Can I use oil with wet/dry sandpaper?

**jred** · 07-21-2012, 01:26 PM

I started with water, but had problems with flashing if I took a 5 minute break (dang south & humidity).
I have some sharpening stone oil for Ark stones, and was thinking about using that. I know some people use wd40, but I don't want it to stink so bad.

Currently on 220 trying to get some stubborn spots out.

**jred** · 07-21-2012, 01:46 PM

Ok, I tried to take pics, but it's too dark for no flash, and too reflective for flash.

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**Legion** · 07-21-2012, 03:42 PM

Yes, I think Mdunn? has been recommending oil and wet/dry for a log time.

**smalltank** · 07-21-2012, 04:17 PM

I go as low as 180..my lowest that I have to REALLY get the deep stuff out..definitely helps

**ladykate** · 07-21-2012, 05:23 PM

Originally Posted by jred

I know some people use wd40, but I don't want it to stink so bad.

There are some odorless oils out there. Even mineral oil would work. I use turbine oil (available at ACE in my area) which is cheap and odorless and does the job well.

**Alum of Potash** · 07-21-2012, 05:40 PM

You could try the Norton "food-safe" honing oil. A bit lighter than USP mineral oil. Also, if you get tired of the tube you are using, a cut off piece of PVC piping works very well.

**jred** · 07-21-2012, 06:06 PM

By tube you mean the promotional chapstick? What kind of company gives out promotional chapstick? Oh yeah, the one I work for :)

This oil seems to be doing ok, but I might pick up some mineral oil, anyway. Thanks! Once I get finished & it's all nice & shiny I'll post more pics.

**Krodor** · 07-22-2012, 08:09 AM

Yup. Oil and sandpaper is a good mix. Once I hit 1000 grit and from then on, I've been using Flitz instead. I figure I'd get a little chemimechanical thang going. I don't know that it helps though, just makes me feel like I'm being all cool.

**skipnord** · 07-22-2012, 10:50 AM

WD40 also works.

**mdunn** · 07-23-2012, 12:56 AM

Originally Posted by skipnord

WD40 also works.

This. Use it every time.

**fast14riot** · 08-05-2012, 11:02 PM

Windex or water with a drop or two of dish soap helps the paper cut faster but a light oil will give a better satin finish. I use 5W-20 synthetic. I usually finish my knives at 600# and hand rubbed with oil.

-Xander

**Kentos** · 08-05-2012, 11:54 PM

Someone suggested kerosine once. I think.

**Legion** · 08-06-2012, 01:53 AM

Originally Posted by Kentos

Someone suggested kerosine once. I think.

That will be nice on your hands after a day of work. Do it when SWMBO is on holiday.

Actually, I just thought of something useful to say (hey, even a stopped clock is right twice a day).

For you guys using oil, WD40 or watever, do it over your expensive carpet. Carpet can be replaced, but the razor, when it slips from your hands onto a hard floor because of the oil, cannot be.

**UKRob** · 08-14-2012, 06:08 AM

I tried WD40 but just preferred the feel of wet paper and the end result. I'm not sure what you mean by flashing - but I always leave the paper in water if I take a break.

**jred** · 08-14-2012, 07:58 AM

It wasn't the paper I had problems with, it was the blade, flash rusting if I set it down for 5 minutes.

Using the oil has been working well. There's a few stubborn spots I'm trying to convince myself to leave as character. I probably should have gone down a grit to 150, but I'm as stubborn as the spots :)

**purplehero** · 08-15-2012, 11:06 PM

Use windex (or generic window cleaner), dilute ammonia (same as windex), or mix some baking soda and dish soap into your water to prevent the rust while sanding. You may find it better to use the thinner lubricant once you get to the higher grits.