It may well not translate to being noticeable at 30k. I actually said that three or four times above if you read it. And I've had convex honed blades from any number of professional sharpening companies, including a chef who honed all the kitchens knives by hand rather than paying a service... guy had been honing a few dozen knives every week for a decade or more. Skill aside, there's an obvious difference between convex and nonconvexed blades in cutting power that can't be written off as poor honing. Convexing on a single stage bevel isn't really an issue. That would be a sign of bad honing (rolling the spine up inadvertently during the arc is amateur and would more likely dull the blade than "accidentally" convex the edge)
Paco... an edge that is sharp isn't harsh and unpleasant to shave with (unless it has nicks in it or something). 8k isn't sharp enough for a pleasant shave for me either... no matter how many experts say it is. Sure it's USABLE... Hell I had a Carbo Razor hone that I guarantee you wasn't a point over 4k Mesh. People shaved off that crap... some people.
I actually think one of these days all those guys who swore that 8k shaves were perfectly fine are gonna do a big unified "Haha We TROLED U!" post and laugh at the people they got to shave with that godawful edge.
The last stone to touch the edge is all that matters if you hone enough on the last stone that you actually go below/beyond any point on the metal the previous stone touched. That's entirely possible, but I doubt most people do it (from the lap counts I see mentioned by most honers).
However the point Paco MAY have been making is that once I progress to my third stone from my second, my first stone no longer matters. And outside of some crazy 4 dimensional abstract edge artwork... that is true, unless I messed up my honing. If I do a three stone system and there's ANY immediate evidence (Pretty much anything other than bevel shape) of my first stone (1200grit DMT in my case) cuts on the edge... then sister... I done f'ed up!
Honing on a flexible surface may differ here, but I'll leave it to Seraphim to confirm or deny. Since (in case anyone didn't realize it) the whole idea of convexing from strop-honing is that you are removing the front of the edge and creating a bevel that is slightly shorter and steepens in an arc. This will for obvious reasons, erase the signs of previous hones much faster than traditional honing methods on the same abrasive would (which is a BIG part of why pasted strops are such fast/easy alternatives to let you jump from say a 8k Norton to leather rather than sticking a finer hone in there. Fast enough to completely erase them in a few passes? That's the question.
In my experience, my Jnat (even back in the day when I was new with 220grit DMT slurry instead of a tomo... and god knows how far off of my stones max I was) had every whisper of edge completely obliterated by balsa chromox between 10 and 15 passes (was I believe 8x3" balsa) with no pressure.



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