at that, I don't have to figure out an ATG angle, the XTG will get it BBS.

I've also come to realize over all I'm just very right handed for shaving, and I'll have to simply accept that. Figuring out ways to angle and skin stretch while shaving right handed just feels more natural, takes less time to adjust to, and has the same or similar enough results, really.

Used an uberlather of Cella and KMF, served up with a well loved and broken in Semogue 830.

Good posts. Sounds like you are getting the nack of it. Even though I just started with the DE, my intention was always to get to the point that I could learn the skills to use a straight. Not sure I would use it every time but it would be nice to have the skill to use one if I wanted. Do you feel that you will use the straight exclusively, when you get it down? What's the enjoyment factor compared to the DE? ( once you get great with the straight )

I really don't see giving up my DE's, even once I get the straight down. The skills needed for DE are different enough compared to what is needed on the straight, I'm not even sure learning the DE helped a lot, other than the science to a good shave part, and learning what a light touch actually is.

Right now the two are very different experiences and enjoyment factors. The DE is just a lazy, relaxing, luxury sort of treatment to sit back and enjoy. The straight is a challenge to be conquered, and a feeling of accomplishment that I didn't need stitches, again. I can't see the straight ever getting to the point it's a lazy and relaxing thing. You have to be triple aware of the blade at all times, since even getting distracted with it not near your face can cause you to cut yourself or something else, or ding the edge, etc. Definitely not a day dreaming retreat into oneself time like a DE shave is for me.

That all said, they are both very enjoyable at this point, but will always be enjoyable differently.

sounds like you are doing fantastic bro!!!

and yes, skin stretching is vital - and I suspect like many you will find it improve your BBS shaves w a DE too.

and I am still practicing w my left hand - but too many years of right hand only shaving has me too comfortable with it - but I get a great shave using only my right - so you don't HAVE to be ambidextrous. just easier from what I hear if you start that way

Thanks, I'm figuring if I'm getting the results and it's more comfortable, why stress myself with left handed work? *shrug*

re ambidextrous shaving: they way I figure it's easier to do it now then 10-15 years from now - but don't beat yourself up if you don't pick it up. I've tried several times since realizing most do it that way, but I've given up - too ingrained to use only my right hand - and I just don't have the same blade control with my left hand.

you'll just look funny (like I do) reaching over head and doing all sorts of arm contortions to achieve the same ends that ambidextrous hands could do without LOL

but hey, you're still using a straight razor so I doubt anyone will be calling you out on it with a hard steel blade against your face! LMAO

Some of the contortions look funny no matter, but yeah, the only ones that would call you out are the special few that can still look all suave and cool while stretching and straight shaving. And well, I guess they'd have right to, but I doubt they would bother anyways. lol

I was running behind on my schedule so it was simply lather up some VDH luxury (I'd forgotten how much I like that soap), do 2 passes with minor touch up using my great grandfathers 40's SS and a personna blade, and fly.

The remarkable part is I did stretch the skin the way I started doing when using the straight, and dear gods, the difference is night and day compared to my old DE shaves, which I thought were getting pretty good. Just an effortless superlative shave today.

So generally speaking, a very successful shave. No bloodletting, *slight* bit of warmth on a few small spots, so there is still a little bit of a pressure issue happening once in a while, or too much going over a spot while buffing, before adding more lather.

Did a full 3 passes with the straight, but I caved and did touch up with the 34c DE. I just can't get close enough to DFS on my neck otherwise. The stubble grows horizontally all across the neck, so right to left. Due to that I can't get a truly ATG stroke, the most I can do is an XTG somewhat against the grain on one side, and an XTG mostly WTG on the other. Yes, I know, means I also need to work on the left handed use.

Due to the blade itself and the angles and such, I just really can't find a safe controlled way to get the blade to go ATG on most of that area. Means I may be using a DE for touchup, one ATG pass at the end, but ya know, I can live with that, if need be.

Software was half a pump of KMF onto the small remaining sample I have left of Tabac (more will be on the way though, so no fear), brought to a nice lather with the trusty Semo830. Love that boar brush with soaps. Finished off with Nivea sensitive ASB, splash of Captain's Choice Cat'O'Nine Tails, and a dash of Trumpers Spanish Leather just before heading out the door.

Wow, it's only been 6? There's no more nervousness or hesitation now, but that can be a bad thing. Getting too complacent with a razor on your throat. I'm going to have to make sure I stay very vigilant and not get too confident. I'm still getting a hair too much pressure I think, not enough to cause irritation, but just enough that it could be making the blade have less smooth glide than it could.

