Techniques to painting numbers and letters

I’ve read a number of threads on B&B and a few other forums (not related to restoring brushes), but the advice given didn’t seem to work too well for me. I’ve tried MANY methods / techniques and what I’m using now were discovered through trial and error and has worked rather successfully.

Without a doubt, the deeper the branding stamps (letters and numbers) the better. When shallow. . . what a pain in the @#$ to get the paint to cover adequately!

When to apply the paint – before or after sanding/polishing? I’ve accomplished both and the acronym “YMMV” applies. My preference is to apply paint before I do any sanding / polishing. One simple reason. . . .sanding and or polishing the areas to be painted reduces the depth of the lettering. The branding stamps aren’t very deep.

NOTE: Each handle is different, in that the condition varies (i.e., scratches, nicks, and dings, as well as depth of said “usage marks.”). Preparing the painting surface is critical. Trying to remove paint from scratches, nicks, and dings can become time consuming and a royal pain. If there are scratches, nicks, and dings in or close to the area you’re trying to paint, I attempt to carefully sand them. And when I do sand, I use very high grit sandpaper – 1,500, 2,000, and 3,000.

I’ll use two of the brushes I restored as the examples and then provide an illustration of a handle I painted today, just to give you a better idea.


This marbleized green Ever-Ready 200 has deep stamps (on the upper portion of the handle) that were intact.





This black over ivory Ever-Ready 150 has a mix of deep and shallow stamps (on the upper portion and base of the handle).







As you can see on the Ever-Ready 150, the “E” and “y,” in “Ever-Ready,” didn’t come out as well as the other letters. On the Ever-Ready 150 base, the 150 model designator was deep, but the other letters were shallow.

THE PREP

The first step is to clean the handle thoroughly. Years of soap scum isn’t conducive to getting paint to stick. I use Dawn dishwashing soap and a toothbrush. Not once, but three or four times, depending on the condition of the handle. I dry the area completely and then accomplish a visual check to ensure it’s clean enough to proceed.

Some branding are void of paint or may have ruminants of paint. On the other hand, old soap scum may have built up over years of use and the areas not cleaned very well during the handle’s life. The second step involves running a wooden toothpick (the pointy end) in each letter / number. I found the round toothpicks work best – two pointed ends and won’t break easily. After the toothpick treatment, I again go over the area with Dawn dishwashing soap and a toothbrush.

The third and final cleaning is with alcohol and a Q-Tip. I’ve been using 70% Isopropyl alcohol. Once the alcohol has dried. . .it’s time to spread paint (I’ll explain the Flitz later).




NOTE: Once the area is clean, do not touch any part of the area to be painted with your fingers, as your fingers contain oil.

THE PAINT

FIRST APPLICATION

I use Testors Enamel paint and have several brushes handy

I apply two coats of paint and allow 24 hour dry time between applications. For this show and tell, I allowed 30 minutes between applications and let the handle bake in the sunlight.

Here’s the trick. . . .I use different lengths of a windshield wiper blade as a squeegee to remove the access paint.





I apply the paint thick – flooding each letter. You’ll know it’s thick enough when you can’t see the indentation of the letters/numbers in the paint.





In the first paint application, I move the piece of windshield wiper over the painted area from left to right.





As the first coat is drying, I clean the paint from the windshield wiper pieces and brush I used (I use Testors Thinner, since it came with the paint set, but any paint thinner will work).

When you squeegee the paint, you’re going to have some cleanup on the handle - streaks of excess paint. After 10 – 15 minutes, I remove the paint around the area I just painted. This is where the Flitz and a Q-Tip comes in.





Do not go over the lettering / numbers with the Flitz.

SECOND APPLICATION

Once the paint is dry, a second application of paint goes down.





With the first paint application, I move the piece of windshield wiper over the painted area from right to left.





As the second coat is drying, I clean the paint from the windshield wiper pieces and brush I used. Flitz and Q-tip at the ready.





Do not go over the lettering / numbers with the Flitz. I’m cleaning up the area surrounding the lettering / numbers.

THE RESULT

Once the paint is completely dried, I go over the entire area with a Q-Tip and Flitz.





I purposely chumped the “T” in “RUBBERSET.” Not a problem, as a little paint and a squeegee pass will take care of the voids.


I allow a full 24 hour dry time before sanding and polishing the painted areas. If you sand and polish after painting, use a light touch.


Finally, I want to explain a little more on the paint job of the Ever-Ready 150. I tried to paint the shallow lettering using the above method – paint and squeegee. The “150” took the paint like a champ, but this method didn’t work for the rest of the lettering. I used a Q-Tip and applied the paint (thinly) in a circular pattern. One application, let it dry, a little cleanup with a Q-Tip and Flitz, washed the base (remove any residual Flitz), and then a second application. As for the branding on the upper portion of the handle, I applied two more applications of paint before sanding and another two application after I finished sanding the handle – in an attempt to bring the “y” out.

As you can see, in the pictures of the Ever-Ready 150 above, sometimes you have to experiment.

Great tutorial! Thank you for documenting the process. Painting lettering is a frequent question here in the Restoration Forum and this will be an excellent reference.

Awesome info. Thank you!

Pure genius. Im still amazed on how easy and effective this is!

Great stuff!

Gigster, thank you for the great article.

Gigster, if you're still on the forum, I just want to let you know that almost three years after this great tutorial was posted it is still helping folks! I'm about to restore my first Ever-Ready and this thread was sent to me by a helpful forum member. I'm gonna use your methods and suggestions and I thank you very much for posting them!