CCI quiet 22LR ammo

[Commander Quan]

On my trip to the store to pick up 2 boxes of the $3.00 22 shells A Sig P226 MK25 jumped into my cart. There wasn't any thing left over for an air rifle.

[Blue_2]

Very nice choice!

[Jim]

Now that's an errand!

[Commander Quan]

Yeah i had a weak moment, but the gun is sweeet.

[rearviewmirror]

I have the standard 226, and its a phenomenal gun. I picked a great gun as my first purchase, really killed any kind of AD.

[OkieStubble]

Has anyone gotten a chance to try out this ammunition? I've got a skunk problem I'd like to take care of with minimal disturbance.

I have used the quiet and Remington CBee loads. And while quiet, they won't cycle the action. I too had a skunk problem on my acreage that is in a surburban neighborhood. I find the CB loads are not quite adequate for the average shot distances I have been taking on skunks. I have removed 6 skunks so far this summer and the shortest distance was 10 yards. 5 of the 6 averaged 20 yards.

Unless on the rare occasion you corner a skunk somewhere, they really won't let you get closer than 20 yards long enough to get a good accurate head or other vital area shot. They don't sit still and are constantly on the move. It is diffcult to use a scope at night and they are nocturnal unless you come across a rabid one. So with open sights, in the dark the head shot and even vital lung/heart is a masterful shot indeed. I am a very good shot, but I am also a realist.

I find the regular CCI loads have a very low velocity compared to other 22lr brands and have an acceptable low noise level. Much like a small firecracker. It will still cycle the action of my Ruger 10/22, and have enough range and velocity to anchor the skunk if hit most anywhere. Most likely your shot will be after midnight as that is when they are forging for insects. And as long as you pace the distance of subsequent shots (no rapid fire) you shouldn't disturb anyone and nothing is reported.

[Commander Quan]

The gun is a bolt action 22 with a scope, so i'm not concerned with the inability to cycle, and the shot will probably be through the open 2nd floor window. I doubt the little stinker will even know what happened.

[OkieStubble]

Well, if you have enough outside light for your scope, your bolt action will be much more accurate than my semi. And if shooting from an inside window, the inside walls of the room from where your shooting should adequately 'baffle' the sound of the shot.

[NBT]

If I can make a recommendation. I have a Gamo Silent Stalker Whisper (in .177 but they make them in .22 also), I can pick off Squirrels in my back yard from my living room with the back door open. But it has the power & accuracy to take down skunks. Here's a video I found showing how well it works.

I must say that Gamo has revolutionized the air gun market and made them quite lethal...and quiet.
They have moved up a bit in the size of game taken with them... I would have told you no way a "pellet gun" could have done that...
Hunting with Gamo Hunter Extreme .177 cal.

[huntingdan]

On my trip to the store to pick up 2 boxes of the $3.00 22 shells A Sig P226 MK25 jumped into my cart. There wasn't any thing left over for an air rifle.

I love these types of shopping trips

[Deltaboy]

Aguliar Subsonic 60 grains work good too.

[nymtber]

I much prefer the Remington Cbee rounds over the CCI cb long. Which is rare for me (normally dont like remington rimfire ammo). At 25 yards off a bench with a 4x scope, the Cbee's will shoot 5 shots into 3/4" through my old glenfield 25 bolt action. CCI at that range are all over a piece of paper...

The remingtons are a little louder, but they hit much harder. For skunks...I would go with a full power .22lr and make darn sure shot placement is good...

[PFP_Dad]

I used these for some water mocassins when I lived across from a police department. They offer no report except the primer pop and if you keep the end of the barrel inside of the house you'll be fine. As for stopping power, unless they've changed them, I've had less than good luck with a raccoon. I ended up having to use a full power round but further examination showed good shot placement just a lack of penetration.

[Deltaboy]

I have a nice 1970 Mossberg single shot that is my intown critter getter.

[73mountaineer]

On my trip to the store to pick up 2 boxes of the $3.00 22 shells A Sig P226 MK25 jumped into my cart. There wasn't any thing left over for an air rifle.

[rob_NH]

I'm a rifle guy. Have a bunch of semi's and bolt action guns. No hand guns yet. This one is on the top of my list. Next summer is the summer of long range shooting (1000 yards), and maybe this winter is hand gun shooting.

[bvance554]

I have some powderless 22lr ammo. Out of a pistol, you think that it didn't even fire. Aguila maybe?

I went through a brick of of these. They were awesome and I need to buy more. My airgun makes more noise. But even at the advertised 500 fps they pack plenty of punch. I once killed two birds with one shot. I didn't even see the other bird behind it.

[Slash McCoy]

A plastic soda bottle makes a dandy one-use suppressor. YMMV on the accuracy, though. I have used one successfully out to about 20 yards. Can't use the iron sights, of course. Don't bother trying it with a revolver, though. You get as much noise from the cylinder gap as from the muzzle. Works great on a bolt action or pump action rifle, though. And I bet a single shot pistol like a Thompson Contender would work nicely with a 2-liter suppressor. I am thinking a break-open .410ga would be interesting to try with one.

Be advised, though... this is technically just as illegal as a more professionally built unlicensed suppressor.