I received the vintage German 5/8 I picked up off the BST last week, so I used that this morning. Definitely like that blade more. The XTG strokes are getting better, or this razor does a better job for me, or both, since the one ATG pass I finish up with now using the 34c had a lot less to cut than yesterday on the touch up pass.

Still need to improve more on the skin stretching, taking a bit more time with that, as well as not increasing pressure on the blade, but making more light passes instead. I need to get into an efficient routine as well with the straight as far as "OK, first is a pass in this direction, next pass will be in that direction.." and so on. While I'm getting really great results (97% BBS, 3% DFS, no blood or irritation), I think I can eventually get there easier. Pretty sure as well that 3% or so that isn't BBS would be if I had the routine set so I don't miss a spot, and stretch the skin more effectively.

Here's my SOTD pic to honor the first shave on that straight...

So, I managed to slice a bit out of my upper cheek. Shaved a very small thin flap right off. Didn't bleed overly much, but annoying to have a red raw spot on my cheek, when I have a party to go to tonight. I was going to play it safe, use just a DE, changed my mind at the last minute. Guess I know better than to do that again. Happened on the first stroke of the first pass, so I barely finished up the first pass and gave up. Cleaned up the gear, treated the cut, and was done. Definitely will let that one heal well before hitting the straight again. lol

Figured while the cut heals, I'll stick to a DE razor. It's also a way more relaxing type shave, compared to the straights, at least for now. Nice hot shower, uberlather of KMF and Cella, great easy shave with out having to really focus or concentrate. Nice zen moment to get ready for a relaxing Sunday.

So the cut on the upper cheek was healed enough now, and being a Sunday with lots of time, seemed good to jump back onto the straight razor. I also got my TM practice strop in the mail yesterday, so I can do a good proper stropping now (soon as I find a good place to hang it, that is).

The straight shave today came out nice, little aggressive on my touch, but no bloodletting, just the AS splash let me know it wasn't the most comfortable shave I've managed. I still am sort of looking for the routine with the straight as far as angles to get the stroke in the direction I want, and which order to do which zone of my face in. I did 3 passes with the straight, then touch up with the DE.


It almost seems to make sense to lather and shave in quadrants than to lather the whole face up, makes skin stretching easier for the area I'm trying to shave.
Went with Cella and my Semogue 830, used the very wet brush method to lather. Got a much better lather for straight shaving that way, so I've gotten much better at straight shave lather, so that's a plus. I also picked up a nice big bath sponge to use for clearing the blade between passes, so plus to that. I wish I had a larger, more shallow sink in the bathroom, would be much easier for straight shaving.

I'm not sure if it was due to the straight shave yesterday being a bit rough on my skin, or if it was a lacking in the lather department (tried a new soap sample I was PIF'd, and it seemed sorta wet and slick, but also kind of foamy in the bowl), but after the first pass with the str8 it just didn't feel smooth, wanted to skip in places (great way to get cut for sure), and just wasn't comfortable. I lathered up best I could, grabbed my faithful 34c and did the second pass, it also didn't feel so smooth or great, so I tossed in the towel, sponge, and brush at that point. I'd gotten a 2 pass SAS, no blood loss, and I don't even have to shave at all for work, so stopping seemed the most prudent.

I'll give it a couple days to make sure my skin is ok to go with the straight again. Cold weather has hit here, so my skin could be having some changes as well affecting things.

one thing I noticed about using a straight, like with a DE but more important for glide/lubrication, the lather needs to be a bit wetter than usual.


glad to see you jumping back on the horse after your first bloodletting. it does happen, I'm tryign to learn the lesson repeatedly to never place edge on skin stationary, alwasy be moving the blade in the direction you plan to shave.

still make the mistake here and there. usually when i a rush... or when distracted (singing, etc)

joshua1970 said:

one thing I noticed about using a straight, like with a DE but more important for glide/lubrication, the lather needs to be a bit wetter than usual.


glad to see you jumping back on the horse after your first bloodletting. it does happen, I'm tryign to learn the lesson repeatedly to never place edge on skin stationary, alwasy be moving the blade in the direction you plan to shave.

still make the mistake here and there. usually when i a rush... or when distracted (singing, etc)

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I don't think singing while shaving with a straight is an advisable idea...

Shave_Rat said:

I don't think singing while shaving with a straight is an advisable idea...

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LMAO

can't argue with that!!

well I've always been a shower singer... and while I prep the shave I sometimes have the song stuck in my head. it's not like I'm dancing and actually singing, more like humming and just being overall distracted when putting blade to skin. Admittedly, it's still not a good idea by any means. lol

You shouldn't be distracted while straight razor shaving... I was distracted while straight razor shaving once.... once!