[Slash McCoy]

Hmmm. I think I would feel bad about poisoning something. A quick head shot I could do (followed by turning them into a Davy Crockett style hat), but not poison.

Besides, I'm pretty sure they are a protected species. It sure is tempting though, at four in the morning when they are running around on the roof. They sound like elephants.

Possums protected? I doubt it. They are after all common enough to congregate on your roof.

Live traps are another option. Hav-A-Hart is one brand that is made commercially. Or put your boy scout knowledge to practical use and make one.

When I was a kid I had a turtle trap that worked great for me. It was just a 55 gallon drum with a door hinge bolted onto the rim. Holes near the bottom to sink it. A board was bolted to the hinge. Operation was simple. Set the trap in 3 feet of water next to a log or rock where turtles sun. Nail a chicken neck or fish head to the end of the board over the drum. Set the other end on the log, and smear some blood or juice from the bait in a trail down the board. Turtle smells, explores, crawls on board, sees bait, goes for it. His weight tips the board and dumps him into the barrel. Board returns to original position. Next turtle smells bait, sees bait, goes for it... until there are no more turtles or the barrel is full or I remove it. A similar trap could be made with a smaller barrel for your roof, but without the holes. You might have to cut it down so the little fellas don't have to climb so far to get in the trap. First possum smells bait, goes for it, disappears, trap resets for the next one.

"Hey, where's Fred?"

"I dunno... he said he smelled something good to eat, started walking up that board, and now he's gone."

"That greedy #$%&!@... won't share, huh? I'm going up there to see what he got..."

Once trapped, you can drown, shoot, electrocute, asphyxiate, or release them far far away, or give them to someone who needs to feed his boa constrictor, whatever blows your skirt up.

[JaggerDragger]

Subsonic rounds are awesome I have not used CCI's but I have the remington subsonic and they still make noise but lack that real loud crack.

I would recommend trapping and drowning skunks. When you shoot them they release their stink all over. I shot one last year and I could still smell it on the lawn this spring.

You can make a live trap from plywood:

Make a sure-fire live trap
By Charles Sanders
Every now and then, wild critters wear out their welcome around the homeplace. Gardens are raided, garbage cans ransacked, pet food filched, and other shenanigans are performed by marauding little beasties. When push comes to shove, it becomes time for a furbearer relocation project.
Although many states permit the killing of wild animals when they are destroying gardens, chickens, or other property, I hesitate to do so outside of the legal hunting or trapping season. It just seems like a waste. Sometimes, however, pestiferous pilferers need to be taken care of during the spring or summer months. Then, I break out the trusty livetrap and get to work. In fact, if you live near a town of any size at all, you can make some good money by livetrapping and relocating wild animal pests. Be sure to consult with your local fish and wildlife management agency before you undertake this endeavor because regulations vary widely across the country.
I have had to move many animals here on our place. Most of them were raccoons that took a liking to the cat’s food, the mulch pile, and the tastiest parts of the garden. We relocated one family of the masked varmints by catching them, one each night for about a week. They were so eager to get caught that they climbed right up in the back of the pickup truck to get to the peanut butter and marshmallows that I had placed in the livetrap there.
The trap described here is simple to make. As with many of my workshop projects, I just used what I had available to do the job. You may wish to adjust the size of the trap you make to fit the target animal you are trying to catch. Here is an idea of appropriate sizes:
▪ Raccoon — 12" x 12" x 36"
▪ Opossum — 10" x 10" x 32"
▪ Skunk — 10" x 10" x 32"
▪ Cottontails — 8" x 8" x 28"
The accompanying photograph and drawing show various details of the livetrap construction. Some of the specific parts for this rabbit-sized trap are listed below:
▪ 3 1" x 8" x 28" boards
▪ 1 1" x 8" x 24" board
▪ 7½" x 9" piece of ½" hardware cloth
▪ 12 light wire staples
▪ 24 #6 x 15/8" multi-screws
▪ about 4 ft. of ¾" square wooden stock
▪ about 3 ft. of ½" square wooden stock
▪ 1 pc. of ½" x 12"-square wooden stock
▪ string
The trigger for this trap is simplicity in itself. In a nutshell, the notched trigger stick is held in place in the hole in the top of the trap. When the animal tries to reach the bait, it must push past the trigger stick, releasing it and causing the door to drop behind it.
The trigger stick is made from the piece of ½-inch stock. It has a notch cut into it that is hooked on the edge of the hole to set the trap. The notch is about as deep as one half the stick’s thickness. Cut the notch a bit longer than the thickness of the top. That will give it plenty of room to get knocked loose.
As you can also see, the trap door is held in place by the lever stick which is made from the ½-inch stock. The lever stick is supported by a notched stick about 9 inches long which is made from the ¾-inch wooden stock. I rounded the bottom corners of the support stick and secured it in a blind hole bored into the top of the trap.
The sides of the trap have cleats attached to provide a groove of sorts that the trap door slides in. Those cleats are also made from the ¾-inch stock. The trap door has a light wire staple in the center of the top. A piece of stout string attaches the door to the end of the lever stick. On the other end of the lever stick, another piece of string is threaded through a small hole drilled through the trigger stick.
I attached a wire mesh back panel in the trap to aid in distribution of the scent of the bait. The stout hardware cloth is necessary to prevent determined detainees from busting out.
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